Makeup and the Pandemic: Implications of the Corona Virus Emergency for the Beauty Industry

How is the beauty industry going to be impacted by the Covid-19 virus? As the world is still struggling to gauge the scale of the pandemic and its implications for the economy, it might seem too early to ponder this question. Yet there is one thing that already appears obvious and tragic: the way we interact with each other is not going to be the same for a very long time.

In a recent post on Facebook, the creator of a once very popular beauty brand posed an interesting question: how many people will want you to touch their face after this? He then proceeded to make an interesting parallel with the aftermath of 9/11 and what that meant for the professional lives of makeup artists in the US, speculating that this current crisis may well have far more lasting implications on a global scale. Will our perception of the importance of self image forever be affected by the long quarantine that we are experiencing? Will working from home and apart become the new norm, and will the importance of appearing in person be dramatically reduced for the foreseeable future?

While it is really too early to tell, the questions are certainly valid and will soon be urgent for a whole sector of our economy both at corporate and individual business level.

My own intuition is perhaps obvious, given who I am and what I struggle to represent: I strongly believe that now more than ever, airbrush makeup represents a unique opportunity in the face of the challenges ahead. The fact that airbrushing offers the cleanest application available represents a stunning opportunity in the face of future hardship, if you think that an accomplished airbrush makeup artist can execute a whole makeup almost without touching the face -and yes, that can include eyes down to the eyeliner and eyebrows.

For those who stumbled upon these page and are wondering what I am talking about, in airbrush application the makeup goes from the bottle to the airbrush reservoir, and is then sprayed on the skin without any need for brushes, sponges and most importantly fingers. With proper care there is no cross contamination whatsoever and every client receives the benefit of pristine tools and products. Add that to single-use lip and mascara applicators, and you have created the cleanest possible makeup application. You can check any of my videos to see how very little, if at all, I need to touch my model's skin.

Of course I still believe mainstream beauty conglomerates will never give this technique a real chance, due to its learning curve, however small,  and its reduced profit margins: in airbrushing, a single airbrush does the job of a whole brush set, and in most cases one product does the job of three or four traditional ones, for example foundation barely needing primer, powder and setting spray.

However those courageous brands and forward -thinking makeup artists that have decided to produce and invest in this medium, are now faced with a unique opportunity to satisfy a potentially radical change in people's perception: the need for the maximum hygiene standards met by maximum makeup performance.

It is to salute these very brands that I am publishing this year's update to our LINKS page (no monetization or sponsorship involved) , where you will find a list of every airbrush makeup related brand and business in the world.

As for the makeup artists, this whole website is a free resource that I have created to help you in your first approach to airbrushing, or to take your skills to the highest level if you already have some knowledge of this amazing medium.

Please help me keep our LINKS page current by reading it and suggesting updates and edits.

Daniel Pacini

Editor,

Airbrush Makeup Guru.Com

April 2020

What is the best Airbrush Makeup brand in 2018? -My favorite products

Google "What is the best airbrush makeup?" and you will get at least three pages of computer-generated blogs, all made up of cut-and-paste reviews with only one goal: to refer you to the relevant Amazon.com page and cash in on your final choice. There are even a few computer generated YouTube videos with those hideous electronic voices if you feel like a laugh. If I don't really blame these hackers for trying to make a buck while at least providing some information, I do prefer a more human approach -meaning an actual person giving you an actual opinion. The fact is, the question itself is a little silly, and it is indicative of a niche market mentality that sees airbrushing as a sort of single brand affiliation business. So, whether you'll ever see this article or not, I am going to tell you the only reasonable answer to that ever recurring question: the best airbrush makeup is the one that works best for you.

As I share the latest update of our non monetized LINKS directory, I think it's high time we established one cold hard fact: the best airbrush makeup products may not be all from one brand.  Hardly anyone uses one brand of traditional makeup exclusively and most of us definitely enjoy picking what we consider the best and mixing it up. It is time to start applying this same criteria to our airbrush makeup experience, and to open up to the possibility that while claiming to be "the best" might be a necessary marketing strategy for a brand, we are not joining a cult when we buy a kit or take a class with any of them. We are simply learning a whole new way of doing what we love: makeup.

The good news is that quality standards in the airbrush makeup world are significantly high, and that if we factor in the necessary learning curve that each different product might require, it's going to be hard to be truly disappointed by any of them.

For me personally, after seven year of being passionately and exclusively devoted to working with this medium in all its aspects, I can say that it's almost never a case of not liking something, but rather of liking something more than something else. So, while it would be foolish of me to tell you that there is a brand of makeup that is "the absolute best", I can definitely reveal some of the things that I prefer in a medium where excellence is more often than not the common denominator. Oh, and please feel free to click or not any of these links: they will take you straight to the official product pages. Like I said before, no monetizing whatsoever is happening on this website. 

For glamour makeup: Temptu SilkSphere Foundation

Ever since it was reformulated in 2015, this silicone based product has never ceased to amaze me. The finish it provides is simply incredible, so much that I like to call it "model skin". I have tried an indefinite number of products that promised to "reduce the appearance of fine lines". This is the only one in my experience that actually does. Its intrinsic glow is so powerful that it provides a smoothing, uplifting effect even on the most textured and uneven skin. While it is being overlooked in Temptu's marketing right now in favor of their newer Perfect Canvas formula, you really need to give this one a try.

Temptu SilkSphere

Most common objection: Too shiny, too tacky.

Pro reply to objection: The glow will naturally diminish as the formula dries, and settle on a level depending on the skin type. The formula can easily be matted down with HD powder or setting powder, which will also reduce the slight adhesiveness that some might feel, also depending on their skin type.

For invisible/natural makeup: Dinair Glamour Foundation

This is the very first line that Dinair made available when it started the airbrush makeup revolution over thirty years ago. The formula has since been updated and improved, retaining its main advantages: great coverage with no texture whatsoever. If applied correctly, this foundation immediately disappears in the skin covering the bad and letting all the good shine through, providing such an imperceptible finish that even men can wear it without fear of it being detected.

Most common objection: Too dry, too matte.

Pro reply to objection: Moisturize the skin well with a light, non oily cream. If the finish appears too matte and you have dry skin, airbrush two drops of jojoba oil or of Moist & Dewy (Dinair's own post application moisturizer). If you have oily skin, natural oils will even out the finish within a little while.

For Water Proof Foundation: Nebula by Kryolan

This recent addition to the Kryolan line is the most water resistant foundation I have ever tried. Nebula is silicone based, but has the thin consistency and fast drying time of a water based formula. Its finish reflects the classic style you have come to expect from Kryolan, which some will prefer and some won't. However it is bomb (or at least water-bomb) proof, with no budging or smudging even after great quantities of water.

Most common objection: Too thin, sprays too fast.

Pro reply to objection: apply only with a selectable pressure machine. Amazingly, Kryolan does not provide a pressure regulator with their kits, making its own product very hard to use, especially in smaller areas such as eyes and cheeks. A pressure regulator valve can be easily attached to its kit, as we show at the end of this video. 

For Correctors: Temptu Perfect Canvas Color Correctors [Game Changer]

Please forgive my enthusiasm but this product is just insane, with its stunning ability to instantly neutralize any imperfection without creating build up and without showing through the foundation, which you can layer seamlessly on top. There are eight classic color correcting shades in total, available in .25 fl.oz (7.5ml) or 1 fl oz. (29 ml) bottles, and in Airpod format. Like I was saying, and as I show in my video tutorial, you will not see the color you are applying, you will simply see the pigmentation disappear, and the light consistency of the fast drying formula will not create build up on fine lines, nor settle in them as time goes by.

  
Most common objection: You should not airbrush around the eyes.

Pro reply to objection: If you don't know how, you certainly shouldn't. If you educate yourself you will see how not only it is doable, but also preferable.

For Contour and Blush: Kett Hydro Contour and Blush Shades

With four options covering any skin shade, Kett's water based contour set is one of the most effective, natural looking shadowing product, with a buildable intensity that can go from barely perceptible to the most structured editorial designs. The blush pack in Kett's Hydro line is also a true classic, and the soft, skin like texture of the praised formula makes them particularly comfortable to wear and natural looking.

Most common objection: The Kett colors are not durable and transfer easily

Pro reply to objection: Keep your application light and if need be sett with HD powder, you will have no problem.

For Highlighters: Temptu Perfect Canvas Airpod Highlighters

With their subtle, now you see it / now you don't, gorgeous glow, Temptu's highlighters are in my personal opinion simply the best available, and they beat any other product whether traditional or airbrushable. The hues are delicate and beautiful, and the effect on video and photography is stunning.

Most common objection: None. Everyone I showed them too or tried them on agrees with me.

Pro Solution: Buy them.

For Eye Shadows: Dinair Colair Matte and Opalescent Colors [Game Changer]

These incredible, water based colors are as durable and easy to apply as they are beautiful to look at. They work wonderfully even on the most textured eyelids, which will require little or no preparation. They are totally crease proof, rub proof and water proof despite being water based. The pigmentation is extraordinary, and they can be mixed to obtain new colors easily. This product is a vastly underrated game changer. Let's just say this: if popular influencers knew about this, and learned to apply them, eye makeup and palette peddling would never be the same.

Most common objection: Airbrushing eyeshadow is difficult/should not be done.

Pro reply to objection: Once you know how to blend, doing a multi toned, graphic eyeshadow will take one fifth of the time you would need with traditional, the effect will be more durable, and the product will not stain your eyelids.

For Illuminators: Airbase Illuminators

Airbase Illuminators

An illuminator is like a highlighter and can be used as such, bur it can be layered to have a little more presence and can be used as an eyeshadow as well. This year British brand Airbase launched a set of four beautiful new shades, and one in particular, Exotic Bronze, is among the most beautiful and versatile colors I have ever used.

For Tattoo Cover: Colair Tattoo Cover (Formerly Colair Extreme) [Game Changer]

This is another incredible product to come out of Dinair in the last few years, and one of the most underrated. It is a water based formula offering incredible coverage and total water and rub resistance. This product is so pigmented that you do not need to color correct underneath when covering a tattoo, thus saving an incredible amount of time. It is also healthy enough that it can be used to cover severe hyper-pigmentation anywhere on the body before applying your preferred foundation. It can also be mixed with any other Dinair foundation line to improve their coverage and resistance. In special effects it can be used on prosthetics for a super fast coverage that will not degrade foam latex. I call this product a more cosmetic, healthier version of PAX, and to this day I do not understand why such few YouTube videos exist about it, and why isn't everyone both in the beauty and SFX world screaming in joy about it. 

Most common objection: Finding the right shade is hard.

Pro reply to objection: I concur, but you will get better and better the more you use the range. If you are buying this for yourself be sure to get a lighter and darker shade as well as your own,  so that you can adjust if necessary.

European Body Art

For Body Painting: Vibe and Endura by European Body Art

Recently reformulated, Vibe is an ultra pigmented, water based product that is -don't ask me how- very water resistant. If you need something that is atomic bomb proof you can also try Endura, EBA's alcohol based line that has some stunning metallic colors. I would advise you not to use Endura colors on the face though unless absolutely necessary, as removal can be problematic and take a very long time.

For Body Art: Graftobian FX Aire, Neon Shades

These super vibrant colors by Graftobian are insanely pigmented and will glow under Black Light. The formula is alcohol based but can be used quite safely on the eye area as well (just make sure the eyes are closed when applying). It is very durable yet easy to remove, and the generous 2 fl. oz. size will last you a long time. The consistency of the product is very fine, so low air pressure should be used.

What are your own favorite airbrush products? Please let me know in the comments, and please share this post with whomever may enjoy it.

Keep spraying the world beautiful,

Daniel Pacini,

Editor

The State of Airbrush Makeup 2016: truth beyond fiction, and the rant of all rants!

Visit our LINKS page to view the most complete Airbrush Makeup Directory on line!

In early 2011 I was shopping online for my very first airbrush makeup kit. Five years, over 15 more kits and countless applications later that initial curiosity has turned into a passion -some would say obsession- for this amazing technique. Today, as we publish the most complete and up to date directory of airbrush makeup brands worldwide, the time has come to reflect on where airbrushing stands in the makeup industry, and on where it's going.

The Gold Standard

Since the advent of HD technology, the expression "airbrushed finish" has become a leit-motif in the beauty industry.  Some courageous and passionate artists and entrepreneurs have devised a way to achieve that goal with an actual airbrush, and have built brands and a whole culture around this. They have become unsung heroes in an often ungrateful industry that never fully acknowledged them at a mainstream level, yet has burnt all the stops to do exactly what they do while maintaining their marketing margins. Almost all the leading mainstream makeup brands today are offering products conceived to achieve said "airbrushed finish". Some of them mimic the texture of those produced by actual airbrush makeup brands,  yet are made with roughly three times the amount of chemical ingredients. These foundations are so similar to our airbrush formulas that you can actually apply them with an airbrush, but are marketed to the public as "easy to use" liquid foundations.  I am talking about major brands ranging from Dior, with its Nude Air foundation line, to Lancome with its Miracle Air de Teint, all the way down to Maybelline and Boots with its N.7 line. Some of these brands have even got so far as bottling their foundation in a spray can, yet none of them would even dream of marketing an actual made-for-airbrush line, with the notable exception of Mac Pro. The question is, can airbrushing have a life outside of the echelon of the professional world, or will it forever be considered a difficult niche dominated only by the most skilled or the most fanatical?

Enter the Airbrush Makeup Brands.

With the mainstream market locked in this ambivalence, the art of airbrush makeup has been able to advance thanks to smaller companies who have made it their focus. Some of these, like Kett, Graftobian and MUD, only cater to professionals. Others like the legendary originators Dinair and  their silicone based counterpart Temptu have kept their professional lines but have also opened up to the mainstream public, and have worked tirelessly to promote the idea that anyone can airbrush makeup with great results. While Temptu offers a simplified tool created for the consumer (the AirPod), Dinair has made its own airbrush kits as consumer friendly and easy to use and maintain as possible, and invests enormous amounts of energy in its training, with courses that aim to teach anybody to tackle any aspect of makeup application with an actual airbrush.

Next to these and other historical brands, a plethora of smaller companies has emerged that try and ride the "airbrush wave". Some have a genuine commitment to quality and represent interesting alternatives to more renown names. Others are in it only for a marketing opportunity, and often disappear as quickly as they surface. We are actually sad to see them go, because even the most basic of them may offer someone an introduction into the world of airbrushing, and if I do say so myself, even the "worst" airbrush brand I have tried has allowed me to get above average results over their traditional counterparts. 

The Real Enemy

The professional makeup world has long been aware of airbrushing. In the United States the technique has officially become a part of the curricula of beauty schools. In spite of this there seems to be no uniformity in the actual teaching of the subject, which is left in many cases in the hands of teachers who have a limited view and knowledge of the subject themselves, and who fall prey to many misconceptions. False myths and lack of proper education, coupled with arrogance, are the worst enemies of airbrush makeup. Certain makeup artists will take a short class with a minor brand and immediately start pontificating on YouTube on how "you should do this", and you can NEVER, under ANY circumstance "do that" with an airbrush. I personally know of a teacher charging $ 600  for a 5 hour class on airbrushing foundation only, because "it is absolutely impossible to do anything else". Another teacher in an accredited school was teaching their class that they should disassemble their airbrush and clean completely it after each single change of color. It is a wonder that any of the unfortunate students pursued the discipline outside of that school...

Europe and the World at large

If the public at large in the USA is becoming aware of airbrushing as a valid alternative, Europe represents practically virgin territory in this respect.  With Customs restrictions on makeup of any kind making even import for personal use very difficult, makeup enthusiasts who live in the EU have to rely mostly on local distributors of American brands. However some new European brands have started to produce more comprehensive and very valid lines, such as Mistair and AirBase in the UK, and Cazcarra in Spain. The first brands have also started emerging in Africa, Oceania and Asia, where the culture of perfect complexion borders on the extreme Even China has a very interesting offering with the wide range of products conceived by Taiwanese makeup artist Nien Tsz Lee. 

The Truth about airbrush makeup

The truth about airbrushing makeup is one and simple, and this whole website, the videos we produce and  all we do lives to attest it: airbrushing can do EVERYTHING.  My own experience shows that "if it isn't working for you, you are simply not doing it right". The larger question of course is why should you bother? The answer is up to your enthusiasm and your preference. Whether you are a makeup artist or a home user, airbrushing doesn't have to replace your brushes -although it could. It can simply be an alternative or an enhancement of what you already know. But be sure to give it a fair chance, and you may never want to do without it again. So many of those who have, like myself, believe that airbrushing allows them to achieve a faster, cleaner, healthier and ultimately more precise makeup application.

The Future

Innovation remains the key objective and the most marketable aspect of any beauty related enterprise. In the airbrush makeup field the leading brands have been expanding their lines significantly to cover any skin type and any corrective need. Airbrush equipment has never looked so attractive, with a strong emphasis on portability that has seen both Temptu and Dinair come up with rechargeable, ultra compact systems for consumer use. Yet airbrushing is unlikely to achieve mainstream dominance anytime soon. The reason is simple: profit. With its reliance on a single tool, and with the extremely high color payoff and coverage power of even the basic formulations, there is simply a lot less to exploit in terms of marketing and sales. Why should big companies promote an airbrush when they can sell a set of twenty five brushes with a 400% markup? Too much is invested in traditional makeup for it to change quickly, and for the time being airbrushing remains a well guarded "industry secret". The best example that comes to mind is that of a mega popular TV period drama, where the makeup is admittedly airbrushed using one of those previously mentioned historic brands, but where the head of the makeup department was sponsored by a totally unrelated traditional makeup brand to show how to achieve that same look "the traditional way". Whether public awareness will ever wake up or not to the effectiveness of the airbrush application, to those who have experienced its advantages airbrush makeup has become irreplaceable.

So much so that I will finish this little rent by paraphrasing none other than the Bard himself:

"If makeup be the food of love... spray on!"


Daniel Pacini,
Editor,
www.airbrushmakeupguru.com 

This article is dedicated to all the hard working dreamers that push this wonderful medium forward, against all odds. Thank you for spraying the world beautiful. 

Disclaimer: no compensation or sponsorship of any kind was received by the author for writing the above. This article, like any other on this website, reflects the author's genuine experience and opinion.