Welcome to airbrush makeup! In these pages you will find unbiased indipendent airbrush makeup reviews, video tutorials, and everything about airbrushing makeup not just from the US but from Europe and the world at large. The guru is in...
MaqPro is a French company that has been producing high-end professional makeup since the 1970's. The brand started as a collaboration with legendary French makeup artist Michel Durelle ad the perfume and beauty producers Nine and Pierre Brunner. Today the company continues as a family business led by the couple's children, and it manufactures its vast catalogue of products strictly in France. In the last few years MaqPro has become very well known among professional makeup artists all over the world thanks to the Fard Crème palettes, the cream, color theory based makeup available in a vast array of shades that allow, with some skill-full mixing, to accomplish a durable and natural looking makeup application on the whole face.
The Creamy Air product line was launched in 2020 as the liquid evolution of the Fard Crème product. Creamy Air can be applied via airbrush but also with traditional tools, and like the Fard Crème it is available in a vast range of shades that includes skin tones, bright colors and everything in between, allowing once again for a complete makeup application using only this product. The color list stretches to an amazing 106 shades, which puts this product among the first in the airbrush makeup market for the variety of tones, all available in 10 ml / 0.33 Fl Oz size,
The Creamy Air formula has a variable composition depending on the colors, but we could generally call it the epitome of hybrid formulations, as it includes elements such as water, alcohol, glycerine ad various types of silicones. The resulting product'has a very low viscosity, which means that it can be airbrushed with any tool set up and it will run without problems in all the airbrushes commonly used for makeup. Like most silicone based products, Creamy Air does not clog the airbrush, where it can rest without drying up for many hours, allowing you to clean the stylus even the day after application, as I myself have experienced. However, as an airbrush educator I would still advise users to clean their tools as soon as possible after application to avoid all risks. Another trait in common with silicone based products is Creamy Air's softness and moveability, allowing for touch ups up to several minutes after application.
The Creamy Air Finish is luminous and very natural. Of course the application can be matted down with a light pass of HD powder if needed. The durability of the application is excellent, and so is its water and rub resistance, so much so that some distributors are selling skin tones sets recommending it especially for tattoo cover. Creamy Air feels very light on the skin, and just like the best airbrush makeup products it offers great coverage without looking obvious. You can see what I am talking about with your very own eyes in the video tutorial I am enclosing here, which I am proud to be able to call the very first to demonstrate a total look with this line, including eyeshadow and eyebrows.
My opinion Creamy Air is extremely positive, and I thing this product places itself very well in the airbrush makeup market. As far a the availability of the line, however, the product is not supported by a very efficient marketing. The many colors are not organised in a clear chart that may help professionals in deciding what to buy, and the packaging itself, with the color number printed in small characters on the back label, makes its practical use and quick selection anything but easy. I am hopeful, however, that the distributors of MaqPro will be soon able to makeup for this shortcoming of the producers of the line, perhaps by offering pre selected kits of colors that may simplify the choice available to the professionals.
Background -The SilkSphere foundation was created in 2009 to complement the launch of the first Temtpu kit for consumers. The product came exclusively in Airpod format, i.e. a pre-filled capsule that would attach to a proprietary airbrush and that could be used until empty without any need for maintenance, giving the customers all the advantages of airbrush makeup without any of the perceived drawbacks, such as tools maintenance and cleaning. The formula was had a very dewy finish and was engineered to be user friendly, so it would remain very malleable after application in order to allow the home user to easily fix any mistakes. It had a very distinctive floral scent, which was problematic for some, including myself, but was already remarkable for its unprecedented coverage and for the fact that it was an all-in-one product, not needing any primer, concealer or color corrector. SilkSphere was reformulated in 2015 to coincide with the launch of what is now the very popular battery operated, palm top device Temptu Air. The shade range was slightly revised and the floral scent significantly diminished, but it remained available only in Airpod format, which meant that you would not be able to use it with a traditional airbrush.
New Release -This year after some wait, no doubt due in large part to the market difficulties created by the global pandemic, Temptu was finally able to update the formula once again and to release it at long last in bottle format, allowing everybody to experience it regardless of their preferred tools.
Range and Formula -The new SilkSphere is available again in 18 proprietary shades that will match any skin tone, with a good color consistency when compared to the previous version. Many of the colors have a very neutral undertone to reduce the need to mix tones, as they were initially created for the Airpod cartridges which did not allow for direct mixing, and this makes using them very easy. Having said that, there are now hues with a decidedly warm or cool undertone as well, so you can achieve any amount of precision needed in your color matching. The finish of the formula is still dewy, however this should not scare anyone who is used to matte foundation, because ultimately the amount of glow will depend on each individual complexion, and because any perceived shine can be easily mattified with the lightest pass of any fine HD powder (such as Temptu's own Invisible Difference). The new SilkSphere feels finer than its previous versions, but still retains its high coverage and its all-in-one characteristic, needing no priming, no concealing and no color correcting in most cases. Probably for this very reason, the formula's texture is a little more obvious than that of thinner airbrush foundations, but it still feels lighter than traditional products and looks perfect on its first passes, achieving a finish that would require quite a lot more work and skill to match using a traditional product.
In the video tutorial below I am showing you a step by step total look achieved using SilkSphere in bottle form for foundation and the Perfect Canvas range in AirPod for everything else.
Silksphere vs other Temptu Formulas -Compared to the other Temptu foundations, Silksphere ranks second to Perfect Canvas for shade selection, first in dewiness and first in viscosity, being the "thickest" of the three, but the difference with SB in this respect is barely perceptible. Lastly, but no less importantly for some, the floral scent is now completely gone, making the product application pleasantly scent free. As for the format, the choice is now up to you. The Airpod capsules allow for perfect dispensation every time, and while decidedly more expensive, the pod system means that you will achieve an optimal result using far less product. The bottle format price is significantly lower, and allows you to use this product with any tool and to mix the shades freely. Temptu's 1/4 oz /7.5 ml starter kits, available for this line in pack of six colors each, mean that everybody can experience this formula with a very reasonable investment.
My Opinion -As for my personal, unsponsored opinion, I have been a huge fan and advocate of this product for years, and I could not be happier and more grateful for this new reboot. I especially like to use this formula on problematic skin, where I have never needed to color correct or conceal thanks to SilkSphere's exceptional coverage. The extraordinary luminosity of this formula makes it a truly transformative makeup, and the only one that actually does conceal fine lines and rough texture. Because of this its silicone component, I would personally not recommend the daily use of this product on very acneic, irritation-prone skin, but for special occasions there is no other product that will allow you to achieve the same wow factor in as little time and with as little effort, so much so that I like to call SilkSphere "model skin in a bottle".
How is the beauty industry going to be impacted by the Covid-19 virus? As the world is still struggling to gauge the scale of the pandemic and its implications for the economy, it might seem too early to ponder this question. Yet there is one thing that already appears obvious and tragic: the way we interact with each other is not going to be the same for a very long time.
In a recent post on Facebook, the creator of a once very popular beauty brand posed an interesting question: how many people will want you to touch their face after this? He then proceeded to make an interesting parallel with the aftermath of 9/11 and what that meant for the professional lives of makeup artists in the US, speculating that this current crisis may well have far more lasting implications on a global scale. Will our perception of the importance of self image forever be affected by the long quarantine that we are experiencing? Will working from home and apart become the new norm, and will the importance of appearing in person be dramatically reduced for the foreseeable future?
While it is really too early to tell, the questions are certainly valid and will soon be urgent for a whole sector of our economy both at corporate and individual business level.
My own intuition is perhaps obvious, given who I am and what I struggle to represent: I strongly believe that now more than ever, airbrush makeup represents a unique opportunity in the face of the challenges ahead. The fact that airbrushing offers the cleanest application available represents a stunning opportunity in the face of future hardship, if you think that an accomplished airbrush makeup artist can execute a whole makeup almost without touching the face -and yes, that can include eyes down to the eyeliner and eyebrows.
For those who stumbled upon these page and are wondering what I am talking about, in airbrush application the makeup goes from the bottle to the airbrush reservoir, and is then sprayed on the skin without any need for brushes, sponges and most importantly fingers. With proper care there is no cross contamination whatsoever and every client receives the benefit of pristine tools and products. Add that to single-use lip and mascara applicators, and you have created the cleanest possible makeup application. You can check any of my videos to see how very little, if at all, I need to touch my model's skin.
Of course I still believe mainstream beauty conglomerates will never give this technique a real chance, due to its learning curve, however small, and its reduced profit margins: in airbrushing, a single airbrush does the job of a whole brush set, and in most cases one product does the job of three or four traditional ones, for example foundation barely needing primer, powder and setting spray.
However those courageous brands and forward -thinking makeup artists that have decided to produce and invest in this medium, are now faced with a unique opportunity to satisfy a potentially radical change in people's perception: the need for the maximum hygiene standards met by maximum makeup performance.
It is to salute these very brands that I am publishing this year's update to our LINKS page (no monetization or sponsorship involved) , where you will find a list of every airbrush makeup related brand and business in the world.
As for the makeup artists, this whole website is a free resource that I have created to help you in your first approach to airbrushing, or to take your skills to the highest level if you already have some knowledge of this amazing medium.
Please help me keep our LINKS page current by reading it and suggesting updates and edits.
Bristish airbrush makeup brand Mistair was the very first brand I reviewed on these pages when I started publishing this website. I had met the Mistair team at that year's edition of Cosmoprof in Italy, and as they were the only brand dealing in airbrush makeup at that show I spent quite some time getting to know their products and lines.
Today Mistair has a more streamlined yet still extensive product line that includes 14 foundation shades, 8 colors for blush and and highlighters respectively, 7 for eyebrows, and 8 adjuster and corrector shades. There are also a water based and an alcohol based line for body painting, and a very interesting product to create effects on hair called Hairlites.
The Mistair Formula
Mistair Airbrush Makeup
All the beauty makeup colors are silicone based. The formula, which I think has been updated since I first used it, is comparable to Temptu's S/B line, but it's lighter in texture and quicker to dry. The foundation has a very natural finish and feels super light on the skin, with buildable coverage that starts sheer and intensifies to full with a few passes. The blush colors are delicately pigmented but can be built up to achieve more intensity as well. The opalescent highlighter colors offer beautiful shades, some of which are duo chrome such as the lovely Cornsilk, pearly white with pink overtones. As with any airbrush beauty product, all the colors can be used for all purposes, and the faster drying time makes them suitable and easy to use on the eyelids to create fast and natural eye shadows. As I didn't have the eyebrow color kit, I was able to fill the eyebrows well with the darkest foundation shade, and the result was very natural and durable, as you can see in the enclosed video tutorial.
The Onyx Kit
MIstair Onyx Airbrush Kit
The airbrush kit offering from Mistair is currently limited to three models. Starting at 159 British Pounds, The Onyx Airbrush Makeup Starter Kit is the least expensive of the three, and is the entry level option. It features a standard compressor with an adjustable airflow, a rubber tube suitable for "plug-in" connectors and a Continuous Flow airbrush, incorrectly described as "single action" on the website. For those who still struggle with the terminology, Continuous Flow means that the air flows out of the airbrush unobstructed as soon as the compressor is turned on, and that you use the lever to regulate the amount of color your are dispensing. This is a mode chosen by most beauty companies and it is perfectly effective and efficient for beauty makeup. The compressor is also mistakenly credited with a maximum working pressure of just 15 PSI, but I have personally tested it with a pressure gauge and have seen that it reaches 20 PSI comfortably, which is a plus. It still isn't particularly powerful and might struggle with thicker formulas, but it won't have any problems with the Mistair products, for which it was intended.
100% Airbrushed with Mistair
There are several combinations to choose from as far as the makeup bundled with the kit is concerned. The Onyx Starter Kit comes with a custom made packet of colors including four foundation shades (selectable from the fair, medium or deep groups), and one matching blush, highlighter and eyebrow color. Of course the more colors you get the more options for fun and practice you will have, and the more expensive De Luxe version of the Onyx kit offers more shades, with the same equipment. Like many brands, Mistair bundles its colors in very convenient starter kits, and in this brand's case they are very reasonably priced, so it will be possible to add on to your kit later without hurting the wallet too much. The starter kits packaging has been updated in recent years, and everything looks very slick. Unfortunately they still use the same bottles for their 7.5 ml packs. These infernal little bottles seem to let in air somehow, and after a while you will notice that the aqueous part of the colors decreases even if you don't use them. I suggest tightening the caps of each bottle as soon as you receive them, you will notice that you can twist the caps at least an extra half a turn, which hopefully will slow down the evaporation. Also very annoying are the stickers at the bottom of each bottle, which will come off even before you take them out of the package, making the color identification very confusing. I advise you to glue them on with a strong glue as soon as you receive them. On a much happier packaging note, Mistair has created a beautiful case for the Onyx with custom molded foam inserts, which are detachable. The case is very sleek and once again reasonably priced. I would definitely recommend it for the sleekest possible look of your airbrush kit.
Mistair Ingredients:
Purified Water, Cyclotetrasiloxane (and)
Cyclopentasiloxane, Glycerin, Polysobutene, Cetyl Dimethicone, Copoyol, Sodium
Chloride, C12-15, Alkyl Bensoate, VP/VA Copolymer, Methyl Paraben, Disodium
EDTA, Propyl Paraben, +/- Acrylates Copolymer. May contain: Titanium Dioxide
(and) Methicone, Yellow Iron oxide, Red Iron Oxide, Black Iron Oxide, Carbon
black, CL 77891, CL 45410, CL 77007, CL 77288
Elementwo is an international airbrush makeup brand that made its debut in 2012, and has kept a relatively low (but very stylish) profile catering mostly to professionals in the several countries where it is distributed. The brand was created in Taiwan and immediately distributed in the United States. Since then it gained a remarkable following in eastern countries such as Kuwait, Bahrain and even Japan. I had a first meeting with the brand at the Makeup Show in New York in 2014, and I am very happy to be able to review it in these pages now.
Please know that a Pro Program offering 20% discount on all purchases is available from Elementwo Website.Elementwo ships to Europe at reasonable rates directly from its website (Custom fees and limitations apply).
High Quality Instruments
Elementwo Airbrush Makeup PRO System
The first thing that stands out about this brand is the high quality of the tools comprised in the kit.
Elementwo has a very close relationship with manufacturer Sparmax (also from Taiwan), which is the company that provides tools for most of today's popular brands of airbrush makeup. The reason of Sparmax's ubiquitous presence in the beauty industry is simple: they provide the best value for money around when it comes to tools for airbrush application. Elementwo offers two versions of its kit. The Perfect Skin Airbrush System features a one-setting compressor and a continuous airflow ("single action") airbrush. ThePRO System, which is the one I received and that is featured in these images, features the same powerful compressor (up to 35 PSI output) with the addition of a pressure valve regulator right on the chassis of the compressor itself. The regulator has the same sensitivity of the hand held pressure valve typically found on quick-connect adapters, and will require a minimal practice to get used to the range it offers.
The airbrush is the very reliable and sleek workhorse SP35, and is provided with a double action valve that is easily modifiable into a continuous airflow mode if so desired. Both compressor options have a pre-disposition for a battery unit, which can be purchased for Elementwo's website and which can be extremely useful for location or on set work. The kit comes in a very sleek, elegant packaging that includes a strong, long air hose, a power unit, an airbrush holder and a nozzle wrench, and a concise printed page with operating instructions.
Elementwo Makeup Lines
The idea at the core of Elementwo, (and the reason behind its name, I suspect), was to offer the same exact lines of makeup in a water base option (Skin Harmony) and a silicone based alternative (Canvas Blend), in order to cater to everyone's preferences and resolve once and for all the eternal struggle between silicone and water. Today the Skin Harmony line seems to have been put on hold in favor of the silicone based Canvas Blend option, which is the product we received and the one you can see being used in the enclosed video.
100% Elementwo Airbrush Makeup
The range of makeup by Elementwo features 16 foundation shades, 10 blush colors, 3 bronzers and two highlighters. To complement these, an impressive range of 11 shimmer and 18 matte pigments have been added to be used for any option imaginable, from eyeshadows to body art.
The Canvas Blend makeup is very fluid and the application feels very light, with a consistency that is very similar to that of water based products. When applying foundation, this allows for a very fine, imperceptible finish and a very natural overall effect, with the ability to cover imperfections well without having to color-correct first and without the risk of creating unsightly accumulations. You can see how well the coverage works when I am addressing my model's acne breakout in the enclosed video. The foundation shades have a mostly neutral undertone which adapts beautifully to most skin colors, with more pink or yellow options available as well. The blush and highlighter colors are very subtle and delicate, and again they create a very natural effect that allows them to be applied without fear on top of the foundation (as opposed to underneath, which I usually prefer). The bronzer options are more pigmented, but still very natural looking when applied carefully.
100% Elementwo Airbrush Makeup
Finally the pigments offer endless creative possibilities, with an easy to blend, sheer finish that can be built up to full intensity and brightness simply by layering light passes, as I am doing for the eyeshadow in the video. As with any silicone product, it is a good idea to prep the lid with a mattifying lotion, dry each pass thoroughly and set at the end with a fixing spray or with a light dusting of HD powder. Once set, the eyeshadow will be water proof and stay perfect until removed.
Like most silicone based products, the Canvas Blend colors are long lasting and once fully dry they become virtually water proof. Because of their light texture they are able to set in place quickly and the tendency to gather in fine lines is very reduced, requiring very minimal or no setting at all even in delicate areas such as under the eyes. This allows for a very natural finish while retaining high coverage. All the product lines are also completely fragrance free. The colors from each group are available individually in 1.15 fl.oz. (30 ml.) bottles, but they can also be purchased in pre selected, generous Starter Kits of .34 fl. oz. (10 ml) which are very convenient and which will allow you to try most shades with a smaller investment. You can select several of these Starter Kits for an even more convenient price when you purchase your kit from the Elementwo website.
Elementwo Kit Complements
There are a couple more products that you can purchase directly from the website individually or as part of your kit.
The H2O Infusion Moisturizer is a very light, clear liquid enriched with Hyaluronate Sodium and Aloe Extract that can be airbrushed before or (preferably) after your makeup application to add extra hydration and a very natural sheen to your foundation. The Flawless Finish HD Translucent Powder is a very fine fixing product that will set your makeup without altering its texture in any way. It is not absolutely necessary for foundation, as the makeup is pretty stable by itself, but it can provide you with added security and it will help a lot to maintain a matte finish on oily skin types trhoughout the day. Finally the Elementwo Airbrush Cleanser is the ideal solution to keep your airbrush in top shape. You will not need it at every color change, but it will be useful when switching from a dark to a light color, and of course at the end of each session.
Elementwo Ingrendients:
Purified water, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclopentasiloxane, methicone, isoparaffinic hydrocarbon, glycerin, polyisobutene, cetyl dimethicone copolyol, acrylates copolymer, isoparaffinic hydrocarbon, talc, VP/VA copolymer, methylparaben, disodium EDTA, propylparaben. May Contain (+/-): Red 40 lake CI 16035, yellow 5 lake CI 19140, yellow iron oxide, CI 77492, mica CI 77019, black iron oxide CI 77499, red iron oxide CI 77491 titanium dioxide CI 77891
100% Airbrush Makeup including dark circles correction
AIRBRUSH FOR DARK CIRCLES? MOST DEFINITELY
Correcting and concealing dark circles or under eye hyper pigmentation is one of the most common yet hardest tasks when it comes to makeup. Why? The skin in the periocular area is thinner and often more mobile than anywhere else on the face, and subject to very fine to very pronounced creasing because of the muscles underneath. In order to color correct the area with traditional makeup we need products with a high coverage power yet the lightest possible texture, because whatever we apply on this surface will inevitably end up enhancing the creases and lines that can very often be found there, whether it be due to aging or simply to natural constitution.
Enter airbrush makeup. First of all we have to dispel one of the most persistent false ideas about airbrushing: you CAN airbrush around the eyes, and it will NOT hurt, damage or irritate the eyes in any way, in fact it will bother the skin much less than a brush would. All you have to do is know how to do it. Once we have finally established that, let's see why we SHOULD airbrush the eye area. Because of the its complicated texture, the thicker the layers of product we apply, the more they will tend to move and set in the negative spaces thus making the texture more obvious. Airbrushing allows for the highest coverage with the lightest texture and thinnest layering imaginable, allowing for the best results. Moreover, the best products created for airbrushing don't need setting powder, set very quickly and remain in place without settling in fine lines for the longest time. Of course the end result in terms of effectiveness and durability will also depend on the unique characteristics of each individual, as factor such as age, firmness, oil production and so on will vary for everyone, but I can state with a certain confidence that if you try airbrush you may never want to go back to traditional. The following How To describes and illustrates the process used in the video tutorial enclosed in this article, as well as all the other tutorials we published. Please read the disclaimer at the bottom of the page before implementing any technique.
HOW TO AIRBRUSH THE EYE AREA
Preparation: Start with clean, hydrated skin. The moisturizer you use should be the lightest, least oily type that the individual will allow. Once the moisturizer has been thoroughly absorbed, you can judge whether a primer is necessary or not. If you are working on young, firm skin with little to no texture, a primer will be superfluous. Ultimately it depends on the product you use as well, as some (especially the silicone based ones) will act as a primer as well.
Application:When applying the makeup your client should start with closed, relaxed eyes. Give the person a chance to get used to the process and relax by spraying only air first, and describing the process. Your airbrush pressure should be set at the lowest PSI allowed by the type of product you are using. Test on paper first to make sure the nebulization is correct. Very often you will be able to correct the entire area without the person needing to open their eyes, which will be the most comfortable option. Very gently stretch the skin around the eyes to open creases and folds. You can do so by pulling lightly at the temple, the cheek under the eye or by "pinching" the bridge of the nose. Build the coverage using multiple passes and spraying as little as you can each time. Keep a suitable safe distance of at least 2 inches. Don't look to see the color you apply, rather observe the change in the skin and continue until you are satisfied. Angle the airbrush so you can spray under the bottom lashes and cover that area too. When the person opens the eyes, the skin closest to the eye rim might look uneven, as the whole texture can change. You can correct further by spraying light passes on the under eye area after asking the person to look up, so long as you are able to aim the air so that it doesn't hit the eye. You can also delicately place a soft plastic stencil directly below the bottom lashes to deflect any air at all from the eye if needed. Some people are more sensitive than others to air around their eyes, especially if they are wearing contact lenses. Make sure you test this before you start the actual makeup. Instruct the person to simply close their eyes if they feel their eyes water, and take a few seconds between passes so the person can relax. Have a q-tip ready should there be any tearing. Ask the person how they are doing all the time.
Problematic skin or sensitive person: If the person does feel uncomfortable keeping their eyes open while you are spraying, or if the small area under the bottom lashes still needs touching up, you can certainly go in with a velour pouf or with a small brush and fix the area. In the case of very mature skin, you can also use tiny amount of colorless HD powder to set the area further.
If I could award a makeup Product of The Year prize, this new starter set by Temptu would take it for 2017. This set includes seven colors that will allow you to neutralize any discoloration in the fastest time and with the tiniest amount of makeup. Color correcting in airbrushing is not done very often because the airbrush foundations usually offer enough coverage, and layering a color corrector underneath can create unwanted texture. Moreover, because you are not applying a solid stroke of color but many tiny dots when airbrushing, the color correctors tend to be visible through the foundation or appear as grayish spots if applied too heavily. The game changes completely with this amazing set: their texture is so fine that they will literally erase the discoloration while you watch, and then rest invisibly under the foundation that you will apply on top. The Perfect Canvas formula means that these silicone based products behave almost like water based ones: they dry much faster and their finish is much finer that the classic silicone based counterparts. This makes them ideal for application in troubled areas, where they will not create extra texture, nor move or set in the fine lines even after many hours. Just like water based products, they generally won't require any powdering or setting after application. This set is a MUST HAVE for any makeup artist. Personal users who know what shade they need for their particular need will also be able to buy single colors from the Temptu Website. If you are outside the US, please check our LINKS directory for European Temptu retailers.
Disclaimer and recommendation: we have just described a makeup application technique. You should always describe the technique in full before attempting it on someone else, and always ascertain that there are no medical issues or impediments of any kind in working around the person's eyes or your own. Always test on yourself before trying on others, after receiving medical clearance. The above only reflects the writer's personal experience and opinion, and should never be considered as or in place of medical advice.
Temptu has quietly introduced another potential game changer with the release of the first eyeshadow colors in the new Perfect Canvas / Hydralock formula. The Earth Stone Collection includes six earthy, neutral shades that constitute the ideal palette for any natural tone or smokey look. My guess is that the brand wanted to test the waters for an eyeshadow line by starting with the basic go-to colors that any makeup artist cannot do without, encouraging the public to experiment more with their Temptu Air system and with their Airpod Pro.
Once again I find that congratulations are in order, because Temptu absolutely aced this product.
Silicone based eyeshadow?
100% Temptu Airbrush Makeup, Unfiltered
Unfortunately there is a lot of prejudice among makeup artists on the idea of airbrushing eye shadow. Many imagine that the level of skill required to work on such a tiny space as the eyelid surpasses their own, while others have had less than satisfactory experiences with the way the colors behave on the mobile lid, especially when using silicone based formulae.
The classic Temptu S/B line, which I absolutely love, does imply a little learning curve when it comes to using the many beautiful shades available for eyeshadow. In order to avoid creasing, the S/B colors require lid preparation, a thin, layered application, very thorough drying of each layer and possibly setting spray before eyes can be opened in order to avoid creasing. That said, once these precautions have been taken, the color payoff is amazing and the product will stay perfect for hours and will be completely waterproof.
These Perfect Canvas Airshadows simply retain all the good qualities of the S/B line, at the same time doing away with the drawbacks. They dry quickly and do not require extra prep or setting. They do not crease or move, and are also totally waterproof, with a perfect wear for hours and hours. Because of the tonality they are also super easy to blend. In short creating a beautiful eye makeup is literally a breeze even for less experienced airbrushers, who will become proficient at using them after a simple try or two. Moreover, the colors are very comfortable to wear and feel soft on the skin, and do not feel or look in any way heavy, in fact quite the opposite.
Earthy pleasures...
100% Temptu Airbrush Makeup with Temptu Air
The Earth Stone Collection comes as a starter set of 7.5 ml bottles for use with your traditional airbrush or with the Airpod Pro. Each color also comes in Airpod form for use with the Temtpu Air System or with the Airpod airbrush. As far as the application goes, I have shot the enclosed video tutorial to show how the colors can be easily used with the portable system and the Airpod Pro. Personally, I still prefer my traditional airbrush as I feel that I can achieve a more precise, easier to control application. Having said that I do believe it is just a matter of habit, and if you use your pods often enough you should have no particular problem in getting good results with that option.
Perfect Canvas Color Correctors
An important complement in achieving the look of the video was also Temptu's new Perfect Canvas Color Corrector set. This bundle contains seven popular complementary colors that can correct any type of skin irregularity. Once again this is a fantastic product with an amazing correcting power, that works perfectly for the Hydralock/Perfect Canvas Foundation line, which is by nature sheerer in order to allow for a natural finish. The correctors work so fast and so undetectably that it was hard to render in the video we shot. It took only a couple of second to neutralize our model's under eye area perfectly. Once again this product represents a fly in the face of the false myth that you "cannot airbrush around the eyes". You can indeed, and indeed you should, with the right amount of pressure and after a little practice to make sure you are using your tools correctly around the delicate eye area.
More please!
Temptu has already switched their highlighters and blush airpod lines to the new Hydralock formula, which makes them completely compatible with the Airshadow range and opens up a whole lot of possibilities for eyeshadow designs. I really hope that they will soon offer more Airshadow colors, perhaps reissue the former S/B Hi Def and Multicolors selections with the new Hydralock formulation as well, so that we can continue using bold and beautiful colors. I hope this video and review will inspire more people to try airbrushing eyeshadow. Aside form the advantages of speed, durability, hygiene, no transfer and waterproof finish, airbrushing eye looks is jut plain fun!.
Last weekwe introduced the British brand Airbase with a detailed review of their makeup line and a video tutorial of a fully airbrushed makeup look.
Now it's time to take an in depth look at the tools that this company offers in their pro kits. There are several kit combinations on offer on the website, all including a different selection of makeup and tools and proportionally priced. All the pro kits share the same compressor and airbrush. Other optional components can be ordered from the website regardless of the chosen kit composition.
The compressor and Airbrush
Like most of the best brands of airbrush makeup, Airbase decided to source their tools from the high quality yet cost effective catalogue of Taiwanese manufacturer Sparmax. The Airbase kit features the beauty industry workhorse called DC-25, a very reliable, quiet, small and light weight compressor that never disappoints, with its maintenance free motor capable of an output of up to 30 PSI (2.1 BAR). The Airbrush is another beauty industry standard, the SP .35 with its sleek chrome finish and its stylish carrying case. The reason why many company feature this same airbrush is very simple: it's one of very best tools for makeup out there, and it will not disappoint you. Because of its ubiquity, it will also be very easy to find spare parts for this instrument no matter where you are.
Variables and accessories
As I was saying earlier, the Airbase kit has a series of optional components that can be part of your selected bundle, and if they are not they can easily be ordered from the online store on the website. A little but crucial part that should not be missing from your professional kit is the Pressure Adjuster. This is currently included only in the Platinum kit, but in my opinion it should be added to all the other options too. It's a simple valve that must be screwed in between the airbrush and the air hose, and that will allow you to lower the pressure output for more delicate parts of the face, such as around the eyes, making the whole experience more comfortable for the client and the application of the makeup truly flawless. Then there is a bunch of other add-ons that can be selected at your discretion. The rechargeable battery pack will allow you to complete a whole makeup and more in total mobility, which some may consider very important. The cleaning pot is always a very safe, practical and professional way to discharge your airbrush during makeup and cleaning. Speaking of cleaning, the online store also offers a reasonably priced ultrasonic cleaning machine. This is an excellent tool that will restore your airbrush to like new conditions every time you use it. Not many makeup companies offer these online, so it is great that Airbase does. Finally, the shading pad is included in every kit option and it's very useful when creating contouring effects and eyeshadow designs.
Airbase Airbrush Makeup Case
The Airbase Makeup Case
This one complement needs a special mention. I don't even know if this is the most practical way of carrying your airbrush kit, but it certainly is the best looking. The Airbase case is so sleek and awesome that I finally had to give in and buy it. With a sturdy, anti scratch outer paneling and a custom made foam insert with spaces for pretty much every component of your pro kit, the case makes for a luxurious, awesome presentation item and it's just plain gorgeous (see photo for indication of what goes where). It is included in the Platinum Kit bundle, but can also be purchased from the pro section of the online store at a later stage if you started with a different kit option.
Makeup Complements
Our previous review focused on the main silicone based line. Airbase also offers a hybrid silicone/water based line of primary colors that can be used alone or mixed together to create infinite possibilities for fantasy makeup and body painting, or even simply as eye shadow colours. We will feature this line in a future tutorial. Other high quality makeup components offered by the airbase online sotre include the best selling First Base Perfecting primer, a fine HD powder, corrector and concealer palettes, and a selection of ultra pigmented eyeshadows presented in palettes that have been raved about by several beauty gurus on YouTube.
Airbase is a British brand created by Judy Naaké, the beauty guru and entrepreneur who brought the leading self tanning product Saint Tropez to the United Kingdom. Airbase was developed in collaboration with Oscar nominated makeup artist Anni Buchanan, and the brand is now owned and lead by Judy's son Lloyd Naakè.
I have come across Airbase products several times in the last few years during different trade shows, but I never had a chance to get to know the brand properly until this year's edition of Cosmoprof in Italy, when I met Lloyd and his friendly, unpretentious team. I started playing with the line right at the show's booth, and a few months later I was finally able to put together the video tutorial and unfiltered photo session you see here. So let's have a look at the product line.
Airbase's core strategy is quite simple: the line was conceived to allow professional makeup artists to achieve a flawless, durable makeup base with a streamlined selection of colors that can be mixed together to match any skin tone. The makeup is silicone based, and enriched with vitamine A and E to provide additional moisturizing and anti oxidant benefits. There are just seven foundation colors in the range, complemented by two blush colors (Pink and Peach), a bronzer and two highlighters. The first two foundation shades (00 and 01) are meant to be used more as adjusters for the other colors rather than by themselves. Foundation 00 can be used make the other colors lighter, and Foundation 02 to veer the other shades towards a more yellow/olive range. The remaining five shades are therefore neutral, and they can be veered towards cool tones by adding a little Pink blush to the mix. After experimenting with the products for a few weeks I have to say that I found this color system very effective and easy to use once you practice a little mixing. While some makeup artists might prefer to have as many shades as possible in order to avoid having to mix colors, others will find the process stimulating and ultimately liberating, as they will be able to get the tonality just perfect. A seven color range also means a smaller initial investment, with the advantage of having to replace only the shades that one tends to use more often.
Airbase Airbrush Makeup, Unfiltered*
The Airbase colors are of medium viscosity and would flow well in any airbrush kit that features an airbrush with a nozzle of 0.25 mm and up, and a compressor with adjustable pressure ranging between 5 and 25 psi. The formula has a matte but not overly opaque finish, great coverage power and feels very comfortable on the skin. Just like any good silicone based formula the product remains moveable for a while after application and allows for easy corrections. Setting with an fine HD powder may be preferable on more oily or more textured areas of the skin, but it is not essential. Once again thanks to its silicone base the product is water proof, has little or no transfer and good resistance to the touch. Finally, and very importantly to many of us, the formula is fragrance free. The colors come in 30 ml (1 Fl oz) bottles, which allow for many applications. You will need between 15 and 30 drops of product per application depending on how sheer or full you want your coverage to be. There are also 10ml (.30 oz) trial bottles available at times, but the price for these is not that convenient, and as the small bottle's caps are not airtight the products tend to dry fast, so I would go for the standard sizes if at all possible.
Airbase Airbrush Makeup, Unfiltered*
To put the line to the test, in the unfiltered video tutorial enclosed here I have used all the products in the range to achieve a fully airbrushed look, without any creme correctors even for the under eye area. As I like to show the full potential of the colors, the understated eyeshadow that you see in the images was also fully airbrushed. I was really happy about the result of the product on the eyes. The formula does not crease on the eyelids and lasts unaltered until it is taken off, even without the precaution of spraying MUFE Mist& Fix as shown in the video. I loved that the shimmer can (and should!) be mixed with any shade to create beautiful opalescent lids, and I hope the company will eventually release a specific range for eyes, since the products works so well.
For those who don't feel as confident airbrushing everything, Airbase has created a series of makeup complements that will integrate well with the liquid products, from a creme concealer wheel, to an eyeshadow pallet. HD powder and mascara are also part of this line.
Please stay tuned for a full review of the tools and more products included in the Airbase airbrush kit.
*Definition of Unfiltered Photo: no "filter" has been applied to the photos above to alter the texture of the skin or of the makeup. Only the background has been edited. A photo filter has been applied to the video's thumbnail, but no filters were applied to the footage.
Airbase foundation airbrushed swatces
Airbase Highlighter, Blush and Bronzer airbrushed swatches
