Graftobian GlamAire & F/X Aire Airbrush Makeup Kit Review -With Video Tutorial

Graftobian Walk Around Airbrush Kit

Graftobian's GlamAire is the most extensive line of foundations for airbrush in the world, with a staggering 58 separate shades divided in warm, cool and neutral tones. To complement the foundation line anoter 6 blush tones, 6 adjusters and 6 color corrector are available. If you wish to play with colors for more editorial or creative projects, or if you want to try doing a full beauty look using only your airbrush, there are another 68 colors from the F/X Aire line, offering you endless possibilities.

As far as equipment goes, Graftobian offers several solutions catering to every need, from the very portable kit for beauty makeup to to the very powerful options for body painting competitions. Almost seven years ago I reviewed Graftobian and the Walk Around Kit in detail on these pages. I am now very happy to have another chance to play with these beautiful products and create the look you see in the video and in the unretouched photos on this page, and to offer an updated review of the line from a more experienced perspective. 

The GlamAire and F/X Aire lines are so extensive that approaching a color choice can seem a bit daunting to the novice. An amazing aspect of the foundations is that every color also exists in cream form in Graftobian's celebrated HD Crème Palettes, so if you are familiar or have access to that product, choosing shades for your airbrush collection should be very easy. There are also three very convenient sampler packs, the GlamAire Beauty sets, which feature five shades from each group (Cool, Warm and Neutral), accompanied by a plastic palette with the corresponding five shades in cream form. These will make a great starter set for beginners, who will appreciate having the cream foundations to use on parts of the face that maybe a little more difficult to airbrush such as the under eye area. The GlamAire Formula is very fluid and the pigments extremely fine. This means that your airbrush is unlikely to ever clog or have any running issues while spraying these products. The makeup is water based and silicone and alcohol free, so it will feel very light on the skin, which should be prepped as normal with just a light moisturiser or ideally a silicone free primer to ensure maximum staying power. The formula is water resistant and won't budge from humidity or perspiration. Its matte finish is not too opaque, and the skin will balance everything out within a few minutes from application. For most shades, a few seconds will be necessary after spraying for the product to set and oxidize and reveal its true tone. Because of its lightness and fluidity, the product needs to be sprayed at a very low pressure and coverage will be achieved by layering several light passes, so it's important that you don't rush your application and that you step back between passes to observe what is happening, rather than expect an immediate result. The reward will be an ultra natural, HD proof finish that you can see on the 100% unfiltered photo right here in this paragraph. 

The F/X Aire line is where the fun really begins. This formula is an alcohol/water hybrid is available in a wonderful selection of shades, from primary colors to neon tones that will glow under UV lights, to a selection of skin tones for a more water proof and rub resistant finish and for body makeup. The percentage of alcohol is so delicate that the colors can be used safely around the eye area (of course providing that the eyes are kept closed during application), and they can be mixed without any problems with the foundation and blush tones of the GlamAire line to create eyeshadow looks that range from neutral tones to highly pigmented fashion statements. In the video demo included in this review I have even used straight Black to create a fast eyeliner, with no discomfort whatsoever experienced by my model who has sensitive skin. This line was of course created for body painting, special effects and body art, and incredible effects can be achieved by using the wide range of stencils (the famous Bad Ass stencil line) also produced by Graftobian. 

The Walk Around System is the kit that I have used for this application. Once again I reviewed these tools in my previous article a few years back, but I can say here that the kit stood the test of time very well, being a solid and powerful piece of equipment, which can handle not only Graftobian-s own product, but also all the other brands of airbrush makeup as well, allowing maximum creative freedom for the artist. The enclosed battery did eventually die after a few years and many charging cycles, but you can buy a replacement on Graftobian's website, or if that should be problematic (I live in Europe and batteries don't ship well overseas) keep in mind that the casing houses a standard battery pack that can be easily replaced by a dedicated store or electrically gifted friend. 

Originated in 1978, Graftobian is still a family run business and a wonderful company with a heart. I am lucky to have met the current owner, Eric Coffman, who collaborated with luminaries such as Brad Look, Suzanne Patterson and Mary Erickson (who I am privileged to count among my friends), to devise products and lines that have become staples in many an artist's kit at an international level. As unbiased as this review is, I do regard this company as an essential contributor to the world of beauty, and personally as a revered part of Americana.

100% Graftobian Airbrush Makeup, unfiltered and unretouched

Graftobian GlamAire INCI (Ingredients):  

Water, Acrylates Copolymer, Propylene Glycol, TEA(Triethanolamine), Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Silica, Phenoxyethanol, Ethyhexylglycerin, Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Iron, Oxide Black (CI 77499), Iron Oxide Red (CI 77491), Iron Oxide Yellow (CI 77492), Ultramarines (CI 77007), Red 6 Lake (CI 15850), Red 7 Lake (CI 15850), Chromium Oxide Green (CI 77288)

Graftobian F/X Aire INCI (Ingredients): 

SD Alcohol 40-B, Water, Acrylates Copolymer, Propylene Glycol, Silica, Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Iron Oxide Black (CI 77499), Iron Oxide Red (CI 77491), Iron Oxide Yellow (CI 77492), Ultramarines (CI 77007), Red 6 Lake (CI 15850), Red 7 Lake (CI 15850), Chromium Hydroxide Green (CI 77289), Mica, Red 28 (CI 45410), Orange 5 (CI 45370), Yellow 11 (CI 47000), Ext. Violet 2 (CI 60730)

Airbrush Makeup Kit Review: Aeroblend Pro Starter Kit -with Video Tutorial

 

100% Airbrush Makeup with Aeroblend

Aeroblend is an Indiana based makeup company started by makeup artist and entrepreneur Kiralee Hubbard. I reviewed the previous version of their pro kit a couple of years ago, and now I am happy to have another chance to play with their brand new kit. 

Aeroblend offers a water blend formula with twenty shades divided in 10 neutral and 10 olive colors. With 20 overall tones that you can mix to create any in between hue, the foundation range is quite extensive and will cater to any skin tone. The foundation formula is 100% cruelty free and vegan, and it is made up of mineral pigments and botanical ingredients such as avocado, white tea and lavender, promising a long lasting, comfortable finish. The foundation colors are complemented by six blush tones, a bronzer and a highlighter with the same core formulation. The Aeroblend formula has a luminous matte finish that results in an ultra natural overall effect. The pigment is buildable to obtain more coverage when needed. The color have very low viscosity which means that they run effortlessly through any equipment and that clogs are virtually impossible. On the flip side, first time or inexperienced users will need to press very lightly on the trigger and use low pressure settings to avoid overspray and wet spots, and should always take their time between passes for the product to properly set. There is also a minimal oxidation process which means that the true color of a shade will sometimes reveal itself  a few seconds after it's been applied. All the colors come in two formats: a mini size ( 6ml/.2 oz) for trial and travel, and a full size (30 ml/ 1 0z) conveniently priced at 25 dollars. The Kit options come with the trial size bottles, which is an excellent opportunity to experience the range at a very convenient price. 

The new tools offering by Aeroblend is an elegant, sleek compressor with a tactile function that allows you to switch between three fixed pressure output levels with just a tap. The compressor is more than powerful enough to spray all of the products in the Aeroblend range, and then some. I would say without a doubt that you can use any water based formula in the market without fear of clogs or mechanical fatigue, while it may not be ideal for some thicker silicone based formulas. The airbrush is a continuous flow, all metal parts custom made applicator with a nozzle that once again is more than efficient for the Aeroblend formula. The new Aeroblend cleaner is more than enough to keep the airbrush in perfect shape and running well for a very long time without any need for deep cleaning. 

The tools on sale are the same for every kit composition, what makes the difference between the Personal and Pro kits is the number of colors included. The personal option comes with four shades of foundations and a color match guarantee, so you can choose with peace of mind. The pro version of the kit however comes with all the shades in the range and with a 30 day satisfaction guarantee, so for just a few dollars more it's definitely the most attractive option. 

In order to showcase as many of their colors as possible I did a full face look using exclusively Aeroblend for both foundation and eyes, taking some shades from the blush range. While these products weren't designed to be used as eyeshadows, they do perform rather well with their delicate, easy to blend pigmentation, and I can only hope that Kiralee and her team will want to expand the color range including some matte and shimmer shades for eyes and a couple more options for eyebrows. 

With very reasonable overall prices, free shipping for order over 35 dollars and many special offer through their mailing list, affordability is definitely an amazing advantage that this company offers, giving both personal and pro users the chance to try out a high quality product with just a small initial investment. I personally am a big fan of Aeroblend and wish this brand every success.

Airbrush Makeup Hall of Fame: Interview with MHB creator Marc Harvey

When I first became interested in airbrush makeup, back in 2011, Marc Harvey was one of the first artists I found in my research. Marc was then spokesperson and lead educator for Luminess, a consumer oriented airbrush makeup brand that relied heavily, as it still does now, on televised infomercials for its promotion in the USA. While I didn’t purchase the product, I found Marc’s enthusiasm contagious and his lively presentations highly informational and entertaining. After his long stint with Luminess, Marc left to create and devise the makeup line for Elementwo, a brand created by airbrush manufacturers Sparmax which is popular in many Eastern  countries and available in the US and Europe as well. After this experience, Marc decided to create his own product line called Marc Harvey Beauty Ultra HD Airbrush Makeup. This achievement alone is credit enough to inscribe his name in our Airbrush Makeup Hall of Fame, a space that celebrates the creators and the most influential artists in this medium.  I was very happy to review his product line, and I am honoured and delighted to ask him a few questions on our favourite subject.

-What inspired you to become a makeup artist, and when did you decide that makeup was going to be your career? 

I have been an artist all my life. I paint, sketch and do graphic design. I decided to make makeup a career when I was 23.

-You started in airbrush makeup when the public at large was just beginning to become aware of it. How did you first become involved in airbrushing?

From my background in painting, I was very familiar with airbrushing. I started using airbrush with my brides and model agency clients. I would have to do 30 looks in one day, so the airbrush came in very handy.

-What made you choose airbrush makeup as the focus of the bulk of your career?

It really chose me. Luminess Air was looking for a Global Artist that had worked with all skintones and had a background in marketing as well. The goal was to help everyday women see that they could airbrush themselves and look like the celebrities and models I was working on at the time. 

-You’ve been instrumental in the promotion and/or creation of three major airbrush makeup brands: Luminess, Elementwo and now your very own MHB Cosmetics. What is the most memorable thing you learned from each of these experiences?

All three of them helped me to realize to always do what you love. At my core, I am a creator. Each brand I worked with or created helped me to hone my ability to understand what clients want and need from a product. My brand is ever evolving and is still a work in progress.

-What makes the MHB Airbrush formula different from all the others?

Versatility. My product is the only product that you can actually use a concealer under or over. You can use any powder over. You can build without it looking cakey. I also believe it gives the most natural coverage. You can also sheer it out with your favorite water based toner or my rosewater for a more light, zero makeup look.

-The MHB airbrush range at the moment offers an extensive foundation line plus more colors for blush and highlighters. Do you see an expansion of the line in the future to include more colors, perhaps a dedicated eyeshadow selection?

I will be adding more highlight/shimmer pigments spring of 2021. AND I’m doing a line specifically for POC launching for Holiday time. I will also do a pigment line that can be used for whatever the artist wants to use them for.

-MHB also includes several innovative skin care products. Would you tell us more about those, and the philosophy behind them?

I wanted to create products that I loved using and that over the years I would use to prep my clients skin before makeup application. I used every organic skincare product I could get my hands on in Sephora. I would try them on myself, then use them on my clients. I learned ingredients really well over the 13 years of me doing makeup, so I knew that when and if I ever created a skincare line, I would know what ingredients worked great. 3 years ago I pulled the trigger and created MySkincAir Organics. I launched 2 years ago and it is currently in Hilton Hotels and BodyBrite Spas around the country. The name MySkincAir (pronounced My Skincare) is exactly the feeling and philosophy behind the brand. I wanted everyone to feel a connection to the brand as I really took the time to make sure I educate clients on each product and its ingredients when you go online looking for a product for your particular skin issue. It is fragrance free, sulfate free, vegan, phthalate free and cruelty free, organic, skin loving ingredients that give your real results. Also, the “AIR” in skincare has a dual meaning. AIR , because the core product is the Oxygen Cleanser. Oxygen=Air. And, A.I.R is an acronym for Anti Inflammatory Response technology. Every product in the line targets inflammation by having a proprietary blend of natural anti inflammatory ingredients in them. Inflammation is the root of all ailments and issues in our body, including the skin.

-As an airbrush makeup ambassador and educator you have extensive experience in promoting the technique to the world at large. What is the best aspect of airbrushing in your opinion?

It will always be the ability to cover skin imperfections flawlessly and effortlessly. When you have a color science like the Marc Harvey Beauty EXCLUSIVE AIR line has, you literally feel like you are not even wearing makeup. It leaves your skin feeling light and looking perfect.

-What do you think is the greatest misconception that keeps more makeup artists and consumers from trying out airbrushing?

It’s hard to do. This is just a hurdle that will unfortunately always be there. Also, that it is the only product you have to use if you use it. Many don’t realize that it can actually just be another product in your beauty arsenal for you to use alone or in tandem with other complexion products.

-Having achieved so much in your career, what is the professional goal you look forward to? On a personal level, what is your ultimate dream?

My dream is to keep on going in the direction I'm going in with my brands. I’m not that great on social media because of debilitating anxiety that has gotten worse over the years. BUT, I am a warrior. I have fought through it my whole life since I was a child. My goal is to create more of a beauty education platform, free of drama, fake personas and “look at me I’m so rich and fabulous” BS. Just being myself and answering questions like I do for my clients when they book me. I want to become everyone’s favorite beauty guru for makeup and skincare on social media.

I wish to thank Marc for this opportunity to get to know him and his product better, and I look forward to meeting him in person one day in the not too distant future. 
In the meantime you can find Marc and his product line on Facebook and Instagram.

Airbrush Makeup by Marc Harvey

Is airbrush makeup ready for Ultra HD? Marc Harvey Beauty review and video tutorial.

Full Face Airbrush Makeup with MHB Cosmetics

Marc Harvey is a very well known face in the airbrush makeup world, having been the brand ambassador for the popular brand Luminess, heavily advertised on US television network. After that experience he created another brand called Elementwo that is popular on the Asian markets, and finally he moved on to create his own brand, Marc Harvey Beauty, which debuted just a few years ago and which offers a range of products for airbrushing, a series of skin care products and some traditional makeup complements for eyes and lips. 

This new airbrush line offers a foundation range with 20 colors catering to every skin tone and every ethnicity, plus 4 shimmer colors, six blush tones and two bronzers. 

The airbrush products are available individually on the website in .5 oz (14 ml) bottles, or as trial bundles of .25 oz (7 ml) bottles that are also offered in a Starter Airbrush kit combination with a compressor and airbrush package. This review will concentrate on the makeup, as I have not received the tools, however I can confidently say that given its light texture and high fluidity, the makeup can be successfully applied with any and all beauty airbrush systems out there, regardless of the brand. 

In line with Marc's passion for skin care, this water/alcohol hybrid airbrush formula is rich in botanical ingredients that include cucumber, green tea, rosehip oil extracts, neroli, jojoba and orange peel oils and witch hazel. These are preserved in a water base with a 14% presence of organic alcohol, which serves both as preservative for the other elements, as an astringent, and to ensure the makeup's durability once applied. 

The airbrush makeup line is called Exclusive Air Ultra HD. The name is interesting enough, because it implies that the product is natural looking and imperceptible enough to hold up to the Ultra HD camera. From a professional stand point, this means that the makeup should offer efficient coverage without creating any texture, which is the claim of most airbrush brands out there. So, does the product live up to its own name? In short, yes it does, and the results are excellent.  You can view how I applied to obtain the look in these photos and read my pro tips in the video tutorial included here, then read on for my own thoughts and opinions on this formula.

The formula is the thinnest, least viscous product I ever put through my airbrush. After only a pass it's hard to see any difference at all in the skin, but right here lies its beauty: you can build the application very slowly and subtly, zooming in on more problematic areas first and then using wider, more far away passes, and you hardly ever run the risk of creating unsightly concentration of product (hot spots). All you have to do is take a few seconds and a virtual step back from the process between passes in order to assess how your skin is changing. Once you have reached the desired coverage, you will be amazed by the total lack of texture on the skin. You will see the skin concealed and improved, without feeling or seeing the presence of virtually any product at all, and there will be zero highlighting of problematic areas, even of the fine skin around the eyes. While the airbrush product can be integrated with traditional concealer either under or over the airbrushed application, it is my experience that with careful layering you will not need any concealer at all, and as an added bonus you will not have to fear slippage in finer lines throughout the day. 

The finish of the product is a delicate matte outlook, which can easily support the use of hydrating finishing sprays on top. The durability is comparable to that of the best, more established airbrush formulas out there. The formula has no added perfume, and a faint scent derived from the natural ingredients will vanish right away after application. 

As far as the other complements I was able to try, the bronzer performed just as well as the foundation, and the shimmer colors were absolutely gorgeous, as you can see in the video. I look forward to shooting more content with this line, and I would like to invite you to check back on these pages soon for a very interesting interview with Marc as we induct him in our very own Airbrush Makeup Hall of Fame. 

How to airbrush a full face with Temptu Air and Airpod Pro -with video tutorial

 

100% Airbrush Makeup using Temptu Air & Airpod Pro

It has been a while since I talked about airbrushing makeup with Temtpu Air, the ground breaking hand held system developed by Temptu about 5 years ago. This device was launched as a beauty makeup full replacement option for the traditional airbrush systems that have to be plugged to an outlet and are still sporting an air tube. The system can be used with pre filled single color cartriges called AirPods, or with an open top special cartridge called Airpod Pro that can be used like almost like the well of a traditional gravity feed airbrush, and allows the user to mix any color and any formula. 

After five years and still going very strong, Temptu was obviously onto something when they made this system available, many consumers and pros alike have included this device in their makeup kit, while others are more and more curious and above all wonder if this is a valid replacement for bulkier and heavier machines that are far more complicated to maintain. 

The whole idea behind the invention of the first line of single color AirPod cartriges back in the mid 2000 was to offer all the benefits of the airbrush application with none of the drawbacks, mainly airbrush cleaning and maintenance. After so many years, I can say that I have been a very happy user of the device, and while it hasn't replaced my traditional airbrush system, which I still prefer for precision and versatility, it has become a precious ally in my own kit, allowing me to save plenty of time in many a tight spot. 

The first product created with the AirPods, a foundation line called Silk Sphere, is still only available in that format. The product was update shortly after the launch of the Temptu Air applicator,  and as far as I am concerned is still one of the absolute best silicone base foundations out there, with its transformative all in one formula that acts as primer, concealer and foundation, and a luminous finish that takes years off even the most complicated skin texture. 

With the launch of Temptu Air, a new foundation line called Perfect Canvas was also created, and made available both in AirPod and in bottle form. Because this formula has a faster setting time than the classic S/B line by Temptu, it lends itself to a more versatile application even on smaller areas and textured skin, and is therefore much easier to use even for eyeshadow, creating subtle and beautiful blends. A short while after the release of the Air, Temptu launched an eye shadow (AirShadow) collection called Earth Stone, which featured a wonderfully usable selection of essential neutral and earthy tones. These colors can be complemented by the blush and highlighter colors available in the Perfect Canvas range to create more colorful looks, but now I can't wait for a more vibrant palette that should be released very soon. While we wait for this new color collections, I have played with the available tones to create the look you see in these photos.

In the video pasted below, I have created a full look using Temptu Air, from eyeshadow, contouring and blush down to highlighter and base. I have not used a single brush for this, not because I couldn't have, but simply to show the full potential of the tools and products. Of course avoiding brushes altogether is also faster, easier (at least for me), and more hygienic, which is a huge plus these days. The video is full of pro tips that illustrate what I am doing as I complete the look. 

As you will see, I have used the Airpod Pro "open top" cartridge to apply everything. I chose to do this both to be free to mix the colors as I wished, and because the colors in bottle format are decidedly less expensive than their single color AirPod counterparts. The Airpod Pro is easy to clean and maintain. When you first use it, it will need to be primed with a few drops of silicone cleaner in order to get it to perform correctly.  I would definitely advice buying a two pack so that you can have a spare one ready in case of temporary issues, and to be able to use a separate AirPod Pro if you wish to use a different based formula with it such as an alcohol base line or a waterbase product. So are the AirPod cartridges completely mainenance free? If you use them often and have a little care, I would say yes. If longer period of time occur beteween uses, however, they may tend to settle a bit and will need to be helped a little. This is not difficult nor lenghty, and with a bit of practice you will have no problems getting them to perform well again and use them up to their full potential. The video below teaches you my tricks in order to achieve just that. 

Dinair ONE Kit Review - One year later! With full airbrush makeup video tutorial.

Dinair Airbrush Makeup Kit: The ONE

December marks a year since I received my Dinair One kit, so I thought I would post a quick review to update you on how I am doing with my unit. 

I will not keep you in any kind of suspense and declare right away that my experience with this amazing little gizmo has been entirely and utterly positive. I have used my kit extensively for many intensive tasks, from full makeup video demos to endless color swatching and daily makeup application, and the unit has performed solidly throughout. The battery is still going strong after 12 months, it still takes less than an hour to charge and lasts for several days also depending on how intensely it is used. 

My Dinair One Kit

As for the JX2 airbrush, well, this is actually a record setter for me, being the only airbrush I ever owned that I never had to take apart, and it's still performing very well today. I have used the Dinair Cleaning Caps System religiously after every use, and they have been enough to keep the tool in perfect shape, never requiring the removal of the nozzle for deep cleaning or a soak in my trusted ultrasonic cleaning machine. 

Like I said in my first review, the unit is precisely and perfectly calibrated to spray all of Dinair's formulas, and I have never and would never use it with any other brand because I know that this would compromise the performance of the equipment. 

As this winter season seems to be dominated by green hues, I have decided to use my Dinair One kit to execute another full makeup that uses some of the hues available in Dinair's incredible color range, and you can see the full process by watching the video tutorial enclosed below. I will never understand why this brand is not celebrated more for the fantastic formulas it offers, and specifically for the insane choice it allows when it comes to eye shadows. I guess the only reason I can think of is that people, and makeup artists in particular, simply don't know enough about them, and so I shall continue in my mission to spread the word as far as I can. 

       

I recently had the pleasure to talk to both Dina Ousley and George Lampman (Dinair's creators) in an extended Skype session that I hope will be published soon, and despite the very difficult time that we are all facing, they hinted at many exciting news on the next developments they have in store for this amazing medium that is Airbrush Makeup. I continue to be inspired by their talent, their dedication and their sheer genius, and I will always be immensely grateful for allowing the technique to become what it is today for us all. 

Unretouched (except for light auto balanced) and unfiltered
100% airbrush makeup using Dinair The One

Swatches of Dinair's amazing selection for a green palette

Easy hooded eyes step by step tutorial... with airbrush makeup!

Let's talk about eyeshadow for hooded and textured eyelids. Is airbrush makeup still an option for these types of features? What special actions should you take to avoid cracking and stamping, and to ensure durability? Here's a simple step by step guide as a complement to my latest video tutorial. I like to keep my videos short and to the points, so I made this guide for those who may need further clarification on the the on-screen directions that you will find in the video here below:

STEP 1: Prime the eyelid

Airbrush makeup is a fine mist of nebulized liquid pigment. As such, oily skin makes it harder for the product to perform at its best, especially in the case of hooded eyelids where the skin folds onto itself creating a potentially problematic crease. To best prime the eyelid, cleanse then moisturise the area with a minimum quantity of non oily moisturiser, then apply a mattifying lotion, and finally prime with the smallest amount imaginable of mattifying primer. By "smallest amount" I literally mean the minimum quantity to cover on your brush or sponge so that it can be dabbed lightly on the eyelid. No visible amount should be left on the skin. If the primer used is silicone based (most primers are) it will not cause any problem for water based products, so long as you didn't exceed the quantities and you layer the eyeshadow in light passes, giving each pass a moment to dry. If the skin of the lid area is particularly oily,  a very light dusting of HD (silica) powder will also help improve pigment adhesion and durability. We skipped filming the eye priming part on the video, and went straight to the general face primer, Smash Box Primer Water, which was perfect for our model's skin due to its water like, oil free formula.

STEP 2: Plan the eyeshadow design

If you know how to do traditional eyeshadow on hooded lids, you will know what to do with an airbrush: basically to create an illusion of depth you have to recreate the illusion of a lid crease above its actual natural seat, which is hidden by the over hanging skin. If you are not used to airbrushing color on smaller parts of the face, you can spray only air at the appropriate distance to see where the color will lay: the pressure of the air creates a visible depression on the skin which will help you get accustomed to the direction of the color. Once you have decided where you will apply the eyeshadow, evaluate the potential problems with skin texture: natural creases both horizontal and vertical will have to be opened up for correct application. In order to do that, you may have to gently stretch the skin by raising the eyebrow or the skit at the temple. For finer vertical lines near the tear duct, you can also stretch the area by gently pulling from the bridge of the nose.

STEP 3: Apply color

At this point you are ready to apply the color. Remember to set the pressure at a minimum strength to atomise the color correctly (without visible dots) and comfortably. Actual setting will depend on various factors such as product viscosity and equipment type. Practise on yourself first to ensure you know what you are doing before attempting on someone else. Barely rock the lever until you get a minimal output of color, which you will build up in intensity and coverage with repeated passes. Distance creates the blending, so practice spraying closer and gradually distancing your hand while spraying to create a seamless blend. Remember to dry the color by spraying air only after each layer. If you are stretching the skin to open up folds, remember to dry the color before releasing the skin. For a subtler result, start with lighter colors and use the darkest color for last. When applying on the mobile lid, start from the outer corner, which is always the darkest point. For the lower lid, you can also airbrush eyeshadow creating  a very subtle gradient. In order to do this without discomfort for your client, you will need to use a stencil as shown in the video (check the FREE STENCILS page of this website to download a free template and recreate the very one I am using in the video). The technique is totally problem free and much easier than it looks, so long as you are gentle in placing the stencil and always aware of your air flow. If you are using a double action airbrush, always remember start the air away from the face before you get close to the eye area.

STEP 4: Final touches

Once you have finished your main eyeshadow application, have the customer open their eyes and observe how the texture of the skin changes. If you see gaps due to the change in the skin position, as it often happens with mature skin, you can reapply while gently stretching the skin to open up those areas. In some cases, depending on what formula you are using, you may be able to touch up with a detail brush using a tiny quantity of liquid product (a steel palette is essential to pour a drop of pigment in these cases). If you have trouble doing this of course you always use powder product in matching colors.

I have always been a huge fan of airbrush makeup for eyeshadow as it offers amazing possibilities for an impeccably blended and super fast application. The formulation of the products you are using will determine the steps to take in the application. Both water based and silicone formulas offer beautifully different possibilities. Unlike powder eyeshadow, which very often must be built up in intensity, airbrush product offer 100% pigment intensity almost immediately, which is why you have to be particularly gentle in layering passes. Practice is essential, but becoming proficient takes a lot less than you think.