Is airbrush makeup ready for Ultra HD? Marc Harvey Beauty review and video tutorial.

Full Face Airbrush Makeup with MHB Cosmetics

Marc Harvey is a very well known face in the airbrush makeup world, having been the brand ambassador for the popular brand Luminess, heavily advertised on US television network. After that experience he created another brand called Elementwo that is popular on the Asian markets, and finally he moved on to create his own brand, Marc Harvey Beauty, which debuted just a few years ago and which offers a range of products for airbrushing, a series of skin care products and some traditional makeup complements for eyes and lips. 

This new airbrush line offers a foundation range with 20 colors catering to every skin tone and every ethnicity, plus 4 shimmer colors, six blush tones and two bronzers. 

The airbrush products are available individually on the website in .5 oz (14 ml) bottles, or as trial bundles of .25 oz (7 ml) bottles that are also offered in a Starter Airbrush kit combination with a compressor and airbrush package. This review will concentrate on the makeup, as I have not received the tools, however I can confidently say that given its light texture and high fluidity, the makeup can be successfully applied with any and all beauty airbrush systems out there, regardless of the brand. 

In line with Marc's passion for skin care, this water/alcohol hybrid airbrush formula is rich in botanical ingredients that include cucumber, green tea, rosehip oil extracts, neroli, jojoba and orange peel oils and witch hazel. These are preserved in a water base with a 14% presence of organic alcohol, which serves both as preservative for the other elements, as an astringent, and to ensure the makeup's durability once applied. 

The airbrush makeup line is called Exclusive Air Ultra HD. The name is interesting enough, because it implies that the product is natural looking and imperceptible enough to hold up to the Ultra HD camera. From a professional stand point, this means that the makeup should offer efficient coverage without creating any texture, which is the claim of most airbrush brands out there. So, does the product live up to its own name? In short, yes it does, and the results are excellent.  You can view how I applied to obtain the look in these photos and read my pro tips in the video tutorial included here, then read on for my own thoughts and opinions on this formula.

The formula is the thinnest, least viscous product I ever put through my airbrush. After only a pass it's hard to see any difference at all in the skin, but right here lies its beauty: you can build the application very slowly and subtly, zooming in on more problematic areas first and then using wider, more far away passes, and you hardly ever run the risk of creating unsightly concentration of product (hot spots). All you have to do is take a few seconds and a virtual step back from the process between passes in order to assess how your skin is changing. Once you have reached the desired coverage, you will be amazed by the total lack of texture on the skin. You will see the skin concealed and improved, without feeling or seeing the presence of virtually any product at all, and there will be zero highlighting of problematic areas, even of the fine skin around the eyes. While the airbrush product can be integrated with traditional concealer either under or over the airbrushed application, it is my experience that with careful layering you will not need any concealer at all, and as an added bonus you will not have to fear slippage in finer lines throughout the day. 

The finish of the product is a delicate matte outlook, which can easily support the use of hydrating finishing sprays on top. The durability is comparable to that of the best, more established airbrush formulas out there. The formula has no added perfume, and a faint scent derived from the natural ingredients will vanish right away after application. 

As far as the other complements I was able to try, the bronzer performed just as well as the foundation, and the shimmer colors were absolutely gorgeous, as you can see in the video. I look forward to shooting more content with this line, and I would like to invite you to check back on these pages soon for a very interesting interview with Marc as we induct him in our very own Airbrush Makeup Hall of Fame. 

What kind of airbrush makeup? An unbiased guide to Dinair products.

100% Dinair Airbrushed Eyeshadow

Dinair was the first brand in the world to make airbrush makeup commercially available to both professional makeup artists and consumers alike. Founded by Dina Ousley and partner George Lampman in 1981, this family run company is stronger than ever and remains the most dynamic brand in the airbrush makeup field today. With so many products and innovations coming through at a fast pace, we thought we would lay out an easy guide to the brand for those who approach it for the first time.  
TIPS: Can't find a specific product in a section of Dinair's website? Try using their search button in the top right corner of each page! In this article will only be describing makeup products. If you are looking for equipment information please read our Kit Review.

Product Composition and Available Sizes

All of Dinair products are water based. Some lines (Paramedical, Fantasy, Hair Colair) have a small percentage of high grade cosmetic alcohol to render them extra resistant to water and rubbing. This makes the products very healthy and extremely safe for any skin type, with no known allergic reaction in the 35 year history of the product existence.

All the colors come in four sizes: tester (.12 oz), small (.25 oz), medium (.50 oz) and large (1.15 oz).  Of course as the size increases the price becomes more convenient, however even the very small tester size can yield many uses, and certainly enough to figure out if you like the color or product before committing to a larger investment: a .12 oz small bottles contains 50 drops approximately, enough for 7 foundation or 14 eyeshadow applications on a conservative estimate. The testers are also super handy to carry with you when you travel.

For quick reference and a guide to each color's undertones please download the free pdf of the latest Dinair Color Chart.

The Foundation Lines

Dinair has four foundation lines available in 20 equivalent shades:

-Dinair Glamour is the first line in the brand's history and it is still a strong customer favorite. It has the most natural and imperceptible finish while retaining great coverage, very good water and rub resistance. It is perfect for those wishing to achieve a totally natural, undetectable makeup, and it also ideal for men grooming. TIP: The matte finish can be easily be balanced if necessary by airbrushing a natural glow such as Dinair's Moist & Dewy or refined Jojoba Oil on top of the makeup.

-Colair Radiance has a satin/matte finish and a softer, more comfortable finish that make the final result very similar to what you would get using a silicone based products. It is less undetectable than Glamour but still very natural, and with twice the pigment content it offers superior coverage and greater resistance to rub and water. It has a very subtle intrinsic luminosity that makes it ideal for everybody and very suitable for more mature skin.

-Colair Soft Glow as the name suggests has a very subtle glow factor intended to blur imperfections optically. It is closer in texture to Glamour with a powdery matte finish that makes it ideal for normal oily skin, and a favorite for bridal makeup.

-Dinair Paramedical (Camouflage) is a water and high grade cosmetic alcohol based formula that allows for greater coverage and it rub resistant and water proof. It is especially indicated for correcting problematic skin conditions while still allowing the pores to breathe (i.e it's non-comedogenic). It can be used as a correcting and priming base on which to layer the other lines of foundation.

Tattoo /Serious Skin Imperfections Cover

-Colair Extreme is a very powerful product that can be used to cover tattoos and very evident skin conditions such as birth marks, vitiligo, strong rosacea and such. It has total blocking power and does not require color correcting, and it's totally water proof and rub resistant, with a long lasting finish under almost any circumstance. TIPS: Because of its extreme pigment content the finish tends to look very uniform, however this be softened by using Extreme under or even mixed with any other Dinair foundation line. Colair Extreme has also enormous potential in the special effects field, where it represents a valid cosmetic alternative to Pax paint, allowing artists to paint base tones on prosthetics extremely fast and with excellent results.

Eyeshadows, Eyeliner, Blush and Lip colors

With airbrush makeup any color can be used for any desired purpose. The difference is not in the formulation, but in the concentration and in the style of application. For example a shade of pink can easily be used as eyeshadow, blush, or even as a lip stain. Dinair's website usefully points out what colors maybe ideal for what use, and you should visit each section to make sure you see all the available shades. Having said that all colors are divided in three main groups according to their finish:

-Dinair Glamour: this is a group of  matte colors that are very easy to blend yet very pigmented. TIP: To ensure a durable, crease free application it is best to moisturize the eye lid and then to remove any excess oils with a mattifying lotion or even with Dinair Airbrush Cleaner (this may sound funny but given its organic, non toxic formula the cleaner lends itself beautifully for this purpose). 

-Dinair Shimmer: a further 24 beautiful shimmering shades. TIP: lid prep applies as described above. Some of the lighter shades have lots of pigment and shimmering particles, so remember to shake well before applying and you may need to rinse the airbrush with some water and /or cleaner after using them before proceeding to the next colors.

-Colair Opalescent: an ever growing group of 27 opalescent shades which are amazingly pigmented, water proof and rub resistant, yet water based. TIP: in spite of their high pigmentation, these colors can be layered to obtain the most subtle gradients, with truly amazing results. 

-Colair Matte: this is the latest addition to the Dinair range and the first six colors have just been released. They promise to be as pigmented and resistant as their opalescent counterparts, but with a matte finish.

-Colair Eyebrows: while makeup for eyebrows has always been achievable with the shades in the Glamour range, this new addition has six specific shades with the improved pigmentation, durability and resistance you have come to expect from the Colair range.

Effects and Fantasy Makeup

-Dinair Fantasy is a line of 13 beautiful vivid colors in a water and cosmetic grade alcohol base for improved resistance. TIP: These shades are amazing and can be used safely as eyeshadows as well. They can be mixed with any other Dinair color.

-Colair Electric: seven ultra bright shades that are water based with superior water and rub resistance. They can be used for fantasy makeup or as eyeshadows by themselves or mixed with any other Dinair Color.

Airbrushing Hair

-Hair Colair Highlights: this is a range of colors that can be used to cover roots or to create beautiful highlights on any original hair color: their particular pigmentation means that they are visible even on very dark hair, allowing for a world of possibilities. The application will last until the hair is washed.

-Hair Colair Shadows: these seven shades have a more natural matte finish that allows for the most natural root cover. They can also be used to fill in sparse scalp areas (alopecia) or to fill in beard spots in the most natural way. 

-Vivid Hair Colors: eight amazing shades of semi permanent hair colors for stunning effects lasting up until 15 shampoos. TIP:Please read the instructions on the page carefully before using this product.

Essential Complements

-Dinair Airbrush Cleaner has been reformulated a couple of years ago and it has dramatically improved to become absolutely essential. It is organic, non toxic and removes all of Dinair makeup from the airbrush like a breeze, even the very persistent Colair Extreme. Used with the genius Cleaning Caps system it allows you to keep you airbrush pristine and looking like new after every use. It can also be used as a mattifying agent on the skin to remove excess oil. While formulated for Dinair, it removes other brands of water based makeup from any system just as easily. 

-Dinair Deep Clean Clog Remover is the ultimate airbrush problem solver. When normal cleaning fails to restore the airbrush to perfect functionality, this genius liquid will take care of the situation with very little effort. TIP: Please do read the instructions on the bottle carefully. As most clogs happen in the nozzle of the airbrush, you can simply fill a small cap of Deep Clean and soak the nozzle of your airbrush (whatever the model or brand) for fifteen minutes. Then clean the nozzle with a synthetic brush, soak again for a fifteen minutes, reassemble and rinse: problem gone!

-Dinair Makeup Sealer is a lesser known, less advertised product that in our opinion should not be missing from any kit. This airbrushable sealer will greatly improve the water resistance of the applied makeup, making more resilient to heavy water exposure. It is indispensable for special occasions.

Non Airbrushable Complements

-Dinair Under Eye Concealers have the same composition and are available in the same shades of the airbrush foundations but are in cream form. They are very useful when correcting a problematic under eye area or when a person is particularly sensitive to air being blown close to the open eyes. They create the perfect base for a light airbrush pass, and like any concealer they must be used very sparingly and set with a very light dusting of powder to avoid accumulation in fine lines.

-Dinair Pucker Up! is a series of matte and recently added metallic lip stains. Even though they are not an airbrushable product they are worth mentioning for their incredible durability and their amazing payoff. The color "Vixen" may well be that ultimate true red we had been looking for through every brand, and it is our favorite lip color ever.

 

 





            

Hollywood Air airbrush makeup: In depth review and Day-To-Night video tutorial

Hollywood Air "Night Look"

Hollywood Air is an airbrush makeup brand created initially for the Japanese market with the supervision of makeup artist Dominie Till (King Kong, The Lord of the Rings trilogy). After its debut in Asia a branch was established in the UK, making the product readily available for the European market as well. Hollywood Air offers a selection of water based foundations and a series matte primary colors complemented by two shimmer shades and two blush colors, plus a line of makeup complements and skin care products also created for airbrushing. The products are available individually or in kits that also feature proprietary compressors and airbrushes. The kit we purchased was a pro selection created for trade fairs and featuring almost all of the foundation shades in 50 ml sizes, all of the other colors and a silicone based makeup sealer called HA Aqua Proof Top Coat. Let's discuss each item in the kit, and please don't forget to scroll to the bottom of this page to view our video tutorial detailing how the makeup in these photos was achieved. 

Hollywood Air "day look"

Packaging

The first thing that impressed us was the packaging of the kit. In accordance to our perceived Japanese sense of style, everything in the box was presented very elegantly and organized very neatly. We appreciated the presence of a few extra items such as a pipette/dropper,  empty mixing bottles and an all purpose stencil in very soft plastic. The main components are housed in an attractive case that makes the set appealing also for personal use.

Equipment

Let me say this right away: this brand features some of the best  proprietary airbrushes we have seen. While in the photos they may look like the standard third party airbrushes used by many consumer oriented companies, you realize as soon as you pick them up that they are of a far superior quality. Then you start using them and makeup just flows -and cleans- like a dream. I have no way of knowing who the original manufacturer is but they are definitely at a par with our beloved Sparmax airbrushes, which as you know are used by all the top brands worldwide. The airbrush features a trigger regulator on its tail end (a little knob that can be adjusted to limit the trigger movement and control the output), and a quick release connector that attaches it to the adjustable pressure valve connected to the compressor. A simpler version of the airbrush with a standard tail end is also available but its main body is of the same high quality. 

Airbrush Makeup Kit Hollywood Air

The compressor included in the kit is called "Personal 1000". Our version is the "Crystal Edition", and features hand applied crystals for decorative purposes. It only has one pressure setting but this does not matter as the pressure can be adjusted through the airbrush valve. It performs well and is not too loud. A version with three pre-set selectable pressure outputs called Perfect Beauty is also available, and there is also an ultra portable smaller one, the HA Mini,  again with one pressure setting.

Makeup

The quality of the foundation is very impressive, and once again comparable to the best brands available. The water based formula is smooth and does not feel too dry or powdery. It has an excellent staying power and good water resistance, and can be layered to achieve the desired coverage without looking obvious on the skin. The only down side of it is the number of shades available, which may limit its usage to Caucasian and Asian skin tones. While it is true that the darkest shade can be darkened further by adding a few drops from the primary colors set, this is not a terribly efficient solution both for color consistency and for sheer practicality. The seven shades available are divided in yellow based tones (Vanilla, Moon, Natural and Caramel) and neutral/pink based tones (Fair, Buff, and Earth). The shades can be mixed to match any light to medium skin tone.

The primary/secondary color set is a series of  1.4 oz / 7.5 ml pigments that will allow you to create pretty much any other color both for eyes, cheeks and fantasy application. Adding a series of basic colors instead of creating a whole line of eyeshadows and blushes is a policy followed by other professional companies such as MAC and Kett. Some may find the idea of creating your own shades daunting. I think that it can be a wonderful introduction to color theory for a budding makeup artist, and a great source of fun for a personal user with a creative mind. I had a great time putting together the swatches in the photo, that are all obtained by mixing two or more of the shades in the kit. Please click on the photo to view the colors and quantities used.

Makeup Complements

There is a very interesting series of skin care products that we hope to review in the future. The one complement that we did get is the Aqua Proof Top Coat. This is a silicone solution of very light consistency that can be sprayed over the makeup to render it waterproof. We have tested it and can confirm that it works very well indeed, and could work on any type or brand of makeup too. We advise to hold your breath while spraying it because it creates a very fine mist that will go everywhere. When done with the application you may want to dust a little HD powder to take care of any residual tackiness.

Hollywood Air sells directly from its website but can also be found at many beauty trade shows and through secondary ebay distributors. The kit combinations available for purchase tend to vary significantly, so it is always worth checking all the possibilities repeatedly in time to ensure the most convenient deal.

Airbrush Makeup Guru Profiles: an interview with Sheila McKenna

We are very excited to bring you the first in a series of interviews with the world's leading and most inspiring airbrush makeup artists. We couldn't have hoped for a better opener than this chat with Kett Cosmetics founder and creator Sheila McKenna, who personifies the best combination of amazing talent and great entrepreneurial skills.  

(Please click on any photo to enlarge it. Sheila was kind enough to provide captions that list all the airbrush products that were used in the making of these amazing looks. You can visit the Kett website or refer to the resellers on our directory to purchase these fantastic products.)

Sheila McKenna

Passion, creativity, energy and commitment are the first words that light up like big neon signs in a writer's mind when meeting Sheila McKenna. If the writer happens to be a beauty enthusiast with a love for airbrush makeup bordering on the obsession, the term uber guru will follow up shortly. We are in New York City visiting The Makeup Show, one of the top beauty industry events in the world. Sheila McKenna is right here with Kett Cosmetics, the brand that she has created and directed to become one of the most highly regarded and recognizable names in HD makeup worldwide. Kett offers an unparalleled synergy between crème products, airbrushing, and ultra fine fixing powders that work together to meet today's strict high definition standards. The extensive Kett booth is running like clockwork in the background, with a team of skilled makeup artists demonstrating both beauty and fantasy makeup for a crowd of spell bound onlookers. In the midst of everything that is happening Sheila is radiant with enthusiasm and kindly available to answer my questions.

Above is an image of Lorianna Izrailova. Her skin is airbrushed with Hydro Foundation. The reflection on her lips and collar bone is airbrushed with the Shimmer called Zircon. She is contoured with the color Shadow. Her blush was airbrushed with Sunkissed.

-I know you have a background in art and design. What made you decide to become a makeup artist?

As a young girl, I remember watching my mother do her makeup and thought she was the most beautiful woman in the world. Wanting to paint my own face was a natural step. Choosing makeup as a career was inspired by my father’s advice to do what makes you happy. It will never feel like work whether you are making money or not. The choice was easy.

-Who or what inspired your interest in airbrush makeup?

After 18 years of actively doing makeup, I hit a creative wall and began my quest for artistic growth. At the time, I found a group of motorcycle and car painting enthusiasts that were teaching airbrush classes and registered immediately.  I didn’t expect the passion to ignite as quickly as it did.

This image is one of my favorites because we had Audio Slave blasting in the studio while shooting. Joan Jett was the inspiration and the names of the colors are all Rock n Roll inspired. Kristin Cruz is airbrushed with Hydro Foundation. Here eyes were airbrushed with Iron Maiden, Purple Haze, Mercury and Star Dust. The rest is Rock N Roll history. We also have a video of this look on our website and youtube.

 -Building your own company into a success must have required amazing courage and great instincts. What is the secret behind such a remarkable achievement in such a competitive industry?

I wouldn’t use the word courage to describe what fuelled the fire. It was more like a passion to do what made me happy along with the support of my family. The secret behind Kett’s continued growth is to create high quality products that stand on their own along with a team of passionate employees.

-Where does the name Kett come from?

It’s not a very exciting story but is dear to me so if I told you, I’d have to kill you.

 The model is airbrushed with Kett FX colors in Bone and Varicose. The side of the veins were highlighted to create a concave effect with Hydro Proof White. She is contoured with Kett FX Darkest Brown and a layer of Liquid Metal in Star Dust is all over. The bite marks were hand painted with Kett FX Artery and Trauma

-How would you sum up the best advantages of airbrush makeup for a makeup artist that may be new to the technique?
The greatest advantage to airbrushing a face or body is the ability to alter the skin in any direction with ease and seamless perfection. When layering makeup with an airbrush, you have the ability to color correct and neutralize without creating unwanted secondary colors. It’s also like placing a filter on a camera creating a soft focus on the skin. Technique is key. The application is only as good as the artist with the airbrush. I strongly emphasize the need to get proper training. At Kett, we teach visual and illustration art techniques so every artist attending a workshop will walk away with the ability to understand how to use the airbrush and paint anything from a face and body to t-shirts and murals. We happen to use makeup as our medium.
-What do you think may be the biggest misconception or myth concerning airbrush makeup today?
The biggest misconception about airbrushing makeup is that it’s heavy or cakey. The opposite is true. The artist controls the amount of product and layers on the skin. Once the technique is mastered, the option for sheer to full coverage is in the artists’ hand. Some products have more opacity than others so choosing the right makeup is also key to a beautiful application.

The model above is Emily Dann. She is airbrushed with Hydro Foundation R1, Contoured with Shadow and her eyes are airbrushed with the Liquid Metal Iron Maiden.

 -What new product are you presenting here at the Makeup Show?

Our latest creation is Fixx Crème Correctors. This is an abbreviated collection of Light, Medium and Dark crème colors that have an orange/salmon base. They are perfect for neutralizing blue and brown whether it is under the eyes or around the mouth area. They are waterproof and contain skin care benefits which is always a plus when wearing a product on a daily basis.

-Do you have new additions coming up for your airbrush makeup or equipment lines?

We are working on some new colors for the Hydro Foundation Series that will be vibrant and fun. It’s always evolving but only at a pace that is controlled by quality, not quantity.

-Educating about your product is a significant part of your company's activity, with a busy schedule of national and international workshops throughout the year. How do you enjoy teaching?

In the event that I do teach a class, it is always filled with laughter and fun. Airbrushing is playing and who doesn’t want to play for a living? I try to find the fun in everything that I do.

This image was done in an extreme makeup class. Courtney's brows were blocked out and airbrushed over with the colors in our Hydro Color theory collection.

-How would you sum up the most distinctive quality of your product and company?

Kett Cosmetics provides a level of product, equipment and education that is focused entirely on the professional artist. Attention to ingredients and performance in front of the HD camera is what sets us apart.  In 1998, I started product development on our first liquid makeup. Having contacts in the industry and freelance jobs provided the arena for me to test the products live and make adjustments to the formula before launching in 2003. We continue to test all new products on camera in our HD Studio. When it comes to airbrushing, we believe that it should be a professional service and not promoted as a “do it yourself at home” type of product. The bar is set high.

-What is the next dream in line for you?  
Continuing to grow as an airbrush artist, creating new products and taking care of my parents would be a dream come true.
 

Meeting Sheila was a real treat, and I admit to being a little star struck. She represents her brand with kindness, humanity and a winning "hard rock" charm that is quite unique. I look forward to getting to know Kett even better, and to meeting her again.

Just for fun: This is my latest portrait of Salvador Dali using black and white airbrush paints on steel