Thursday, July 28, 2016

How to achieve an INDESTRUCTIBLE bridal makeup with Nebula by Kryolan- With kit review and video tutorial

Bridal makeup is the daily bread of most makeup artists. Brides to be of any ethnicity and tradition tend to agree on three key factors when discussing their makeup: durability, coverage and perfect finish. Airbrush makeup is the perfect answer to these expectations, and it adds speed, hygene and high HD performance to boot. The new Nebula line by Kryolan features a wide range of colors designed to perform well for any makeup goal, from invisible coverage to body painting, however because of their finish and their resistance we found it ideal for bridal makeup, and we produced the enclosed video tutorial to demonstrate just that.

Airbrush Makeup with Nebula by Kryolan
The Nebula formula is silicone based, which makes the product comfortable, allows great coverage and makes it water proof. Unlike many airbrushable silicone based products however, Nebula has a very low viscosity and a very short drying time which is comparable to that of water based products. The final finish is also very light, luminous but not shiny and very effective in its coverage. In other words, it is exactly what brides are looking for. 
We already discussed our first impression of this product last week. After experimenting some more with these colors I can confirm that they do have a learning curve, and that the results you get will improve more and more as you practice applying them. Of course they were conceived for airbrush application, and I hope that this will inspire more and more artists to learn this incredible technique, forgetting all the fears and false myth that still surround it, and that were spread mostly by those who don't really know how to use it. For those of you who are in fact considering adding this skill to their abilities, I will now review Kryolan's own airbrush kit. Please keep in mind however that Nebula will work on any professional airbrush kit regardless of the brand.

The Kryolan Airbrush Kit
Bridal look with Nebula by Kryolan
Kryolan chose a great maker for the kits it distributes. These are made in fact by the Taiwanese historical Sparmax brand, which also provides tools for most of the best airbrush brands in the world. The compressor chosen by Kryolan is the very reliable DAC 25, a true work horse among portable units. This little jewel is very quiet, very light and compact and quite powerful with an air stream output of 30 PSI. The version manufactured for Kryolan has an appealing silver-gray finish that makes it also very attractive to look at. The compressor comes with a rechargeable battery pack, and can be carried on the shoulder or attached to your belt thanks to a very practical and slick bag. The carrier bag feature an exra compartment for an additional optional battery pack which will give you twice the amount of time without having to plug in the unit. A single battery pack in any case will be enough to complete a whole beauty makeup and more. The airbrush included with the version of the kit that I purchased is another work horse in the airbrush makeup world, that is the Sparmax SP35 with its solid reliability and high quality, easy to replace components. With the launch of the Nebula line Kryolan started distributing an additional airbrush with a slightly bigger nozzle (0.4mm) in order to allow for the optimal flow of shimmery pigments. This is good but not strictly necessary, as the product will work well on smaller nozzles too. For our video shoot I have replaced the valve on my airbrush with a continuous airflow valve (often called "single action"), and I added a pressure regulator which at this time does not come with the standard kit. Doing this will make application on smaller, more delicate areas such as the eyes much easier, and will allow you greater control of the product, however these tweaks are not indispensable.

Kryolan Airbrush Kit and Nebula Products

Bridal airbrush makeup:Kryolan Nebula
Additional Nebula products
To make the cleaning process easier, Kryolan has created a specific Nebula Airbrush Cleaner. This is truly an excellent product that will allow you to clean and flush out your airbrush very easily and very fast, even if you use it in between colors. Cleaning at color changes in any case will only be necessary if you are switching to a much lighter shade or between very pigmented colors. In my not exactly limited experience I can attest that thanks to this cleaner Nebula is the silicone based product that is easiest to clean, bar none. Another effective product is the Nebula Remover, the makeup removing solution created specifically for this makeup. The very resistant Nebula colors can be removed also with any good silicone based makeup remover, but none will be faster and gentler than this.

Backstage secrets of our video shoot
The makeup shown in our video tutorial was made entirely by airbrush, except for eyeliner, mascara and lipstick. No brushes, HD powder or fixing sprays were used. The skin was prepped with silicon based Kryolan primers. The cuts in the filming are purely for timing, we have not touched up the makeup "off camera" in any way. Our model survived the water test and went on to wear the makeup for the rest of the day. She confirmed it held perfectly until it was removed.

Wednesday, July 20, 2016

Nebula by Kryolan: First Impression Review of the new Airbrush Makeup line!

Introducing Nebula by Kryolan: 54 shades for a natural yet super resistant makeup.

Kryolan is a legendary professional makeup brand. Since its beginning in Berlin, Germany in 1945, this company has been proudly run by its original founding family, and many of its products have become standards in the theatrical, fashion and film industry.  Airbrush makeup could not be missing from an extensive catalogue such as Kryolan's, and for several years the brand has been distributing three acclaimed product lines: Micro Foundation On Air (silicone based) Air Stream (water based) and Aqua Proof (alcohol based for body painting). In the last year however Kryolan has taken a further step in the airbrush makeup direction with a sizeable investment in the creation and the promotion of Nebula, a new line of innovative colors with a high pay off that was conceived primarily for beauty application. We couldn't wait to try these products and we are now ready to share our first impressions. Please come back to these pages next week for a full review and video tutorial of Kryolan's airbrush kit and Nebula line.

Nebula is a silicone based line that features 54 colors divided in 6 shade groups: Complexion 1 and 2 for foundation, Eyebrow, Irridescent 1 and 2 for eyeshadow and blush, Chromatic for opalescent eyeshadow and  finally Vivid, which includes six primary colors for any other use. 
Just like any other product in the Kryolan brand, Nebula has its own individual color chart, and its shades are not matching any other product directly. Nonetheless, the line itself is quite extensive, and offers endless mixing possibilities. The colors are sold in kits of 6 shades for each group, however you can also purchase them individually and build your kit more gradually.

The packaging of the products is one of the most attractive and luxurious I have seen for any airbrush makeup products. The color kits are presented in very elegant blue boxes with a magnetic lid, and featuring a slick brochure inside with tips on airbrush maintenance. The dispenser on the bottles opens with a half a turn anti clockwise, and the caps are relatively easy to keep clean. Any spill can be wiped quickly with alcohol 99, which won't affect the high quality printed labels.
The product's formula is silicone and acrylates based. That said, the makeup viscosity is very low, so much so that it can be used with the same low pressure you would apply to a water based product (5 PSI). With the launch of the Nebula range Kryolan has made a special airbrush available with a 0,4 mm nozzle, so that the shimmer pigments could be dispensed without difficulty, however you will be able to use this product even with smaller nozzles, as we did for the swatches below that were applied with a .25 airbrush.

The most remarkable characteristics of the Nebula line become evident when you apply the product: the colors are beautiful, can be layered to a high coverage and are super resistant: after a drying time that can vary to up to one minute, they become virtually indestructible, totally water proof and with zero transfer. As far as the colors are concerned, you can judge for yourself from the airbrushed swatches below: the photo was taken in natural light (please click on it to view it in full screen mode)

We can't wait to demonstrate a full beauty look made entirely with Nebula, which undoubtedly represents an interesting new option on the market. 

Application: Apply the color in light passes, waiting a few seconds for each pass to dry. Lightness is a fundamental rule here as with most airbrushable products, especially when you are applying to delicate areas such as the eyelid, where you must avoid excessive layering that would result in shorter durability or cracking. 
Cleaning: You will not need to clean the airbrush when you change colors, simply discharge the previous color and test the following on a piece of paper to avoid mixed color output. At the end of the job you will have to use a silicone based cleaner or alcohol 99% followed by distilled water. Kryolan has created a very effective, alcohol based cleaner called Nebula Remover.
Availability: Nebula is available on Kryolan's website, through Kryolan's own stores or its many distributors. 
Polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate Copolymer, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Silica Dimethyl Silylate and may contain: [+/- Titanium Dioxide CI 77891, Iron Oxides CI 77491, Ferric Ferrocyanide CI 77510, Carmine CI 75470, Mica] May contain carmine as a color additive

Thursday, July 7, 2016

Airbrush Makeup from Spain: Ten Image Kit Review and summer look Video Tutorial

Airbrush Makeup Ten Image
Ten Image is one of the most prestigious brands in the Spanish beauty industry. The brand was created by Cazcarra Image Group, an enterprise that was founded in 1985 by makeup artist Carmen Cazcarra and that soon became the most important beauty academy in the Country. The rapid growth of this business allowed it to invest in producing a complete range of makeup to cover every corner of the market, from trendy consumer oriented lines to the most demanding sectors such as speciall effects for theater and film. Of course airbrush makeup could not be missing from such an extensive catalogue of products. After seeing Ten Image products at several editions of Cosmoprof, I couldn't wait to have the opportunity to test the airbrush lines and the kit being offered by this company.

Compressor and Airbrush
Ten Image Airbrush Kit
I purchased my kit from a European distributor, and I was pleasantly surprised by the quality of the instruments and the wealth of extra items that are most welcome additions to it. The compressor included in the kit is the very reliable DAC 25 by Sparmax, which is also the choice of many among the best makeup brands. The machine is very small and very quiet, yet powerful with a maximum output of 30 PSI. It can be powered from the mains or from a rechargeable battery pack, which is included together with a very handy, small carrying bag that you can wear attached to your belt of with a soulder strap.  The bag provides space compartments for the compressor, the battery pack and an additional battery unit that you can purchase separately. You will be able to complete a full body makeup on one charge of the batteries, but you may need to include and extra one or simply to plug in the unit if you are going to work on multiple people or to execute more taxing tasks such as body art. The airbush included in the kit is the Sparmax SP 35, also a classic shared by the best brands for its reliability and its nozzle of 0.35 mm that allows you to apply any type of airbrush makeup. The airbrush comes with a classic double action valve, which was switched by us immediately for a more convenient continuous airflow one. The kit also features a connector with a pressure regulator. This is a very important feature overlooked by some other brands offering the same equipment. Given the compressor's output the ability to lower the pressure for more delicate areas and finer work (such as eyeshadow) is crucial.

Additional Items
Also by Sparmax is the cleaning station that comes with the kit, provided here with two extra filters and a very practical plastic container that allows you to pack the jar without having to empty it if you have to clear your station in a hurry. Other extra item featured it the bundle I purchased were a plexiglass palette, two foam applicators and most importantly a 500 ml bottle of alcohol based cleaning fluid.  The product is very effective, leaving the airbrush clean and releasing a pleasant scent that does not linger for too long. Also provided were two more makeup items for Ten Image that I very much appreciated: a peach tone corrector and more importantly a bottle of Tensum, a very good, silicone free primer with a soft focus effect that you can see in action in the video.

The Makeup
Aibrush Makeup by Ten Image
Ten Image features eleven recently reformulated foundation shades and thirty more matte and shimmer colors for any application. All the makeup is water based, and the colors come in a generous 30 ml format. The foundation colors are very easy to apply and very comfortable to wear. The offer great coverage and above average resistance to water. The hues are perfect for the Latin and mediterranean skin tones for which they were originally designed, but easily adjustable to match any other tonality. The other colors impress us for the richness of their pigments. Some of them, such as the beautiful turquoise AM-41, must be applied in extra thin layers to avoid excesses. The shimmer colors have a spectacular finish, and can of course be mixed with any other, creating endless possibilities ranging form the most natural bridal looks to the most daring body art. Scroll down to see a few swatches of the colors we used in our video tutorial As always you can click on the images to view them in full screen mode.

You can find the Ten Image products on the Spanish website of the company, or through their international distributors such as their Birtish branch. As this is a professional line you may have to register to view the prices. To request information from outside of Spain you can write an email to The very nice memebers of the  Ten Image team speak English and will be happy to help you.
Please check this newly released  video to see the step by step tutorial for the first look we created with these product. The makeup that I created with my collaborator Angela Rosa is directly inspired by the collection released by Ten Image for summer 2016 by the name of Mediterranean Soul, and by the colors chosen by their Creative Director Jordi Justribò.

Foundation Ingredients: Aqua, Talc, Propylene Glycol, Glycerin, Phenxyethanol, Caprylyl Flycol, Magnesium Aluminium, Silicate, Ethyliexigliceryn. Pigments.
Other Colors Ingredients: Water, Clacium Carbonate, Paraffin Wax, Petrolatum, Dextrin, Glycerine, Stearyl Alcohol, Acacia Senegal, Sodium Benzoate, Perfume, Pigments.

Fondos para aerògrafo de Ten Image by Cazcarra

Colores para aerògrafo de Ten Image by Cazcarra