Thursday, August 14, 2014

Mistair: Full Airbrush Makeup Bridal Video and in depth review

Bridal Airbrush Makeup with Mistair
We first got to know Mistair a couple of years ago at Cosmoprof in Italy, and we were impressed by the range of airbrush products offered by this pioneering British brand. From polymer based nail colours to an extensive self tanning line, and from amazingly pigmented body art palettes to hair highlights, you can satisfy almost any beauty need with this company's catalogue.

Bridal Airbrush Makeup with Mistair
As far as beauty makeup is concerned, Mistair offers a silicone based line with 14 foundation colours, 9 blushes, 8 highlighters and shimmers, 11 adjusters and correctors and 7 eyebrow shades. This is an excellent variety of colours which make Mistair comparable to any of the big US based companies, and a very valid contender in any pro kit. Directed exclusively at professionals, the silicone based beauty range features delicate and blendable colours that can be applied with very subtle and natural results, or built up to bolder shades thanks to the extensive range of colour correctors.  After experimenting with them for a while, I found these colours particularly ideal for bridal makeup, and I decided to use them to film the brand new tutorial posted below. I also thought of swatching the colours from the Blusher and Shimmer packs, hoping that they will give you an idea of what the colours look like when sprayed. Please notice: each swatch is made up of 3-4 drops of product airbrushed in very small patches, so keep in mind that the intensity of the colours is maxed out, at least in some cases. Please scroll to the bottom of this page to view pictures of the swatches. As always you can click on each photo to enlarge it. 

100% unretouched screen shot
The texture of these liquids is quite luxurious, and they are atomised well at a medium pressure of 6 to 12 PSI, as is to be expected of a silicone based product. I only encountered a problem with one shimmer colour (the otherwise delightful S03 Cornsilk) which would inevitably clog my airbrush, but perhaps I just got a quirky batch that I am sure would be swiftly replaced by Mistair's customer care. The liquids have a very pleasant and delicate scent that will dissolve almost immediately leaving no aftertaste whatsoever. They offer excellent coverage and very good wear, and they are of course water proof. One negative aspect that I found (and that is common to many other brands, unfortunately) is the effectiveness of the sampler size (starter kit) bottles, which could be greatly improved by making them more air tight, thus preventing the aqueous part of the solutions from evaporating after only a few months.            
100% unretouched screen shot
As for the equipment, Mistair has partnered with the best manufacturers of professional airbrushing equipment and is offering a very slick looking SL1000 airbrush that allows you to quickly switch nozzle and needles to obtain up to 3 different output sizes (.2, .4 and .6 mm) for different paint jobs. The "floating" nozzles of this airbrush are also easier to clean, as they are disassembled much more quickly than traditional airbrushes. 
100% unretouched screen shot
This double action airbrush  also features two easy to switch cups, allowing less refilling for bigger jobs. For beginners or budget minded customers, Mistair also offer the excellent MA 35 airbrush, which is the same great tool also offered by the best airbrushing brands under slightly different names. Mistair's original, proprietary website that was dedicated exclusively to the airbrushing line has been closed for the time being, but while we wait for its return we can browse all the products and prices on the website of Skin By Sterex, the larger beauty brand of which Mistair is a division. I look forward to meeting Mistair's great team at Cosmoprof 2015!



Mistair Blushers Airbrushed Swatches
Mistair Blushers Airbrushed Swatches
Mistair Shimmers Airbrushed Swatches

Mistair Shimmers Airbrushed Swatches

Thursday, August 7, 2014

Airbrush Makeup Review: Kett .25 Transformer Airbrush


Kett's .25 Transformer Airbrush
Having a reliable airbrush is a fundamental prerequisite for any makeup artist who wants to add airbrush makeup to their skills. Actually, it is indispensable for anyone who is dabbling in this art even if only for personal use, as there is nothing more frustrating than a clogging airbrush preventing you from enjoying the wonderful results that the technique allows. If you are approaching airbrush makeup for the first time and you are thinking of building your own pro kit, or if you have bought a kit for personal use from one of several consumer oriented brands and the included airbrush is starting to "act up" on you, you may be confused as to what to choose from the relatively wide range of tools available from different outlets. You might have read about the double action versus "single action" (or rather continuous airflow) diatribe, and you might be wondering if you should go for a low cost or of for a top of the range instrument.  Well, the answer to all your doubts is happily at hand and it is called Kett .25, a.k.a. the Transformer Airbrush. 

Kett's .25 Transformer Airbrush unboxed
If you have read these pages -or indeed if you have researched airbrush makeup at all- you know that Kett is one of the best brands out there, with a tradition of innovation and commitment to the highest standards for High Definition makeup. The Transformer is perfectly in line with these standards. It is manufactured especially for Kett by Sparmax, the Taiwanese company supplying excellent airbrushes to the best makeup brands. The package assembled for Kett includes a stylish and useful box, a set of indispensable quality pipe cleaners (which are almost always sold separately and for a steep price by other companies), a nozzle wrench, a "plug in" hose connector and most importantly a spare double action valve, that you can easily switch with the already assembled "single action" valve to take advantage of this mode. The presence of both valves is what gives this airbrush its "Transformer" nick name, and it is a huge commodity. The .25 part of the name refers of course to the nozzle size, which is ideal for finer, more detailed work (although of course you can easily cover larger areas too). Another thing we greatly appreciate is the very honest pricing for this set, which considering all the accessories actually turns out to be cheaper at Kett than its general release version. 

And now for some impressions deriving directly from my experience. Please be sure to read our disclaimer in our About Me page. You've been warned. Let's go: I love this airbrush. I have used this little workhorse for just about any kind of makeup for over two years, with absolutely no major problems. It almost never clogs, and when it does, inevitably due to shimmers, it is quickly cleaned and back in action in a very short time. While it was chosen by Kett for its own highly praised water based makeup, I have also used it with silicone based formulas with no problems. Of course it is preferable to use larger nozzle sizes with silicone (such as the other airbrush offered by Kett, the also excellent .4), but in a pinch this will more than do. Moreover, thanks to its standard 1/8 ' fitting and its plug in connector it is absolutely compatible with any compressor that works within makeup's PSI range of 2 to 30 PSI. Yes, that includes consumer brands. I used it for years with my Dinair compressor, and it changed my whole experience of that brand for the better.
So, I most definitely recommend this both as part of your pro kit and for home use. You can buy it through the Kett website, or at any kett retailer. If you live outside the US I would strongly recommend buying this at Camera Ready Cosmetics, who will ship it worldwide for the best and most honest price. 

My little Workhorse: the Kett .25 Transformer Airbrush
A while ago Kett released this video, where the fab Sheila McKenna shows the airbrush in detail:




Wednesday, June 18, 2014

Airbrush Makeup Guru Profiles: an interview with Dani Fonseca

Our Profile series continues with the amazingly talented Dani Fonseca! Please click on each image to see every amazing makeup in full size.

Amazingly talented: Dani Fonseca
One of the reasons why I decided to go to the New York Makeup Show on its first day rather than the second was so I could attend Dani Fonseca's seminar "Airbrushing Beyond Foundation". Like many other airbrush fans around the world, I had become familiar with Dani's work thanks to the many videos she has starred in for the wonderful brand Temptu Pro, so I was excited to meet her in person. Dani has a very impressive list of credits, including one that is actually listed among Temptu's own highlights timeline: the iconic skeleton makeup on Lady Gaga for her Born This Way video. Dani also regularly collaborates with some of the world's top brands, and she is a proud member of the Make Up For Ever Artist Alliance Team. She has her own body art and event production company (The Body of Art) and she creates incredible Halloween looks in seasonal workshop called the Monster Mash Salon. In spite of her very busy schedule that day, Dani took time to answer a questions from the many people who filled out her seminar, and kindly agreed to answer a few questions focusing on airbrushing for our readers.

You are so incredibly talented with airbrushing. When did you decide to add this technique to your makeup skills?
-I started considering using airbrush techniques in 2004 when I started my company The Body of Art. As most may know, body painting can take an extremely long amount of time to complete, so I thought airbrushing would help make that process faster. I chose Temptu almost 10 years ago as the brand to explore this new possibility and not only fell in love with the possibilities for my body art but also discovered an amazing new way to do my beauty makeup.

How important do you think airbrushing skills are for new makeup artists, what doors do you think it could open for them?
Makeup by Dani Fonseca
-I think that airbrushing is an amazing tool. I stand by the belief that every makeup artist should of course learn how to do everything conventionally first, however airbrushing is an extension of what you can do with more ease precision and expedience. I do believe that most artists would be missing out if they did not know the advantages of airbrushing, however there are many make up artists out there who know how to airbrush and still choose conventional which is perfectly fine. Everyone has their own style and choice of technique. However what sometimes concerns me is that people will not try airbrushing because of the myths they have heard out there about it. I say to those people take a class and try it out before you shun it completely, because you may be pleasantly surprised and wondering what you have been doing all your life without it.

Body Art by Dani Fonseca
What do you consider to be the single best advantage of airbrushing as opposed to traditional application?
-The best advantage to using airbrush depends on what formula you use and what kind of makeup you are using it for.  As for beauty, I have always been a big fan of the silicone-based make up like Temptu's SB formula. It mimics skin in such a way that you can barely tell anyone is wearing foundation yet creates beautiful highlighting and con touring with ease, in a way that doesn't look overworked. Not to mention that it is water resistant and flexible so will not crack or run under adverse environmental conditions. As for body painting, as I mentioned before airbrushing helps me to do things precisely and much faster. Highlighting and contouring faux fabric or objects that I've created as an illusion on the skin is so effortless with an airbrush because of the gradient quality it gives with such ease. It takes a lot of practice to hold your hands still and create strokes that look clean but it's just like riding a bike: you just need to do it over and over again until you get it.

I always admired your makeup, but now, seeing you up close, I can see how incredibly flawless it really is. How much airbrushing do you like to include in your own routine?
-To be honest I used to airbrush my skin quite a bit however I find there is less and less room on my kitchen table which is actually my make up vanity. A little bit too much for me (and my husband) to have an extra machine sitting out all the time. Airbrushing has actually taught me how to apply makeup to myself with the "airbrushed look" technique using certain synthetic brushes conventionally. I think I've mastered it at this stage. I'm a big fan of cream make up whether it be foundations or blushes for highlighters so that ends up being my alternative to airbrush makeup. However I still do use it when I'm going to big events.

In Europe, where we are based, airbrushing is still a very new technique and like many new things some false myths are often quick to spread. Which would you consider to be the greatest misconception about airbrushing today?
"The Kiss" by Dani Fonseca
-I think we can attribute all the false myths to the type of airbrush makeup that first came out on the market in the 90s. It was very dry and matte, and if you put 1 drop of water near it it would completely destroy it. Not to mention if you put too much on and your face moved it would crack. There have been so many amazing advancements in airbrush makeup products since then. If you are buying a water based make up today, like from Kett Cosmetics, you will find that it's very beautiful and flexible.  Another myth that I have come across is that if you use a silicone-based airbrush makeup it looks like oil or grease on the face. This is because silicone-based makeup happens to be one of the thicker formulas on the market. It's purposely thicker so that it can do what it does. Some people have compressors that are not powerful enough, and often think they need to dilute the product in order to get it to pass through the airbrush gun. Again if they have not sat in a class, people often think that they can dilute such a product using its very greasy cleanser,  which is the cause of the oily pay off people hear about. I cringe when I see or hear of people using the product like that.  If you use the SB make up from Temptu properly and with its proper equipment it is one of the most beautiful foundations on the market made for all skin types and meant to last for hours. Why on earth would you not want to use that in your make up? One last myth I've come across is that it is too hard to clean your gun and you will often get clogging issues. Again you need to not be lazy and take the time to clean your gun properly. If you do not know how to do this yet again there are plenty of videos online as well as classes you can take that will help you to learn how to properly service your own equipment.

Makeup by Dani Fonseca
When it comes to airbrush makeup there seems to be a big a lot of disagreement over the water based versus silicone based formulas. Where do you stand? Do you prefer using one over the other?
-Anyone who knows me knows that I am a huge fan of silicone-based make up. I've been using it for 10 years and has very rarely found any issues with it. It mimics skin, it lasts for hours, it's lightweight and flawless and is very flexible on the skin.  Every student that takes my classes falls in love with it instantly because they taught how to use it properly. It's just a personal preference for me. It doesn't mean that I do not think a water-based formula is good. There are amazing water-based formulas on the market, and they're absolutely dreadful water base and silicone formulas on the market. You need to go to trade shows to test them out and/or do your research to find the people who are actually using the formulas and see what they say. Be careful of bloggers and You tubers who don't have any idea what they're talking about when they're reviewing airbrush products. Find actual airbrush makeup artists who use it all the time and learn what their opinion is.

Makeup by Dani Fonseca
While we are mentioning Europe, I know you have been here many times with different projects. Are you coming back soon? Will you be teaching any seminars here?
-I just finished doing a three day airbrush beauty workshop at the Academy of Freelance Makeup in London in May. I also did a demonstration master class while I was there.  My next trip to Europe will be at the end of September when I travel to Paris to be a guest instructor at the new Make Up For Ever TV and Cinema Academy.  I am very excited and honored to be working with this new Academy twice a year. However it's a week long class that is part of a program so unfortunately it would not be open to the public.

You have worked on many high profile projects and with many celebrities. Would you share a fun memory or a lesser known fact about one of these remarkable achievements? 
-To be honest for the most part when I work with celebrities I very rarely have a memorable moment with the celebrities themselves. My memorable moment is always with the team I work with. People always ask me "What's it like to work with Lady Gaga"? As you can imagine the woman is so busy and focused on what she's doing that I barely ever had a chance to have intimate memorable moments with her. I usually have more fun hanging out with my partner Will Lemon, or the dancers, or my friend Sarah Tanno who keys the dancers, and my assistants backstage. It's a job and I love it, but usually when I work with celebrities its quick, its business, and people have to keep it moving. One of the nicer moments was when I was body painting girls for a 50 Cent video and he put his arm around me and gave me a hug cuz he thought the work looked so good... I thought it looked hilarious (big cat faces painted on "well endowed" backsides), but as long as he was happy!

Lady Gaga and Zombie Boy, Makeup by Dani Fonseca for Temptu





What is your ultimate professional dream?
-I just would love to get to a point where my business is running itself, I have made a my impact on the world by inspiring other artists to make a difference, and I'm a mom who lives in a house with my husband by the park so I can go running whenever I want.  I'm getting there.  I have launched my new makeup artist leadership program called The Body of Artists this year, and I continue to educate people around the world on ways they can follow their dream in this insane industry we have chosen to have a career.  I am very blessed and put a lot of hard work into what I want, and do my best to not allow any excuses to get in the way.  If I could body paint Pink before I die, that would be cool, but that would be a bonus. 

I really enjoyed meeting Dani. I was already a big fan of her work, but I found myself quickly won over by her off beat sense of humour and by her personable approach, which left me hoping to see more of her and her fantastic work soon.
 



Thursday, June 12, 2014

Silicone based VS Water based airbrush makeup: which is better?

Silicone based or water based? This is one of the most pressing questions facing anyone approaching airbrush makeup for the first time. Let me just start by saying that I am glad that I writing this post now, three years into my airbrush experience. Had I not waited, I might have ended up like many other bloggers, fuelling a controversy that like most such squabbles is based on a lot of misunderstanding, and even bigger lot of rushed assumptions. Thankfully, after three years since my "radical conversion" to airbrushing, and after a whole lot of experimenting, researching and polling among my students, I am confident stating the following: you can achieve extraordinary results with both kinds of product. They both have significant unique strengths, and they both have some limitations. Your perception of either will depend on a few factors, mainly what brand you use, how much experience you have and what kind of training you received. That said, there will always be a blogger, a makeup artist and of course many a manufacturer ready to swear on the superiority of one over the other, and so the only thing we can do is state some objective facts.

CONSISTENCY
FACT: Silicone based products are more viscous (i.e. thicker) than water based ones. 
WHAT THIS MEANS: Silicone based products require higher pressure (5-15 PSI) to be atomized efficiently. By efficiently I mean producing a very fine mist that will not cake on fine wrinkles and large pores. Imperfections will be highlighted rather than concealed if the application is not correct. When applied correctly silicone will be undetectable on the skin, producing a truly flawless finish. This takes practice. For the same reason they are best applied with a larger nozzle (ideally .3 to .4), and you will need a slightly larger quantity of product to cover the same area. In short: working with silicone implies a higher learning curve.
Water based products work at lower pressures (2-12 PSI). Generally the application is sheerer, so spot concealing and the use of creme correctors is somewhat more frequent. Learning how to do a viable application can therefore be a faster process.

RESIDUE
FACT: Water based products are easier to clean from your airbrush.
WHAT THIS MEANS: No complete cleanup or dis assembly is required with either type of makeup when you are simply changing colours  (a false myth that is amazingly still being kept alive by some teachers). However, silicone requires a specific cleaner and a very thorough check up at the end of each session. Pros will need a complete dis assembly and clean regardless of the type of product used, but water based are far more soluble and therefore faster to deal with.

DURABILITY
FACT: Silicone based products are highly water resistant, water based products are not.
WHAT THIS MEANS: Silicone based products will not be impacted by water. Not even a large quantity. We demonstrate this in our classes very empirically (and somewhat comically) by pouring  a half a cup of water on a silicone made up student's face: no change. Of course this does not mean "completely friction resistant", which no makeup is. Water based products may streak if they come in contact with large amounts of water, however this does NOT mean that the makeup is ruined, at least not with most pro brands, because the streaks will disappear as soon as the water dries, and the makeup will look perfect again.

FLEXIBILITY
FACT: Silicone foundations are generally more "movable" than water based products.
WHAT THIS MEANS: Once the makeup is applied, a foundation can be still moved on the skin and re blended after a few minutes, if necessary. This makes silicone more similar to traditional makeup. Most water based products will dry almost on contact, however some brands still allow for some movement. Of course in both cases the real question should be why move it at all, thus compromising the airbrushed finish, which is what you should be after in the first place.

HEALTH CONCERNS
FACT: Silicone is a very big molecule. 
WHAT THIS MEANS: Silicone is not absorbed into the skin. It rests on top of it, sealing it from outside agents. This can also be read as "preventing it from breathing", but remember: the airbrush application allows for gaps between atomized particles, so a silicone airbrush application can still be "healthier" for your skin than coated traditional makeup. Regarding health issues with silicone in aerosol form, there is still no conclusive report that states categorically that it is safe to breath silicone particles. In fact, quite the opposite, as you can read on this report. However as far as makeup is concerned, the particles hopefully fall in the category of "too big to pass the nasopharyngeal region barrier" (meaning they will not reach your lungs), and then again exposure and quantities during makeup are extremely minimal. 

FACT: Water based products are generally less allergenic.
WHAT THIS MEANS: Although the ingredient list can vary significantly for each brand, it is a statistical truth that water based products are extremely well tolerated even by the most sensitive types of skin.

So, have you made up your mind yet? I hope not. I mean it. I hope you get to appreciate both, as I do. In our airbrush makeup courses, which are not "sponsored" by any particular brand, I like my students to experience both types of makeup. I actually have gone as far as devising a full makeup  comparison (including eyes) of the two by using silicone on one side of a student's face and water based on the other, of course choosing similar colours. Their preferences and comments have been very varied, but the comments I heard most often, and with no derogatory intent,  were that silicone looks like beautiful makeup, while water based looks like beautiful skin. There are perfectly good reasons why on different occasions you may want to achieve both the former and the latter.

Water Based Vs Silicone Based airbrush makeup: applied on our student Melania



Thursday, May 29, 2014

Occ Airbrush Makeup is BACK! - Joyous ramblings of a makeup sleuth.

OCC Skin is one of the best airbrush makeup products ever made, period. I could end my review here, but I'm going to elaborate a little further to explain why this product has become hard to find of late, causing some panic among its devotees. In other words: we love it, but where is it? 

2015 UPDATE: We are very sad to report that a few short months after this article was written, OCC Airbrush Makeup was finally discontinued by the brand. We remain hoping that they will eventually reintroduced what was for us one of the best foundation lines we ever tried. In the meantime you can read the rest of this post as a testament to a much beloved product.

Occ's fabulous Lip Tar range
 Obessive Compulsive Cosmetics was founded in 2004 by young makeup genius David Klasfeld, who designed his first products focusing on the quality and purity of the ingredients, and with a strict commitment to vegan and cruelty free standards. Before a little thing called Lip Tar became the most popular and celebrated lip product in the US,  the company earned a fantastic reputation for its airbrush makeup line, simply called Skin, which quickly came to include foundations, blushes and adjusters, all waterbased, and an alcohol based line as well called OCC Ink for body art and FX. The Skin line quickly became a star in many an airbrush makeup artist's kit, because it had everything that many other water based lines seemed to lack: a soft, matte yet dewy texture that never felt tight or dry and that remained movable for several minutes after application. In short, it defied most of the prejudices that are commonly applied to water based foundations. Like everything else at OCC it was also formulated to vegan, cruelty and bad chemical free standards, and to top it all it was super easy to clean from your airbrush, leaving practically no residue.  Cut to 2009: Lip tar is launched at the LA Makeup Show, and everyone goes crazy. Over the next three years Sephora steps in, OCC hits the big time, their website is redesigned, and everyone is happy but the airbrush makeup aficionados, who start getting "sold out" and "out of stock"notices every time they try to buy their Skin products. We finally find out that the packaging is being redesigned, and readied for a new launch. I panic a little. Are they going to change my beloved formula? 

The Occ Flag Store at 174 Ludlow St.
  It's 2014, I am visiting New York, and although I know I will see them at the Makeup Show, I decide to head over to OCC's show room in Ludlow Street, on the east side, see for myself what's going on and ask whoever I will find in charge a few questions. The store is not very big, but it is roomy enough to showcase the whole fantastic line and some cool artwork from OCC's latest campaign featuring some of Rupaul's Drag Race stars. Inside, associate Brittney kindly settles the matter for us, and there is good news and bad news. The repackaging is complete, and the Skin line is still available in all its 17 glorious colors (6 yellow based shades and 6 red based, plus 5 skin tone correctors), which is good news. The formula is exactly the same as before, which is great news. The only size available is now 4 oz bottles, but they are the same price as the 1 oz used to be, which is FANTASTIC news. 

The newly repackaged OCC Skin airbrush makeup range, 2014
 The INK line, however, has been discontinued forever, and this is a bit of a shame, but the sadness for its demise is quickly replaced by the joy of knowing that the original formula is alive and kicking. The distribution of a new product is almost always a lengthy affair, with quite a lot of factors at play, and this is why the product is still missing from a lot of resellers, especially here in Europe where the import process adds extra time. However we can all breathe a sigh of relief, because Skin is on its way back on the shelves. With its unique texture, Skin is my go to product for that extra pick me up factor. Its formula, makes your skin look remarkably healthier and radiant, while remaining completely undetectable, if applied correctly. I know this sounds like any old classic beauty claim, but in this case it's true, it's just that good. 

US BUYER TIP: Until your preferred supplier is restocked, you can order this directly from OCC's website.

EUROPE BUYER TIP: Some vendors still stock the original 1 oz sizes, in varying quantities. The Genie Cosmetics website still seems to have all the colours in stock. 

Willam Belli of Rupaul's Drag Race for OCC

Tuesday, May 20, 2014

Airbrush Makeup Guru Profiles: an interview with Sheila McKenna

We are very excited to bring you the first in a series of interviews with the world's leading and most inspiring airbrush makeup artists. We couldn't have hoped for a better opener than this chat with Kett Cosmetics founder and creator Sheila McKenna, who personifies the best combination of amazing talent and great entrepreneurial skills.  

(Please click on any photo to enlarge it. Sheila was kind enough to provide captions that list all the airbrush products that were used in the making of these amazing looks. You can visit the Kett website or refer to the resellers on our directory to purchase these fantastic products.)

Sheila McKenna
Passion, creativity, energy and commitment are the first words that light up like big neon signs in a writer's mind when meeting Sheila McKenna. If the writer happens to be a beauty enthusiast with a love for airbrush makeup bordering on the obsession, the term uber guru will follow up shortly. We are in New York City visiting The Makeup Show, one of the top beauty industry events in the world. Sheila McKenna is right here with Kett Cosmetics, the brand that she has created and directed to become one of the most highly regarded and recognizable names in HD makeup worldwide. Kett offers an unparalleled synergy between crème products, airbrushing, and ultra fine fixing powders that work together to meet today's strict high definition standards. The extensive Kett booth is running like clockwork in the background, with a team of skilled makeup artists demonstrating both beauty and fantasy makeup for a crowd of spell bound onlookers. In the midst of everything that is happening Sheila is radiant with enthusiasm and kindly available to answer my questions.

Above is an image of Lorianna Izrailova. Her skin is airbrushed with Hydro Foundation. The reflection on her lips and collar bone is airbrushed with the Shimmer called Zircon. She is contoured with the color Shadow. Her blush was airbrushed with Sunkissed.
-I know you have a background in art and design. What made you decide to become a makeup artist?
As a young girl, I remember watching my mother do her makeup and thought she was the most beautiful woman in the world. Wanting to paint my own face was a natural step. Choosing makeup as a career was inspired by my father’s advice to do what makes you happy. It will never feel like work whether you are making money or not. The choice was easy.
-Who or what inspired your interest in airbrush makeup?
After 18 years of actively doing makeup, I hit a creative wall and began my quest for artistic growth. At the time, I found a group of motorcycle and car painting enthusiasts that were teaching airbrush classes and registered immediately.  I didn’t expect the passion to ignite as quickly as it did.

This image is one of my favorites because we had Audio Slave blasting in the studio while shooting. Joan Jett was the inspiration and the names of the colors are all Rock n Roll inspired. Kristin Cruz is airbrushed with Hydro Foundation. Here eyes were airbrushed with Iron Maiden, Purple Haze, Mercury and Star Dust. The rest is Rock N Roll history. We also have a video of this look on our website and youtube.
 -Building your own company into a success must have required amazing courage and great instincts. What is the secret behind such a remarkable achievement in such a competitive industry?
I wouldn’t use the word courage to describe what fuelled the fire. It was more like a passion to do what made me happy along with the support of my family. The secret behind Kett’s continued growth is to create high quality products that stand on their own along with a team of passionate employees.
-Where does the name Kett come from?
It’s not a very exciting story but is dear to me so if I told you, I’d have to kill you.
 The model is airbrushed with Kett FX colors in Bone and Varicose. The side of the veins were highlighted to create a concave effect with Hydro Proof White. She is contoured with Kett FX Darkest Brown and a layer of Liquid Metal in Star Dust is all over. The bite marks were hand painted with Kett FX Artery and Trauma
-How would you sum up the best advantages of airbrush makeup for a makeup artist that may be new to the technique?
The greatest advantage to airbrushing a face or body is the ability to alter the skin in any direction with ease and seamless perfection. When layering makeup with an airbrush, you have the ability to color correct and neutralize without creating unwanted secondary colors. It’s also like placing a filter on a camera creating a soft focus on the skin. Technique is key. The application is only as good as the artist with the airbrush. I strongly emphasize the need to get proper training. At Kett, we teach visual and illustration art techniques so every artist attending a workshop will walk away with the ability to understand how to use the airbrush and paint anything from a face and body to t-shirts and murals. We happen to use makeup as our medium.
-What do you think may be the biggest misconception or myth concerning airbrush makeup today?
The biggest misconception about airbrushing makeup is that it’s heavy or cakey. The opposite is true. The artist controls the amount of product and layers on the skin. Once the technique is mastered, the option for sheer to full coverage is in the artists’ hand. Some products have more opacity than others so choosing the right makeup is also key to a beautiful application.


The model above is Emily Dann. She is airbrushed with Hydro Foundation R1, Contoured with Shadow and her eyes are airbrushed with the Liquid Metal Iron Maiden.
 -What new product are you presenting here at the Makeup Show?
Our latest creation is Fixx Crème Correctors. This is an abbreviated collection of Light, Medium and Dark crème colors that have an orange/salmon base. They are perfect for neutralizing blue and brown whether it is under the eyes or around the mouth area. They are waterproof and contain skin care benefits which is always a plus when wearing a product on a daily basis.
-Do you have new additions coming up for your airbrush makeup or equipment lines?
We are working on some new colors for the Hydro Foundation Series that will be vibrant and fun. It’s always evolving but only at a pace that is controlled by quality, not quantity.
-Educating about your product is a significant part of your company's activity, with a busy schedule of national and international workshops throughout the year. How do you enjoy teaching?
In the event that I do teach a class, it is always filled with laughter and fun. Airbrushing is playing and who doesn’t want to play for a living? I try to find the fun in everything that I do.

This image was done in an extreme makeup class. Courtney's brows were blocked out and airbrushed over with the colors in our Hydro Color theory collection.
-How would you sum up the most distinctive quality of your product and company?
Kett Cosmetics provides a level of product, equipment and education that is focused entirely on the professional artist. Attention to ingredients and performance in front of the HD camera is what sets us apart.  In 1998, I started product development on our first liquid makeup. Having contacts in the industry and freelance jobs provided the arena for me to test the products live and make adjustments to the formula before launching in 2003. We continue to test all new products on camera in our HD Studio. When it comes to airbrushing, we believe that it should be a professional service and not promoted as a “do it yourself at home” type of product. The bar is set high.
-What is the next dream in line for you?  
Continuing to grow as an airbrush artist, creating new products and taking care of my parents would be a dream come true.
 
Meeting Sheila was a real treat, and I admit to being a little star struck. She represents her brand with kindness, humanity and a winning "hard rock" charm that is quite unique. I look forward to getting to know Kett even better, and to meeting her again.

Just for fun: This is my latest portrait of Salvador Dali using black and white airbrush paints on steel


Wednesday, May 14, 2014

A visit to the TEMPTU PRO Showroom New York: airbrush makeup heaven!

A doorway to Airbrush Heaven
You simply cannot talk about airbrush makeup without mentioning Temptu. This brand has been at the forefront of airbrush innovation since it created its first airbrushable colours for temporary tattoos in 1981. Today Temptu is simply the most recognized airbrush makeup brand worldwide, with a superstar silicone based line, an incredibly wide range of alcohol based colours for body art and special effects, and a water based line. Temptu also offers some of the best equipment in the market, which is constantly updated to offer the best and most cost effective options available.
Just over a week ago, during our visit to New York City, we went to visit Temptu East Coast headquarters, the show room at 26 W. 17th St.  in the Flat Iron district.

Welcome to Temptu
A wall of Temptu delights
The show room is located on the third floor of an elegant commercial building, so we knew not to expect a flashy store front, and yet as soon as the door opened, "airbrush makeup heaven" was the first definition that popped into our minds. Other airbrush companies we have visited (and we have visited a few) have retained a quaint, family business outlook. Not Temptu. Here everything is designed to match the image of the dynamic company to perfection: modern, spacious, streamlined and high-tech.We were welcomed by a lovely receptionist, and our attention bounced quickly from her smile to the wall of products displayed next to her. It was so great to see the complete line in one single place.  
The newest version of their 2.0 kit was displayed in a range of vibrant colours on a fixture on the opposite wall. This kit comes with the popular Pod system, or in the new "starter" version with the newly released SP-40 airbrush, which can also be attached to any pre exixting compressors in the line, creating what we have long considered to be the ideal kit combination.

Temptu new 2.0 kit in vibrant colour.
Senior marketing manager Hallie Feigenbaum came in shortly after and very kindly gave us tour of the premises. There are other meeting rooms in which special editions of the compressors are displayed for décor, and ample offices where the creative minds of the company are busy at work.
The Makeup Show was just a couple of days away so the team was busy organizing the many events related to this important trade show of which the brand was one of the main sponsors this year.  In spite of their busy schedule, the guys in the team were very nice to us, and we got to take a sneek peak into some new products that they are about to reveal to the press. We are sworn to secrecy as to what they are, but we can tell you that they will surprise you and that they are of exceptional quality. We thanked the guys and move to the training room,  fully equipped with professional lights, where lessons and seminars take place. This is another great feature at Temptu that should not be taken for granted: anyone who buys a kit from them can participate in a free introductory class that will show them how to use it.
 
The Training Room at Temptu
There is another Temptu showroom in Los Angeles, and perhaps we will be lucky enough to visit there also. For now, we couldn't have enjoyed our visit more, and we could not thank Hallie enough for making us feel so welcome. In the next few weeks we will publish much more on Temptu. An in depth review of their new starter system is in the works, and a video tutorial featuring their latest colour collection is also planned, so as always... stay tuned!

Some highligts from  Temtpu timeline (please visit this page for a complete timeline):

1981: Dr. Samuel Zuckerman invents the TEMPTU DURA formula and tattoo ink transfer system for the cult classic film, Tattoo.
1990: TEMPTU’s ink transfer system becomes the gold standard in Temporary Body Art, appearing on Johnny Depp in the John Waters classic Cry-Baby.
1996: TEMPTU launches professional airbrush formulas Aqua™ and DURA™.
2000: TEMPTU PRO DURA™, makeup transforms Rebecca Romijin into X-Men’s bodaciously blue-bodied Mystique.
2002: TEMPTU goes hi-def with their ground-breaking silicone S/B™ formula and its unparalleled flawless finish.
2003: Key Makeup Artist Bernadette Mazur uses TEMPTU to create Nicole Kidman’s porcelain look in The Stepford Wives.
2009: TEMPTU introduces the AIRbrush Makeup System with AIRpod Technology, created for easy, at-home use and quickly becomes the beauty breakthrough of the 21st century.
2011: Makeup artist, Will Lemon III and the TEMPTU artistry team turn Lady Gaga into the "living dead" for her Born This Way video.

The Patricia Fields Compressor Designs
More Collectible Designs
Temptu Mission Statement