Welcome to airbrush makeup! In these pages you will find unbiased indipendent airbrush makeup reviews, video tutorials, and everything about airbrushing makeup not just from the US but from Europe and the world at large. The guru is in...
Background -The SilkSphere foundation was created in 2009 to complement the launch of the first Temtpu kit for consumers. The product came exclusively in Airpod format, i.e. a pre-filled capsule that would attach to a proprietary airbrush and that could be used until empty without any need for maintenance, giving the customers all the advantages of airbrush makeup without any of the perceived drawbacks, such as tools maintenance and cleaning. The formula was had a very dewy finish and was engineered to be user friendly, so it would remain very malleable after application in order to allow the home user to easily fix any mistakes. It had a very distinctive floral scent, which was problematic for some, including myself, but was already remarkable for its unprecedented coverage and for the fact that it was an all-in-one product, not needing any primer, concealer or color corrector. SilkSphere was reformulated in 2015 to coincide with the launch of what is now the very popular battery operated, palm top device Temptu Air. The shade range was slightly revised and the floral scent significantly diminished, but it remained available only in Airpod format, which meant that you would not be able to use it with a traditional airbrush.
New Release -This year after some wait, no doubt due in large part to the market difficulties created by the global pandemic, Temptu was finally able to update the formula once again and to release it at long last in bottle format, allowing everybody to experience it regardless of their preferred tools.
Range and Formula -The new SilkSphere is available again in 18 proprietary shades that will match any skin tone, with a good color consistency when compared to the previous version. Many of the colors have a very neutral undertone to reduce the need to mix tones, as they were initially created for the Airpod cartridges which did not allow for direct mixing, and this makes using them very easy. Having said that, there are now hues with a decidedly warm or cool undertone as well, so you can achieve any amount of precision needed in your color matching. The finish of the formula is still dewy, however this should not scare anyone who is used to matte foundation, because ultimately the amount of glow will depend on each individual complexion, and because any perceived shine can be easily mattified with the lightest pass of any fine HD powder (such as Temptu's own Invisible Difference). The new SilkSphere feels finer than its previous versions, but still retains its high coverage and its all-in-one characteristic, needing no priming, no concealing and no color correcting in most cases. Probably for this very reason, the formula's texture is a little more obvious than that of thinner airbrush foundations, but it still feels lighter than traditional products and looks perfect on its first passes, achieving a finish that would require quite a lot more work and skill to match using a traditional product.
In the video tutorial below I am showing you a step by step total look achieved using SilkSphere in bottle form for foundation and the Perfect Canvas range in AirPod for everything else.
Silksphere vs other Temptu Formulas -Compared to the other Temptu foundations, Silksphere ranks second to Perfect Canvas for shade selection, first in dewiness and first in viscosity, being the "thickest" of the three, but the difference with SB in this respect is barely perceptible. Lastly, but no less importantly for some, the floral scent is now completely gone, making the product application pleasantly scent free. As for the format, the choice is now up to you. The Airpod capsules allow for perfect dispensation every time, and while decidedly more expensive, the pod system means that you will achieve an optimal result using far less product. The bottle format price is significantly lower, and allows you to use this product with any tool and to mix the shades freely. Temptu's 1/4 oz /7.5 ml starter kits, available for this line in pack of six colors each, mean that everybody can experience this formula with a very reasonable investment.
My Opinion -As for my personal, unsponsored opinion, I have been a huge fan and advocate of this product for years, and I could not be happier and more grateful for this new reboot. I especially like to use this formula on problematic skin, where I have never needed to color correct or conceal thanks to SilkSphere's exceptional coverage. The extraordinary luminosity of this formula makes it a truly transformative makeup, and the only one that actually does conceal fine lines and rough texture. Because of this its silicone component, I would personally not recommend the daily use of this product on very acneic, irritation-prone skin, but for special occasions there is no other product that will allow you to achieve the same wow factor in as little time and with as little effort, so much so that I like to call SilkSphere "model skin in a bottle".
100% Airbrush Makeup using Temptu Air & Airpod Pro
It has been a while since I talked about airbrushing makeup with Temtpu Air, the ground breaking hand held system developed by Temptu about 5 years ago. This device was launched as a beauty makeup full replacement option for the traditional airbrush systems that have to be plugged to an outlet and are still sporting an air tube. The system can be used with pre filled single color cartriges called AirPods, or with an open top special cartridge called Airpod Pro that can be used like almost like the well of a traditional gravity feed airbrush, and allows the user to mix any color and any formula.
After five years and still going very strong, Temptu was obviously onto something when they made this system available, many consumers and pros alike have included this device in their makeup kit, while others are more and more curious and above all wonder if this is a valid replacement for bulkier and heavier machines that are far more complicated to maintain.
The whole idea behind the invention of the first line of single color AirPod cartriges back in the mid 2000 was to offer all the benefits of the airbrush application with none of the drawbacks, mainly airbrush cleaning and maintenance. After so many years, I can say that I have been a very happy user of the device, and while it hasn't replaced my traditional airbrush system, which I still prefer for precision and versatility, it has become a precious ally in my own kit, allowing me to save plenty of time in many a tight spot.
The first product created with the AirPods, a foundation line called Silk Sphere, is still only available in that format. The product was update shortly after the launch of the Temptu Air applicator, and as far as I am concerned is still one of the absolute best silicone base foundations out there, with its transformative all in one formula that acts as primer, concealer and foundation, and a luminous finish that takes years off even the most complicated skin texture.
With the launch of Temptu Air, a new foundation line called Perfect Canvas was also created, and made available both in AirPod and in bottle form. Because this formula has a faster setting time than the classic S/B line by Temptu, it lends itself to a more versatile application even on smaller areas and textured skin, and is therefore much easier to use even for eyeshadow, creating subtle and beautiful blends. A short while after the release of the Air, Temptu launched an eye shadow (AirShadow) collection called Earth Stone, which featured a wonderfully usable selection of essential neutral and earthy tones. These colors can be complemented by the blush and highlighter colors available in the Perfect Canvas range to create more colorful looks, but now I can't wait for a more vibrant palette that should be released very soon. While we wait for this new color collections, I have played with the available tones to create the look you see in these photos.
In the video pasted below, I have created a full look using Temptu Air, from eyeshadow, contouring and blush down to highlighter and base. I have not used a single brush for this, not because I couldn't have, but simply to show the full potential of the tools and products. Of course avoiding brushes altogether is also faster, easier (at least for me), and more hygienic, which is a huge plus these days. The video is full of pro tips that illustrate what I am doing as I complete the look.
As you will see, I have used the Airpod Pro "open top" cartridge to apply everything. I chose to do this both to be free to mix the colors as I wished, and because the colors in bottle format are decidedly less expensive than their single color AirPod counterparts. The Airpod Pro is easy to clean and maintain. When you first use it, it will need to be primed with a few drops of silicone cleaner in order to get it to perform correctly. I would definitely advice buying a two pack so that you can have a spare one ready in case of temporary issues, and to be able to use a separate AirPod Pro if you wish to use a different based formula with it such as an alcohol base line or a waterbase product. So are the AirPod cartridges completely mainenance free? If you use them often and have a little care, I would say yes. If longer period of time occur beteween uses, however, they may tend to settle a bit and will need to be helped a little. This is not difficult nor lenghty, and with a bit of practice you will have no problems getting them to perform well again and use them up to their full potential. The video below teaches you my tricks in order to achieve just that.
Airbrush makeup allows for the fastest, most durable and most undetectable tattoo coverage. In the video tutorial below you can see the process carried out mostly in real time. In this post I would like to go a little deeper into the details, but first an important disclaimer: while airbrushing as a technique is much easier than commonly perceived, I would definitely not improvise on others before extensive practice. Attend a class if you can, and if you can't be sure to check these pages for more information that may be useful in selecting the equipment and products that are best for you.
PRODUCT SELECTION
Airbrushing offers incredible coverage that will be practically imperceptible, thanks to the process of nebulization of the foundation. There are many brands that produce makeup that is specifically designed to be used with an airbrush, and that will dry fast and be more durable than traditional brands. My first advice is therefore to use a made for airbrush product rather than try to dilute and spray your normal foundation. Airbrushing traditional products will still save you application time, but traditional formulas will not gain more durability simply by being sprayed. While silicone based makeup will retain its water proof finish, there are specific products created by airbrush brands specifically to cover tattoo, and these are the ones that will allow for the best results. Among these, two are definitely worth mentioning: Tattoo Cover by Dinair and the Dura line by Temptu.
Tattoo Cover (formerly known as Colair Extreme) is a water based formula that becomes totally water and rub proof once applied. It is truly an extraordinary product that can also serve as blocking concealer on the most severe skin irregularities, as well as latex safe skin color for SFX prosthetic applications. The product is available in a range of shades matching almost every color in Dinair's beauty lines (Glamour, Radiance, Soft Glow and Neutralizer).
The Dura line by Temptu is an alcohol based foundation that is available in the 12 shades of the classic S/B line by the same brand. Adjuster colors for color correction are also available, but almost never necessary in that the product offers enough coverage even for the darkest tattoos.
Other products that can be used successfully for tattoo camouflaging are the Endura line by European Body Art, the Hydro Proof line by Kett and the Nebula line by Kryolan. Non-monetized links to all these brands are available in our LINKS page.
HOW TO COVER TATTOOS: A STEP BY STEP GUIDE
The process of covering up a tattoo is pretty much the same for all the products listed above, regardless of their specific formulation. Each step will have a slightly different duration depending on the product you chose to use.
STEP 1: Shaving the area
Shaving the area you are going to cover is always necessary, even when there are no hairs visible to the naked eye. Even the tiniest, thinnest hairs will create texture unless we shave the skin first.
STEP 2: Cleansing the skin.
A couple of minutes after shaving the area you can move on to cleansing with IPA. This will eliminate any oily residue and the skin will be ready for the application.
STEP 3: Light layers
Now you can move on to layering the color in light passes. Color matching before starting is crucial in order to find the shade (or shade mix) that will be right for the skin tone. Don't be tempted to cover the whole tattoo immediately, as this will lead to hot spots and visible product accumulation. Proceed in light passes and keep the airbrush at the right distance. You will see the tattoo fade more and more with each pass, and by working this way you will allow each layer to dry before moving to the next one. As colors oxidize once applied and usually darken, this will give you a better sense of the final result. As I was saying, color correcting is almost always redundant with the products I have listed above.
STEP 4: Setting Powder
Once you have layered enough passes you can move on to setting the area with HD powder or any fine powder. This will eliminate any residual wetness or stickiness. I advise using a flesh tone powder rather than a white or clear one, as these will leave behind a whitish cast. You can apply the powder by brush and later remove any excess with a setting spray or even water.
STEP 5:Spattering (Optional)
Even if the airbrushed coverage doesn't add texture to the skin, its blocking power could create a very uniform effect that might look a little artificial also depending on the color scheme of the skin we are covering. In order to break up this seamlessness a to achieve a more natural result, we can break up the tonality by spattering darker foundation shades (or even blush shades if alcohol based). In order to spatter with your airbrush you simply have to remove the needle and nozzle cap and lower the air pressure to the minimum, then flick the airbrush lever. Of course you will have to be extra careful not to touch the skin with the exposed needle.
CLEANING YOUR TOOLS AND REMOVING THE MAKEUP
When working with alcohol based products or with Dinair's Tatoo Cover it is crucial that you clean the airbrush immediately after the application. Failure to do so will lead to a very long, in-depth cleaning of all the pieces later on, because these colors create a sort of stubborn film in the deepest recesses of the airbrush. Removing the makeup from the skin on the other hand is quite simple if you use IPA or lacking that a very oily makeup remover.
"BEAUTY" CAMOUFLAGE OR SPECIAL EFFECTS?
For best results it is important to keep in mind that covering tattoos for "beauty" purposes is rather a camouflage work, where the primary goal is to prevent the eyes from focusing on what would otherwise be an obvious feature. If your goal is an absolutely perfect coverage that may recreate the exact color scheme of the rest of the skin unto the smallest details, you most likely will not use the technique described above, but rather a a multiple layer spattering of sheer alcohol base colors. This spattering technique is used in Special Effects, and it is not the object of this tutorial.
What is the best primer for airbrush makeup? Where can I buy a silicone free primer? Do I even need a primer with airbrush makeup? These are some of the most common questions I get in my classes and online. The subject is vast, the answer to the questions needn't be. Let's do this!
Prepping the skin for airbrush makeup is as necessary as it is with your traditional beauty routine. The general rule is simply to avoid oil based formulas, which would by nature repel or destabilize any liquid that is layered upon them, and use as little product as possible. If your skin is young, supple and blemish free, a simple light moisturizer used a few minutes before application will do. For any other skin condition (mature, oily, dry and so on), the general rule is to find the right balance between your skin care routine and the finish and consistency of the airbrush product you are going to use. If you came to this post thinking that airbrush makeup is one and the same for all brands, you should know that each product varies according to composition and manufacturer, just like traditional makeup does.
Airbrushable primers
Many brands of airbrush makeup produce their own ready to airbrush primers.These are generally very light formulas designed to moisturize the skin with the best compatibility for the product that will follow. They are mostly water based, such as Tickled Pink or Luminess, or might contain a light amount of dymethicone, such as Belloccio. If you have normal skin and live in a dry climate you may benefit from these formulas and their lightness, however some people might find them a little too thin, and might prefer a more comforting finish. Temptu Brilliant Glow is a new airbrushable primer which is silicone based and has a much thicker consistency than other products. As the name implies, it adds a very subtle luminosity to the skin, and was created to mitigate the matte finish of Temptu's Perfect Canvas foundation. Because of its density, you will need an airbrush and compressor of the same power as Temptu's, however you can still apply this with a brush or sponge if you have a less powerful machine (such as the ones intended for water based makeup only).
Silicone Free primers
What if you want to avoid silicone in your skin care altogether? While silicone is inert and does not cause allergies, some people are sensitive to its prolonged use, meaning they show signs of intolerance such as blemishes and irritation. In these cases, silicone free alternatives will be the only options. While less common, silicone free primers do exist. Smashbox makes Primer Water, a water based product that can be used for both prepping the skin and as a makeup finishing spray, with a super light consistency. Milk Makeup produces the cult favorite Hydro Grip primer, with a more comforting gel like consistency and a more luminous finish, and mostly natural ingredients. If you wish to stay on the natural path, Nurturing Force produces its famous Blot Out Offensive and Twinkle Not Wrinkle primers, which we reviewed extensively in this post. If you are in Europe, two products really stand out. For oily or combination skin, Ten Image ProfessionalMatt Primer provides a super long lasting matte finish. You can use it on your T zone and even very sparingly on the eyelids to mattify the eyelid and prevent any cracking of your airbrushed eyeshadow. Bronx Colors CosmeticsStudio Line Magic Primer has a light, creamy texture, is very moisturizing and provides a lasting luminous finish that will add a very healthy glow to more opaque foundation lines.
Traditional primers
Let's say that my preferred airbrush makeup is water based. Would the presence of silicone in a primer really affect the durability and finish of water based
airbrush makeup? Generally speaking, not really. It really depends on
the concentration of silicone and other plasticizers in the formula.
Personally, I would stay away from super slick formulas such as Urban
Decay's or Benefit, but a the presence of common silicones such as
dymethicone or cyclopentasiloxane in a primer does not affect the finish
or durability, so much so that even the skin care sold by Dinair to be
used with their products contains them. British airbrush makeup brand AirBase produces a perfect cross over between the two worlds: First Base Perfecting Primer is a Swiss formula with hydrating platinum technology that is slick at first but absorbs quickly to a soft, matte finish that is perfect both for their silicone formula and for any traditional makeup. Temptu's classic S/B Primer is a rich, super smooth formula that leaves the skin beautifully soft and mattified, and has the gorgeous light fragrance of its S/B line. It's also reasonably priced, which makes it the preferred choice of many. For the eyelids, regardless of the composition of the airbrushed eyeshadow, Make Up ForeverStep 1 Skin Equalizer Mattifying is a perfect choice, just use it very sparingly and your eyeshadow will not crack even on textured, very oily eyelids.
Special thanks for the advice and information on some of these products to my amazing friends Regina Azizova @reginainneverland and Krysteane Duarte @Iheartairbrush
In 2015 Temptu changed the airbrushing game forever by introducing the portable, all in one Temptu Air system: an ultra quiet, compact, cable free and USB charged device that can be used anywhere with three selectable pressure settings. The system uses Temtpu's patented Airpods, pre filled color cartridges that dispense product through a self contained airbrush mechanism, with a needle being operated by a piston that clicks onto the main body of the device. Of course the use of the pre filled Airpods is limited to whatever color they contain, so in order to allow for more flexibility, shortly after the Air launch Temptu came up with the Airpod Pro, and open reservoir Airpod that can be filled with any other airbrush product, thus allowing shade mixing and creative freedom.
The main advantage of the Airpod and Airpod Pro system is their practicality: while not exactly ecological, these devices can simply be popped in and out of the applicator and do not require any further maintaining or cleaning. Or do they?
The fact is, any kind of airbrush device, from the simplest and cheapest down to the most sophisticated and expensive, is going to run into some sort of maintenance issue eventually. So yes, the Airpods can get clogged, or rather more frequently have output issues that cause the makeup to come out in an irregular, spotty pattern, especially when you don't use them every day, and if you don't take proper care of them. The good news is, with a tiny bit of maintenance and care you can get them to work again beautifully, and performing this maintenance is easy and fast, definitely quicker than servicing a traditional airbrush. This video shows exactly the step by step process of using an Airpod and Airpod Pro for the first time, and of restoring them to full functionality. Have a look, then keep reading for a few extra pro tips.
Alcohol versus Temptu S/B Cleaner
I like to use alcohol for cleaning the Airpod tip because it's quicker to melt the hardened makeup. I don't mind a drop or two also working down the needle tip if I am about to discharge it right away, because it won't really reach the rest of the makeup inside the pod. Not much would happen if it did, but I would rather keep the formula as pristine as possible. When dealing with a hard clog, especially on highlighter pods which contain shimmer particles and tend to get blocked more easily, the easiest way to solve the problem is to pour some S/B cleaner on the needle tip and let it sink deep into the mechanism for a few minutes or even hours. This will loosen the hardened residue and it will restore the needle functionality for a perfect output. I prefer S/B cleaner in this case because it is nothing but pure silicone, so even if it seeps in the color reservoir it will not impact the silicone based formula.
An Airpod Pro for each type of makeup
While I prefer a traditional airbrush to apply water based formulas from other brands, there are occasions when for practicality I might still want to or have to rely on my Airpod Pro. In this case it's always better to have a specific Airpod dedicated solely to each type of makeup. Most of the cloggin issues in airbrushing, regardless of the type of airbrush, are due to the residue that forms when different formulas mix in the smallest recesses of the airbrush. By using only one type of base in each airpod this risk is avoided altogether and you can expect fewer issues with the flow.
Storing the Airpods
The Airpods' shape is sleek, futuristic and elegant, but it also makes them among the most confusing items to store. I don't like to just squash them all together in a bag because while their plastic shells are very tough, cracks on the inside parts are still possible and lead to nasty leaks. In addition the needle tips are protected by the shell but still exposed, and I don't want to risk bending them. Finally, what would be the point of using such a good looking item if it came out of a messy old bag?
This is why I came up with the storage system shown on the video. I was inspired by an Instagram post from Temptu's own CEO, who took a photo of SymiCat's amazingly organized Beauty Box-type kit a fashion show. I topped her own OCD by adding some easy to make individual inserts that protect the Airpods from banging against each other. I also added labels on top of the chrome caps for two reasons: first, the caps often fit the pod they came with but slack on different pods; second, there is little that I loathe more than endlessly pulling off caps to see what color the pods are when I am working. It annoys me and bores the client. So I can only hope Temptu takes me up on the suggestion, and comes up with an official Temptu Airpod Kit Case. Do you think they would send me one after this?
100% Airbrush Makeup including dark circles correction
AIRBRUSH FOR DARK CIRCLES? MOST DEFINITELY
Correcting and concealing dark circles or under eye hyper pigmentation is one of the most common yet hardest tasks when it comes to makeup. Why? The skin in the periocular area is thinner and often more mobile than anywhere else on the face, and subject to very fine to very pronounced creasing because of the muscles underneath. In order to color correct the area with traditional makeup we need products with a high coverage power yet the lightest possible texture, because whatever we apply on this surface will inevitably end up enhancing the creases and lines that can very often be found there, whether it be due to aging or simply to natural constitution.
Enter airbrush makeup. First of all we have to dispel one of the most persistent false ideas about airbrushing: you CAN airbrush around the eyes, and it will NOT hurt, damage or irritate the eyes in any way, in fact it will bother the skin much less than a brush would. All you have to do is know how to do it. Once we have finally established that, let's see why we SHOULD airbrush the eye area. Because of the its complicated texture, the thicker the layers of product we apply, the more they will tend to move and set in the negative spaces thus making the texture more obvious. Airbrushing allows for the highest coverage with the lightest texture and thinnest layering imaginable, allowing for the best results. Moreover, the best products created for airbrushing don't need setting powder, set very quickly and remain in place without settling in fine lines for the longest time. Of course the end result in terms of effectiveness and durability will also depend on the unique characteristics of each individual, as factor such as age, firmness, oil production and so on will vary for everyone, but I can state with a certain confidence that if you try airbrush you may never want to go back to traditional. The following How To describes and illustrates the process used in the video tutorial enclosed in this article, as well as all the other tutorials we published. Please read the disclaimer at the bottom of the page before implementing any technique.
HOW TO AIRBRUSH THE EYE AREA
Preparation: Start with clean, hydrated skin. The moisturizer you use should be the lightest, least oily type that the individual will allow. Once the moisturizer has been thoroughly absorbed, you can judge whether a primer is necessary or not. If you are working on young, firm skin with little to no texture, a primer will be superfluous. Ultimately it depends on the product you use as well, as some (especially the silicone based ones) will act as a primer as well.
Application:When applying the makeup your client should start with closed, relaxed eyes. Give the person a chance to get used to the process and relax by spraying only air first, and describing the process. Your airbrush pressure should be set at the lowest PSI allowed by the type of product you are using. Test on paper first to make sure the nebulization is correct. Very often you will be able to correct the entire area without the person needing to open their eyes, which will be the most comfortable option. Very gently stretch the skin around the eyes to open creases and folds. You can do so by pulling lightly at the temple, the cheek under the eye or by "pinching" the bridge of the nose. Build the coverage using multiple passes and spraying as little as you can each time. Keep a suitable safe distance of at least 2 inches. Don't look to see the color you apply, rather observe the change in the skin and continue until you are satisfied. Angle the airbrush so you can spray under the bottom lashes and cover that area too. When the person opens the eyes, the skin closest to the eye rim might look uneven, as the whole texture can change. You can correct further by spraying light passes on the under eye area after asking the person to look up, so long as you are able to aim the air so that it doesn't hit the eye. You can also delicately place a soft plastic stencil directly below the bottom lashes to deflect any air at all from the eye if needed. Some people are more sensitive than others to air around their eyes, especially if they are wearing contact lenses. Make sure you test this before you start the actual makeup. Instruct the person to simply close their eyes if they feel their eyes water, and take a few seconds between passes so the person can relax. Have a q-tip ready should there be any tearing. Ask the person how they are doing all the time.
Problematic skin or sensitive person: If the person does feel uncomfortable keeping their eyes open while you are spraying, or if the small area under the bottom lashes still needs touching up, you can certainly go in with a velour pouf or with a small brush and fix the area. In the case of very mature skin, you can also use tiny amount of colorless HD powder to set the area further.
If I could award a makeup Product of The Year prize, this new starter set by Temptu would take it for 2017. This set includes seven colors that will allow you to neutralize any discoloration in the fastest time and with the tiniest amount of makeup. Color correcting in airbrushing is not done very often because the airbrush foundations usually offer enough coverage, and layering a color corrector underneath can create unwanted texture. Moreover, because you are not applying a solid stroke of color but many tiny dots when airbrushing, the color correctors tend to be visible through the foundation or appear as grayish spots if applied too heavily. The game changes completely with this amazing set: their texture is so fine that they will literally erase the discoloration while you watch, and then rest invisibly under the foundation that you will apply on top. The Perfect Canvas formula means that these silicone based products behave almost like water based ones: they dry much faster and their finish is much finer that the classic silicone based counterparts. This makes them ideal for application in troubled areas, where they will not create extra texture, nor move or set in the fine lines even after many hours. Just like water based products, they generally won't require any powdering or setting after application. This set is a MUST HAVE for any makeup artist. Personal users who know what shade they need for their particular need will also be able to buy single colors from the Temptu Website. If you are outside the US, please check our LINKS directory for European Temptu retailers.
Disclaimer and recommendation: we have just described a makeup application technique. You should always describe the technique in full before attempting it on someone else, and always ascertain that there are no medical issues or impediments of any kind in working around the person's eyes or your own. Always test on yourself before trying on others, after receiving medical clearance. The above only reflects the writer's personal experience and opinion, and should never be considered as or in place of medical advice.
Temptu has quietly introduced another potential game changer with the release of the first eyeshadow colors in the new Perfect Canvas / Hydralock formula. The Earth Stone Collection includes six earthy, neutral shades that constitute the ideal palette for any natural tone or smokey look. My guess is that the brand wanted to test the waters for an eyeshadow line by starting with the basic go-to colors that any makeup artist cannot do without, encouraging the public to experiment more with their Temptu Air system and with their Airpod Pro.
Once again I find that congratulations are in order, because Temptu absolutely aced this product.
Silicone based eyeshadow?
100% Temptu Airbrush Makeup, Unfiltered
Unfortunately there is a lot of prejudice among makeup artists on the idea of airbrushing eye shadow. Many imagine that the level of skill required to work on such a tiny space as the eyelid surpasses their own, while others have had less than satisfactory experiences with the way the colors behave on the mobile lid, especially when using silicone based formulae.
The classic Temptu S/B line, which I absolutely love, does imply a little learning curve when it comes to using the many beautiful shades available for eyeshadow. In order to avoid creasing, the S/B colors require lid preparation, a thin, layered application, very thorough drying of each layer and possibly setting spray before eyes can be opened in order to avoid creasing. That said, once these precautions have been taken, the color payoff is amazing and the product will stay perfect for hours and will be completely waterproof.
These Perfect Canvas Airshadows simply retain all the good qualities of the S/B line, at the same time doing away with the drawbacks. They dry quickly and do not require extra prep or setting. They do not crease or move, and are also totally waterproof, with a perfect wear for hours and hours. Because of the tonality they are also super easy to blend. In short creating a beautiful eye makeup is literally a breeze even for less experienced airbrushers, who will become proficient at using them after a simple try or two. Moreover, the colors are very comfortable to wear and feel soft on the skin, and do not feel or look in any way heavy, in fact quite the opposite.
Earthy pleasures...
100% Temptu Airbrush Makeup with Temptu Air
The Earth Stone Collection comes as a starter set of 7.5 ml bottles for use with your traditional airbrush or with the Airpod Pro. Each color also comes in Airpod form for use with the Temtpu Air System or with the Airpod airbrush. As far as the application goes, I have shot the enclosed video tutorial to show how the colors can be easily used with the portable system and the Airpod Pro. Personally, I still prefer my traditional airbrush as I feel that I can achieve a more precise, easier to control application. Having said that I do believe it is just a matter of habit, and if you use your pods often enough you should have no particular problem in getting good results with that option.
Perfect Canvas Color Correctors
An important complement in achieving the look of the video was also Temptu's new Perfect Canvas Color Corrector set. This bundle contains seven popular complementary colors that can correct any type of skin irregularity. Once again this is a fantastic product with an amazing correcting power, that works perfectly for the Hydralock/Perfect Canvas Foundation line, which is by nature sheerer in order to allow for a natural finish. The correctors work so fast and so undetectably that it was hard to render in the video we shot. It took only a couple of second to neutralize our model's under eye area perfectly. Once again this product represents a fly in the face of the false myth that you "cannot airbrush around the eyes". You can indeed, and indeed you should, with the right amount of pressure and after a little practice to make sure you are using your tools correctly around the delicate eye area.
More please!
Temptu has already switched their highlighters and blush airpod lines to the new Hydralock formula, which makes them completely compatible with the Airshadow range and opens up a whole lot of possibilities for eyeshadow designs. I really hope that they will soon offer more Airshadow colors, perhaps reissue the former S/B Hi Def and Multicolors selections with the new Hydralock formulation as well, so that we can continue using bold and beautiful colors. I hope this video and review will inspire more people to try airbrushing eyeshadow. Aside form the advantages of speed, durability, hygiene, no transfer and waterproof finish, airbrushing eye looks is jut plain fun!.
Let's tackle one of the most feared and often misunderstood aspects of airbrush makeup: the assembly, disassembly and cleaning of your airbrush.
The bad news: cleaning is boring. There is no way around it. Even if you are a bit obsessive compulsive like me, and even if you love your instrument and enjoy taking care of it, like I do. It is also inevitable. You cannot skip or delay cleaning your airbrush at the end of a session, at least minimally, or you might compromise its functioning. But more on that later.
The good news: cleaning an airbrush is NOT difficult and does not take much longer than cleaning a medium size brush once you get used to the process. If you consider that an airbrush does the job of many brushes, or if you are like me of all of them, you will realize that you will in fact save time by cleaning just one tool as opposed to many.
A simple matter of practice.
Practice is all it takes in order to become fast and efficient at cleaning your precious tool without causing damages. Once you become familiar with the pieces you will get faster and faster. These days it takes me less than a minute to disassemble any of my airbrushes. In the enclosed video I have slowed down the process a bit to show you how it works as clearly and as closely as possible. The video wasn't easy to film and may not be technically perfect, but it sure is clearer than any I have been able to find. The airbrush I am using in the video is the Temptu SP-40. This excellent tool is produced by Sparmax and has the exact same parts and look of its more popular twin, the ubiquitous SP-35 which is the flagship airbrush of most makeup brands, including Temptu, Graftobian, Kryolan, Airbase, Mistair, Monda Studio, Ten Image and Sparmax's own Element Two, making it the most widely used airbrush for makeup. Other brands use their own proprietary airbrushes or more generic tools produced by third parties. These may have parts that differ slightly (such as a floating nozzle instead of a screw in one, or a primary lever that is attached to the piston below), but the process of assembly and cleaning should not change much.
PRO TIPS!
I almost always prefer not to voice over my videos as I would like them to be enjoyed by anyone all over the world regardless of the language they speak, so I'd like to add a few more suggestions here and point out a few things that may be overlooked when watching the video.
TIPS for assembling / disassembling
1: BEWARE OF GRAVITY!
Always work over a tray, a plate or any kind of flat enclosed surface when disassembling your airbrush. There are many tiny pieces, and these will easily fall from your hands. If they hit the floor you may spend hours looking for them, and they may get damaged by the fall.
2: DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN
Except for the hose attachment and the air valve, no part of the airbrush should be wound too tightly or you will compromise the proper functioning of the parts. The spring case and needle chucking nut in particular need to be carefully balanced, or the lever and needle will not function properly. Don't worry, you will develop an awareness of the right balance very quickly after the first few times.
3: BEWARE OF THE NOZZLE
The nozzle is the most delicate part of the airbrush, and the one where almost all the issues with the flow originate.
Once again, be extra careful when unscrewing and screwing in the part. If you apply too much pressure the wrong way, the tip of the nozzle will break and separate from its base, which will remain stuck in the airbrush threading. Pay extra attention to the way the airbrush is turned in the video, and to the direction in which I am turning the wrench when removing or reattaching the nozzle. If the nozzle does break DON'T PANIC, it will be relatively easy to clear the base from the threading using a tooth pick, and you will be able to buy a spare nozzle from your brand's website or directly from a Sparmax retailer.
4: BEWARE OF THE NEEDLE
The needle is the other delicate part in your airbrush. The tip is very fine and if handled improperly it can bend ever so slightly and compromise the product flow. Once again pay attention to how I use my fingers in the video to lean on the airbrush body when inserting the needle. If you do bang the tip of your needle there are easy ways to repair it, or if it has bent too much once again you can always buy a replacement needle from your brand's website or from a Sparmax retailer.
5: DON'T BE SCARED
Aside from that little extra attention that you have to pay the nozzle and needle, the airbrush is not that delicate at all. It's made of steel, and breaking it is actually very difficult. Most times when people think they have "broken" their airbrush they simply tightened a screw too much or too little, or there is some extra cleaning that they neglected to do.
Tips for cleaning:
WHEN TO CLEAN?
The video shows you five different stages of cleaning. You can use them in sequence or one step at a time and in any order you see fit, but the answer to the question is: clean whatever is appropriate whenever it's needed. There is only one rule: you must always clean your airbrush at the end of a day's work, and if you are using alcohol based products, you should clean (or at least rinse) as soon as you're done. This is because alcohol based colors dry very quickly and will clog your system very fast. If it does happen don't worry, everything will go back to normal after a deep clean, but it will take a while. This is another reason why you should always have at least one spare airbrush if you go out on a job. And talking of jobs, a deep clean is not necessary at the end of a session if you are using the airbrush on yourself or for home studying, but you should always do one the day before you work on a client. You want your airbrush to be in tip top shape in a professional situation, and never risk embarrassment. I personally test the airbrushes before I leave for a makeup session, you can never be too sure.
WHAT CLEANER?
Almost every makeup brand has its own cleaning product. This is because each formulation is slightly different (water base, hybrid base, silicone base, alcohol base...). If you just ran out of your specific cleaner or you want to carry just one that will work with all the different formulae, Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) at 99% purity is your best bet, as it will work on anything. A more "natural" alternative to alcohol 99% is Nurturing Force Airbrush and Brush Cleaner. This is a wonderful, non toxic product made of food grade ingredients that comes as a concentrate, so you will need to mix a few drops in the cup with some water. It will be slower than alcohol 99% on silicone and alcohol based products, but it will do its job well and with no chemicals involved.
A SECRET WEAPON
One of the best kept secrets in the airbrush makeup industry is this product by Dinair called Deep Clean. It does an amazing job of dissolving the toughest clogs in just a few minutes. It must be used sparingly because it's not exactly ideal on the inner plastic o-rings that are present in the inner recesses of your airbrush, but if you stick to the suggested times (just a few minutes) it's perfectly safe to use. I use it very often instead of IPA to clean the nozzle as shown in the video.
THE FINAL SOLUTION
Finally, there is nothing better and more effective than an ultra sonic cleaner in order to get your airbrush back to like new functionality. It doesn't have to be an expensive machine, and you can easily find one online. They are sold as "Jewellery Ultra Sonic Cleaners", and any of them will do so long as the frequency is around 42,000 Hz, the well is big enough to contain your airbrush, and
they plug in the mains (there are some battery operated ones too, but they don't seem nearly powerful enough). You only need to use it for the pieces that come in contact with the colors, but of course you can put in all the other ones as well if you wish, just remember to disassemble everything first, or it will be ineffective.
Since the launch of the Temptu Air device in 2015 things have been moving very fast at Temptu, the leading brand in silicone based airbrush makeup. So fast in fact that not only the die hard fans like ourselves, but even the brand's own official website seems at times to have trouble keeping up. I have purchased my Temptu Air kit shortly after our meeting with the lovely Jackie Fan over a year ago which resulted in the great video tutorial reposted below, but I have waited quite a while for this review in order to factor in my own experience, rather than just talk about my first impression. So let's look at all the elements and optional accessories that make up a Temptu Air Kit.
The Temptu Air Kit with Airpod Pro and Hydralock Foundation
The Temptu Air device: as I originally stated in my first impression report, I was immediately struck but how sturdy, powerful and quiet this device really is. The body of the Temptu Air fits very well in the palm of your hand and its weight is ideal. In short, it is a gorgeous little piece of equipment that will win over even those with little or no enthusiasm for technology. As most of you will know, this applicator is designed to work with pre-filled makeup cartridges called Airpods, and also with a top feed, "open cartridge" called Airpod Pro that will allow you to use and custom mix any airbrush makeup formula. Attaching the Airpods to the device is easy, removing them can require a little more strength sometimes, and you must remember to always keep the release button on the device pushed when sliding a cartridge in or out. The power button on the Temtpu Air is also the pressure level selector. There are three pressure settings, marked by attractive and slick led lights right above the button. You must press the button for two seconds to turn the device on or off, and for just one second to select the pressure. This is easy enough to describe, but it may require a little getting used to at the beginning. The amount of color released is regulated by a sliding button called SoftTouch Control, which is quite sensitive and which also will require a little getting used to in order to master subtlety in the application. The Temptu Air recharges with the USB cable and wall adapter enclosed in the box. While charging, the led lights will blink slowly, then stop when the battery is fully charged. It takes around three hours to complete the cycle, and a single charge will last for quite a long time, varying of course according to the usage. To give you an idea, for personal light daily use a single charge could last for over two weeks. When the battery is running out the led indicators starts blinking fast, but the device will keep going for quite a while after that, certainly enough for a full application. The Temptu Air box contains the device, the charge cable and wall adapter, a warranty card and a quick start guide, which is all you really need as it is very easy to use.
The Airpod Pro is a top feed "open" cartridge that on the outside looks like any other Airpod, except for a removable lid on the top that covers the well where the colors will be poured. Unlike an Airpod, the inside of the cartridge is quite simple as there is no reservoir, but of course you still have the needle mechanism, that you can move up and down should it get clogged. As for the rest, the Airpod Pro slides in and out of the Temptu Air (or the traditional Airpod airbrush, if you so choose) the same way any Airpod would. Using the Airpod Pro is much like using any airbrush: you pour the desired colors in, mix them if needed, and spray. Temptu advises using a brush to mix the colors, but you can still back bubble if you wish, which I find quicker. Just remember to do it with the lowest settings or the liquid will spurt out, as the well is not very deep. A small, synthetic brush that does not shed will be very useful to clean the cartridge after use, because flushing it out won't be enough and as you cannot remove the needle like you would in a normal airbrush, you will need those bristles to get into small spaces and clean thoroughly. That said, this is the only cleaning you will need to do, as disassembly is not necessary or even possible here. Because of the reduced slant of the well, you will need quite a few drops for the makeup to reach down and start flowing (Temptu usefully advises enough liquid to cover the needle as a gauge for quantity), and while applying you will have to remember to keep the system pointing at a downward angle to use up all the makeup that may stop flowing otherwise. This is a slight drawback, because you won't be able to add just a couple of drops at a time, and you will have to use more makeup than you would with a traditional airbrush. The Airpod Pro has a nozzle wide enough to spray pretty much any kind of airbrush makeup formula, whether it is made by Temptu or not. This means water based makeup as well. Of course the larger nozzle implies a wider spray, and you will have to get used to this and to the smaller range of movement of the SoftTouch button before you achieve results comparable to your traditional airbrush. As far as longevity, Temptu estimates about 120 uses for each Airpod. I am well into my first Airpod's suggested life span and it still works very well, but of course I clean it well after each use.
Double Zip Makeup Bag: As soon as you take your Temptu Air out of the box you will realize that you need a bag to carry it around and store it, especially as you will want to protect its lovely shiny finish from scratches and nicks. The Double Zip makeup bag has two compartments. The largest one has three sub compartments with elastic bands that can hold up to four Airpods and several starter kit bottles (7.5 ml) as well as the device resting between them. The slimmer zip compartment is just wide enough for brushes, pencils, lipsticks and complements of similar size. The design is rather stylish and functional, but the bag is made of nylon and polyester with no foam cushioning of any kind, which is a bit of a let down especially considering the steep price of $ 45. Thankfully it is often included in various kit combinations, so you can get it at a much reduced price that way.
Airpod Pro Cleaning Pot: This cleaning pot was created especially for the Temptu Air. It is made of durable plastic and comes with a replacement filter (further filters can be purchased through Temptu or at airbrush suppliers, as they are standard size). I love its look and the fact that it's so light to carry around, however there is a major design flaw: the lid has a round opening, while the airpods have a slightly angular shape. This means that when you try to discharge the Airpod Pro you get a very annoying stream of liquid leaking out, defying the whole purpose of a flawlessly clean process. With a price of $25, the only thing that keeps me from calling this a major fail on Temptu's behalf is the fact that it works perfectly with traditional airbrushes, and it has since replaced my heavier glass cleaning pot, but it is not very good at all for its intended original purpose.
Hydralock / Perfect Canvas Foundation: the release of the Temtpu Air System was followed shortly by the launch of the Hydralock foundation, the first new line since the original S/B, Dura and Aqua classics. Hydralock was originally launched in 18 colours divided in Light, Medium and Dark groups. Since then, another five intermediate light/medium shades have been added, and the whole line has been made available in Airpod form under the name Perfect Canvas, to offer an alternative to the classic Silk Sphere Airpod line. So, to clarify, the Airpod Perfect Canvas is simply the Hydralock line poured into Airpod cartridges, and has the same exact colours.
The formula is silicone based, with "peptides to improve skin’s integrity, a purifying botanical blend and the powerful antioxidant, Goji Berry". The application feels very light, and its consistency is comparable to water based formulas, allowing for a very natural, practically undetectable result. In terms of natural appearance, it is probably the silicone based product with the closest finish to the finest water based formulas, and that is no small feat. The claim that Hydralock is "four times more hydrating than hyaluronic acid" seems perhaps a bit outlandish, but I can confirm that it feels very comfortable. Of course the silicone base makes it water proof, and it does last unaltered for a very long time. Compared to the classic SB formula, Hydralock has a more matte finish, is less moveable and more sheer, but can be layered easily to achieve whatever level of coverage is needed. Preference of one over another Temptu line is ultimately a matter of personal taste top quality being the common denominator. My only hope is that the classic S/B and original Silk Sphere lines will NEVER be discontinued, because are absolute classics, and their amazing finish is unique.
The Hydralock / Perfect Canvas line continues to expand and evolve as we write. Perfect Canvas Highlighters and Illuminators (called Airglow) have been released with the same names and shades of the original SilkSphere Airpod line, which they seem to have replaced. A set of Hydralock eyeshadows is being launched this week end at the MakeupShow in New York, and will be available on the website in the next few months.
Pro Tip /Big Question: Can the Temptu Air actually replace your traditional airbrush system?
This depends on your level of reliance on your kit. If you use an airbrush only for base, blush and contour, perhaps it could. If you are an airbrush integralist like myself, you would miss the finesse and control that only a classic hand held airbrush can achieve. That said, the Temtpu Air offers unbeatable practical advantages, especially in those situations where you have to do multiple makeups in a very short time, which make it a must-have, even if just as a valuable addition to your trusted aribrush kit.
Pro Tip: Airpod Trouble Shooting. If the color stops flowing in your AirPod and none of the tips provided in the instructions work, you can get it to work again easily this way: set your airpod upright (needle facing up) and pour two or three drops of S/B cleaner on the needle tip, then leave it be for a five or ten minutes, then go back and move the needle up and down a couple of times, attach and spray. The color will quickly start flowing again. If you don't have SB cleaner you can also use alcohol 99, but be sure to use only a few drops as this will travel down the needle chute and mix with the color...
Pro Tip: Where to buy. Beside the Temptu website, you can find Temptu Air and many products from the Hydralock and Airpod lines on the Camera Ready Cosmetics site. CRC ship worldwide at the best rates, have fabulous customer service and several pro discount programs.
It is a lovely late April afternoon in Los Angeles, and we are about to meet with Temptu's Global Education & Artistry Manager Jackie Fan, just a few days before her move to the East Coast where she will join the Temptu Team at its New York head quarters. Soft spoken and beautiful, Jackie has agreed to share some thoughts on airbrushing and on Temptu's remarkable, newly released range of innovative products..
Born in Tai Pei, Taiwan, Jackie moved to California at the age of 16. She moved LA a few years later to study at FIDM (Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising) makeup school and has been living there until her move to New York.
Jackie Fan at Temptu
How did you become involved in makeup? What was your first inspiration?
I have always been interested in design, art and beauty. Ever since I was little I loved to draw, so I started out as a sketching artist I guess. Then I went to beauty school and that's what I am most passionate about. The power to transform and improve someone's self esteem. Just a few subtle changes can change someone's day for the better, and that in turn makes my day.
Was anybody in your family involved in beauty or art?
My father was a banker, my mother was the artistic one in the family. She taught art in kindergarten, so I guess I took after her. My brother is a very successful entrepreneur, so I guess I am the only one in this industry which I love. You can't stay in this industry if you are not passionate about what you do. Initially there was a bit of resistance because I wanted to be a painter, and they didn't see that as a very profitable career, but then when I turned 10 they decided to let me do what I was passionate about and became really supportive.
When did you start airbrushing?
Jackie Fan and Temptu Airpod
It was in 2009. I was first introduced to the Temptu Airpod line, and I was really fascinated by how easy it is to apply and use. Then I got to mix colors with the SB line, and with my background in color theory I just loved the endless possibilities.
What was the first impression you had about airbrushing as a technique?
I was actually thinking of Photoshop, because I knew how to airbrush a photo on the computer, and then I saw an actual airbrush being used by another artist on a Job and I was blown away. First of all I love how hygienic it is. No contamination, no contact, no germs.Then I love the finish, and how it reads on hi def screens. It looks wonderful. So I thought I have to try this!
Makeup by Jackie Fan with Temptu
How hard was the journey that brought you to playing a prominent role with such an important leading brand as Temptu?
It was a lot of hard work. When I talk to younger generations of makeup artists they think of this job as very glamorous, but actually it's not. It's a lot of hard work -physical hard work- and also creatively you have to produce a lot of new ideas. I always try to reinvent myself, to keep up and stay current and relevant. Doing what I do here at Temptu is important but I also want to keep freelancing on the side, that's what keeps me current and relevant. I have been with Temptu for a while, I love what they do and their art direction, and they have the same idea to keep evolving and reinventing themselves, which I find very humbling.
Thinking back of when you started with airbrushing, what is the aspect of the technique that you found more difficult to learn?
When I was starting observing the skin was the most difficult thing. We're used to seeing where the product is going [when we apply traditional makeup], but with airbrush it's harder to do that so I had to remind myself to look for the change in the skin. Also control and maintenance of the equipment, which can be the most intimidating part. Once you have these things down, in my opinion airbrushing is so much easier than traditional makeup.
Makeup by Jackie Fan with Temptu
You've been teaching airbrushing to many makeup artists. What aspect of teaching to you enjoy the most, and which is your least favorite?
I love meeting new artists, we learn from each other. That's the best aspect. My least favorite aspect has to do with the fact that English is not my first language, so I tend to dwell in my mind a little bit and worry that my pronunciation or grammar isn't perfect, but I overlook that part easily.
Now for a question we ask all the gurus we interview: what do you think is the most common misconception regarding airbrush makeup?
I think some people associate airbrush with "cakey" and fake looking finish. That's not true at all, because airbrush is a fine mist of makeup that is gently layered upon the skin, so the artists has total control of what the final result might be. It's really about the formula, and I can't speak for other companies but Temptu has this really amazing finish, and since you can mix colors it will work for any skin tone or skin type.
I find that when it comes to silicone based formulas a lot of artists are very intimidated by eyeshadow application. I think that if you set it properly SB can work beautifully for eyes, but a lot of people are still scared and run back to their brushes...
You're absolutely right. I do encounter a lot of artists that use airbrushing just for the base, but when I am teaching I always demonstrate a full airbrushed makeup, including eyes, so that they know it's a possibility. Once I was on a job with a makeup artist who was having problems blending a certain powder eyeshadow, so I helped her out by airbrushing on top of that to achieve a perfect finish!
Makeup by Jackie Fan using Temptu
Temptu has a very wide range of tool and products that can be used with or without an airbrush. You have an amazing FX range and and alcohol based line for tattoo covering for example. What is the line of products that you are most excited about apart from the SB line?
I'm so glad you asked that question! We are just about to launch the Airpod Pro. It's basically a top feed gun in pod form, so you don't have to deep clean it but you can just flush it with cleaner. It's reusable and you can mix any color together from any of our formulas or any other brand. It will fit with any airpod attachment, whether it be the traditional airpod gun or the new Temptu Air. There is also a new foundation line called HydraLock Foundation, it has 18 shades and it has a beautiful demi matte finish for a more luxurious user experience. [The Airpod Pro and HydraLock are now available through the Temptu US Website and its distributors in Europe]
Makeup by Jackie Fan using Temptu
Talking about other Temptu lines, is there a product that is a little underrated, or one that you feel people should know a little more about?
You can actually mix a foundation color simply by mixing the primary colors that come with the this set, but a lot of people find it a little intimidating. I personally love it.
I even mix adjusters with concealers to subtly change a tone and correct different tones. I love that set, even though it may not seem as exciting as the blush and highlighter set, but the creative opportunities are amazing.
If you could start over is there anything you would do differently?
I wouldn't really change anything because everything that happened has brought me this far and I really like where I am, but for anybody starting out I would encourage to go outside of their comfort zone, for example to not be shy about reaching out to people they want to work with, or agencies that they admire to try and get on their roster by assisting people, or even to pursue their dreams in a more determined way.
Do you have a professional dream you have yet to achieve?
When I was little I wanted to be a farmer, lol. Eventually I would like to do even more creative projects, but so far I pretty much feel like I am living my dream...
