Welcome to airbrush makeup! In these pages you will find unbiased indipendent airbrush makeup reviews, video tutorials, and everything about airbrushing makeup not just from the US but from Europe and the world at large. The guru is in...
How is the beauty industry going to be impacted by the Covid-19 virus? As the world is still struggling to gauge the scale of the pandemic and its implications for the economy, it might seem too early to ponder this question. Yet there is one thing that already appears obvious and tragic: the way we interact with each other is not going to be the same for a very long time.
In a recent post on Facebook, the creator of a once very popular beauty brand posed an interesting question: how many people will want you to touch their face after this? He then proceeded to make an interesting parallel with the aftermath of 9/11 and what that meant for the professional lives of makeup artists in the US, speculating that this current crisis may well have far more lasting implications on a global scale. Will our perception of the importance of self image forever be affected by the long quarantine that we are experiencing? Will working from home and apart become the new norm, and will the importance of appearing in person be dramatically reduced for the foreseeable future?
While it is really too early to tell, the questions are certainly valid and will soon be urgent for a whole sector of our economy both at corporate and individual business level.
My own intuition is perhaps obvious, given who I am and what I struggle to represent: I strongly believe that now more than ever, airbrush makeup represents a unique opportunity in the face of the challenges ahead. The fact that airbrushing offers the cleanest application available represents a stunning opportunity in the face of future hardship, if you think that an accomplished airbrush makeup artist can execute a whole makeup almost without touching the face -and yes, that can include eyes down to the eyeliner and eyebrows.
For those who stumbled upon these page and are wondering what I am talking about, in airbrush application the makeup goes from the bottle to the airbrush reservoir, and is then sprayed on the skin without any need for brushes, sponges and most importantly fingers. With proper care there is no cross contamination whatsoever and every client receives the benefit of pristine tools and products. Add that to single-use lip and mascara applicators, and you have created the cleanest possible makeup application. You can check any of my videos to see how very little, if at all, I need to touch my model's skin.
Of course I still believe mainstream beauty conglomerates will never give this technique a real chance, due to its learning curve, however small, and its reduced profit margins: in airbrushing, a single airbrush does the job of a whole brush set, and in most cases one product does the job of three or four traditional ones, for example foundation barely needing primer, powder and setting spray.
However those courageous brands and forward -thinking makeup artists that have decided to produce and invest in this medium, are now faced with a unique opportunity to satisfy a potentially radical change in people's perception: the need for the maximum hygiene standards met by maximum makeup performance.
It is to salute these very brands that I am publishing this year's update to our LINKS page (no monetization or sponsorship involved) , where you will find a list of every airbrush makeup related brand and business in the world.
As for the makeup artists, this whole website is a free resource that I have created to help you in your first approach to airbrushing, or to take your skills to the highest level if you already have some knowledge of this amazing medium.
Please help me keep our LINKS page current by reading it and suggesting updates and edits.
The whole airbrush makeup industry would not be what it is today if it wasn't for Dinair.When Dina Ousley and George Lampman created this brand in 1981, they where the first company dedicated exclusively to airbrush makeup, and the first to produce a line specifically for beauty airbrush makeup. The small revolution that they created in the industry continues until today with an incredibly dynamic approach where nothing stands still and innovation is the name of the game.
In the past we have covered Dinair's product lines extensively, and we will add a recap again at the end of this post for those who are approaching this brand for the first time, but now let's have a look at what is new for this year.
Compressor: Portability is the name of the game
Dinair started at the very beginning with a basic intuition: in airbrushing less is more. This applies to everything, from the amount of makeup you use to the size and weight of the tools you apply it with. Dinair's formula is specifically designed to be sprayed at very low pressure and with a lower flow ratio (liters of air per minute). Rather than using a third party manufacturer for their equipment, Dinair has designed and made its proprietary tools. Through the years the kits have become increasingly smaller and lighter, and when those two aspects couldn't be further improved, the machines have become battery operated for unrestricted portability. The flagship, variable speed Personal Pro compressor was joined this year by a battery operated version, the Pro Rechargeable, which is only slightly thicker and heavier and which retains the same specs but with the added benefit of the battery. Later in 2019 Dinair introduced its latest innovation: The Dinair One is a tiny hand held, cable and hose free system that is the smallest and lightest of its kind, with a pressure output set at the ideal strength for all Dinair fomulas. I am absolutely in love with this unit, and it has taken since taken the leading role in all my Dinair applications. Please read the full review here and watch me apply a complete makeup with it in the video below.
Airbrush: The best one yet
Dinair JX2 Airbrush
The One kit came with a surprise: the JX2 airbrush. This latest tool was quietly introduced on Dinair's website shortly after The One launched, and seems to have replaced the previous CX model. When I first saw it I thought this might have been a step back from the CX as the nozzle was a classic screw-on nozzle, while the CX had a conic one that could be taken out and reassembled by simple pressure. The fact is that after three months of extensive use with all the Dinair formulas, my JX2 is running as perfectly as the very first day, and I have not needed to take it apart at all for deep cleaning. The only maintenance I have done is the use of the Dinair Cleaning Caps at the end of each day of use. This consists of two silicone caps that come included with the airbrush, and that allow you to clean it very fast simply by pouring some Dinair cleaner in the airbrush and leaving it to work for a while, or even overnight. The JX2 airbrush now comes with a warning notice that discourages you from attempting to disassemble it. While I am certainly not afraid to take an airbrush apart, I am happy to report that I simply never needed to do that with this one, and this is an absolute first in my airbrush history with any brand.
Makeup: The new Velvet foundation line
Dinair Velvet Foundation
With three foundation lines, a neutralizer, an extender and a tattoo cover product all declined in 22 matching shades (see below), I thought Dinair had one of the (if not the most) extensive range for skin out there. So when I heard about the addition of a further line called Velvet my first reaction was sceptical. Then I had a chance to try the product, and of course I saw exactly why it makes a great addition to the range. The finish of the Velvet foundation is exactly that: a soft, velvety quality that is right in between the lightness of the Glamour line and the high coverage of the Radiance range. While differences in the HD world of airbrush makeup are of course very subtle, Velvet provides a beautiful coverage that is more forgiving on difficult areas such as around the eyes, where it won't enhance fine lines at all if properly applied.
Makeup: New Eyeshadow Colors
Dinair has an unrivalled range of eye shadow colors. The shades are not only beautiful, but their formulation has improved to the point of being totally crease free and water and rub resistant. Add the incredible pigmentation, which is buildable from sheer to crazy in a few quick passes, and you have a product which should take the world by storm if there was any justice or sense in the beauty industry. As I endeavour to demonstrate in all of my videos, the possibility offered by airbrush eyeshadow are simply breath taking, and it's a shame that more pro artist won't invest the little practice that airbrush eyeshadow requires to do it justice. Two amazing new collections have been added recently to the Colair Opalescent line: the Crystallized and the Venus collections These include opalescent, semi matte and downright sparkling colors that are simply unbelievable. Among them my all time favorite Venus, part of a selected few shades which sparkle as though they had been infused with diamond dust. This kind of shine is often found on powder palettes and I didn't think it was possible for airbrush, until I saw these shades. While they are produced right on site, not all the colors we mention may be available at some given point. The best way to find a specific color if you are looking for it is to input its name in the website's search field.
I could go on and on about Dinair's amazing products, but now it's time to provide new comers with a streamlined guide to the lines. I hope Dina and George will continue in their trailblazing, unparalleled endevour to "spray the world beautiful" for many years to come.
DISCLAIMER: This is an unsponsored, unpaid review based solely on my experience and opinion, like any other review on this website. DISCLAIMER: Dinair airbrushes and compressor are designed to work exclusively with Dinair makeup. While the makeup itself can of course be used with any professional airbrush equipment, my opinions of the brand and its products are are borne out of strict compliance with their guidelines.
Dinair Product Guide for the uninitiated:
Foundation Lines and Complements, all available in 20 matching shades, all inter-mixable
-Natural: (AKA Glamour) the most natural finish, glamour offers the highest coverage with the lightest texture. Naturally matte finish.
-Velvet: As the name suggests, a soft focus, comfortable semi matte finish that works well even on delicate, textured skin areas.
-Matte: (AKA Colair Soft Glow) Light buildable coverage that is matte, yet luminous. Some prefer this line for bridal makeup.
-Satin: (AKA Colair Radiance) Luminous, intense coverage with improved comfort. Many prefer this line for mature skin.
Foundation Add Ons
-Neutralizer: (AKA Paramedical/Camouflage) This line has a small percentage of cosmetic alcohol that renders it more water and rub resistant. It is ideal to even out the skin and hide more visible imperfections before applying your preferred Dinair foundation.
-Extender: This is an additive that improves the durability of your chosen Dinair foundation and renders it more water and rub resistant
-Tattoo Cover: (AKA Colair Extreme): This amazing product allows for the fastest, most water and rub resistant tattoo cover up imaginable. A true game changer, it requires a little practice and fast cleaning from your system using the standard Dinair Cleaner and Cleaning Caps system
Please be sure to check Dinair's amazing eye shadow, eye brow and Hair touch up color lines. They are self explanatory and easy to find on the Dinair Website.
Every once in a while the makeup world is shaken by an innovation that sets the course of the industry for the foreseeable future. This is true for the world of mainstream beauty brands and it applies just as well in the more specialized, somewhat elusive niche of airbrush makeup. Dinair's new system, aptly named "The One", is the next and in many ways the ultimate step in the move towards portability that has been the goal of this sector for the last few years. "The One" system is an incredibly compact mini compressor that is slightly bigger than an egg, and only slightly heavier, yet it features an impressive and ultra quiet pressure output, a very durable battery, a fantastically ergonomic shape and most importantly, a spring clasp (standard "quick connect") that lets you swap airbrushes in seconds.
The pressure output is that sweet perfect setting that allows you to spray any of Dinair's formulas (all water based) without any problems, achieving perfect atomization even with shades that contain shimmers, which are usually the ones requiring more power in your standard table top unit.
The body of the compressor is made of a very attractive black high tech rubber polymer (like a deluxe cellphone case but thicker) with a matte, satin finish that is almost velvety to the touch, and a polished Dinair logo on the side that reflects the light and looks almost like silver in photos. There is only one button on the unit to switch it on and off, and as I was saying the output is so quiet that you can use it in a hotel room (or pretty much anywhere else) without fear of disturbing anybody, even if they are sleeping on the other side of a thin bathroom door.
Charging time is about an hour, but you don't have to do any guess work about the time because the charger has a red light that will turn green when the battery is full. The duration of a single charge is quite impressive. When I unpacked my unit I went on using it every day for over a week for base and several tests before I had to recharge it for the very first time. The pressure output does not decrease in a noticeable way as the battery runs out, so you don't really have a warning sign that it will, but you really don't need it anyway as the unit works perfectly even while it's recharging, and the generously long cable that comes with it allows for full mobility.
Ergonomically speaking, how you use "The One" depends on you: if you have small hands, you can just hold the airbrush as you would any other and you quickly forget that the mini compressor is there. If your hands are slightly bigger, the mini compressor will come to nestle in your palm very comfortably.
As far as the airbrush is concerned, "The One" comes with Dinair's newer CX model, more reliable and easier to maintain than any of its predecessors. If you remember to use the enclosed cleaning caps, keeping the airbrush in tip top shape will be a breeze. Should you run into any flow issues however, you will be able to switch airbrushes in seconds and finish your makeup without a glitch.
"The One" comes packed in a plain white box with its kit bundle that includes foundation in your chosen shade range and a selection of shade appropriate colors for blush, highlight and eyeshadow. At the moment it is only available as part of a makeup kit, but I am confident that Dinair will make the compressor available on its own for established customers who already use the brand and will want to switch to this irresistible portable option.
"The One" represents an immense improvement over the firs limited edition hand held unit that was sold by Dinair a couple of years ago. This new proprietary design is the smallest, most efficient and versatile cable and hose free, palm top system out there. I absolutely love it and it has taken the prime spot on my desk for my Dinair products. In the enclosed video I used The One to realize this complete makeup, using all Dinair colors also from the new Venus Collection and their just released Velvet foundation line. A more detailed review of these products will follow in my next post.
Pro Tips:
-The quicker the compressor is turned off at the end of each makeup step, the longer the battery lasts and the less dry tip. Most makeup builds up sets on the needle tip when the airbrush is only blowing air, between applications and not applying makeup. The on/off button is positioned directly below where the ring finger tip typically rests when holding the ONE.
-Only use the Dinair One compressor with continuous airflow airbrushes. If the airflow is blocked (by an airbrush with the air valve closed such as a standard Double Action) it can quickly result in damage to the compressor, that is not covered by the warranty.
Author's note: as with all of my reviews this far, this is an unsponsored and unpaid review. I wish to thank Dina Ousley, George Lampman and Dasia Sibrian at Dinair for kindly making this product available to me, and for their invaluable help and insight.
Airbrush makeup allows for the fastest, most durable and most undetectable tattoo coverage. In the video tutorial below you can see the process carried out mostly in real time. In this post I would like to go a little deeper into the details, but first an important disclaimer: while airbrushing as a technique is much easier than commonly perceived, I would definitely not improvise on others before extensive practice. Attend a class if you can, and if you can't be sure to check these pages for more information that may be useful in selecting the equipment and products that are best for you.
PRODUCT SELECTION
Airbrushing offers incredible coverage that will be practically imperceptible, thanks to the process of nebulization of the foundation. There are many brands that produce makeup that is specifically designed to be used with an airbrush, and that will dry fast and be more durable than traditional brands. My first advice is therefore to use a made for airbrush product rather than try to dilute and spray your normal foundation. Airbrushing traditional products will still save you application time, but traditional formulas will not gain more durability simply by being sprayed. While silicone based makeup will retain its water proof finish, there are specific products created by airbrush brands specifically to cover tattoo, and these are the ones that will allow for the best results. Among these, two are definitely worth mentioning: Tattoo Cover by Dinair and the Dura line by Temptu.
Tattoo Cover (formerly known as Colair Extreme) is a water based formula that becomes totally water and rub proof once applied. It is truly an extraordinary product that can also serve as blocking concealer on the most severe skin irregularities, as well as latex safe skin color for SFX prosthetic applications. The product is available in a range of shades matching almost every color in Dinair's beauty lines (Glamour, Radiance, Soft Glow and Neutralizer).
The Dura line by Temptu is an alcohol based foundation that is available in the 12 shades of the classic S/B line by the same brand. Adjuster colors for color correction are also available, but almost never necessary in that the product offers enough coverage even for the darkest tattoos.
Other products that can be used successfully for tattoo camouflaging are the Endura line by European Body Art, the Hydro Proof line by Kett and the Nebula line by Kryolan. Non-monetized links to all these brands are available in our LINKS page.
HOW TO COVER TATTOOS: A STEP BY STEP GUIDE
The process of covering up a tattoo is pretty much the same for all the products listed above, regardless of their specific formulation. Each step will have a slightly different duration depending on the product you chose to use.
STEP 1: Shaving the area
Shaving the area you are going to cover is always necessary, even when there are no hairs visible to the naked eye. Even the tiniest, thinnest hairs will create texture unless we shave the skin first.
STEP 2: Cleansing the skin.
A couple of minutes after shaving the area you can move on to cleansing with IPA. This will eliminate any oily residue and the skin will be ready for the application.
STEP 3: Light layers
Now you can move on to layering the color in light passes. Color matching before starting is crucial in order to find the shade (or shade mix) that will be right for the skin tone. Don't be tempted to cover the whole tattoo immediately, as this will lead to hot spots and visible product accumulation. Proceed in light passes and keep the airbrush at the right distance. You will see the tattoo fade more and more with each pass, and by working this way you will allow each layer to dry before moving to the next one. As colors oxidize once applied and usually darken, this will give you a better sense of the final result. As I was saying, color correcting is almost always redundant with the products I have listed above.
STEP 4: Setting Powder
Once you have layered enough passes you can move on to setting the area with HD powder or any fine powder. This will eliminate any residual wetness or stickiness. I advise using a flesh tone powder rather than a white or clear one, as these will leave behind a whitish cast. You can apply the powder by brush and later remove any excess with a setting spray or even water.
STEP 5:Spattering (Optional)
Even if the airbrushed coverage doesn't add texture to the skin, its blocking power could create a very uniform effect that might look a little artificial also depending on the color scheme of the skin we are covering. In order to break up this seamlessness a to achieve a more natural result, we can break up the tonality by spattering darker foundation shades (or even blush shades if alcohol based). In order to spatter with your airbrush you simply have to remove the needle and nozzle cap and lower the air pressure to the minimum, then flick the airbrush lever. Of course you will have to be extra careful not to touch the skin with the exposed needle.
CLEANING YOUR TOOLS AND REMOVING THE MAKEUP
When working with alcohol based products or with Dinair's Tatoo Cover it is crucial that you clean the airbrush immediately after the application. Failure to do so will lead to a very long, in-depth cleaning of all the pieces later on, because these colors create a sort of stubborn film in the deepest recesses of the airbrush. Removing the makeup from the skin on the other hand is quite simple if you use IPA or lacking that a very oily makeup remover.
"BEAUTY" CAMOUFLAGE OR SPECIAL EFFECTS?
For best results it is important to keep in mind that covering tattoos for "beauty" purposes is rather a camouflage work, where the primary goal is to prevent the eyes from focusing on what would otherwise be an obvious feature. If your goal is an absolutely perfect coverage that may recreate the exact color scheme of the rest of the skin unto the smallest details, you most likely will not use the technique described above, but rather a a multiple layer spattering of sheer alcohol base colors. This spattering technique is used in Special Effects, and it is not the object of this tutorial.
Bristish airbrush makeup brand Mistair was the very first brand I reviewed on these pages when I started publishing this website. I had met the Mistair team at that year's edition of Cosmoprof in Italy, and as they were the only brand dealing in airbrush makeup at that show I spent quite some time getting to know their products and lines.
Today Mistair has a more streamlined yet still extensive product line that includes 14 foundation shades, 8 colors for blush and and highlighters respectively, 7 for eyebrows, and 8 adjuster and corrector shades. There are also a water based and an alcohol based line for body painting, and a very interesting product to create effects on hair called Hairlites.
The Mistair Formula
Mistair Airbrush Makeup
All the beauty makeup colors are silicone based. The formula, which I think has been updated since I first used it, is comparable to Temptu's S/B line, but it's lighter in texture and quicker to dry. The foundation has a very natural finish and feels super light on the skin, with buildable coverage that starts sheer and intensifies to full with a few passes. The blush colors are delicately pigmented but can be built up to achieve more intensity as well. The opalescent highlighter colors offer beautiful shades, some of which are duo chrome such as the lovely Cornsilk, pearly white with pink overtones. As with any airbrush beauty product, all the colors can be used for all purposes, and the faster drying time makes them suitable and easy to use on the eyelids to create fast and natural eye shadows. As I didn't have the eyebrow color kit, I was able to fill the eyebrows well with the darkest foundation shade, and the result was very natural and durable, as you can see in the enclosed video tutorial.
The Onyx Kit
MIstair Onyx Airbrush Kit
The airbrush kit offering from Mistair is currently limited to three models. Starting at 159 British Pounds, The Onyx Airbrush Makeup Starter Kit is the least expensive of the three, and is the entry level option. It features a standard compressor with an adjustable airflow, a rubber tube suitable for "plug-in" connectors and a Continuous Flow airbrush, incorrectly described as "single action" on the website. For those who still struggle with the terminology, Continuous Flow means that the air flows out of the airbrush unobstructed as soon as the compressor is turned on, and that you use the lever to regulate the amount of color your are dispensing. This is a mode chosen by most beauty companies and it is perfectly effective and efficient for beauty makeup. The compressor is also mistakenly credited with a maximum working pressure of just 15 PSI, but I have personally tested it with a pressure gauge and have seen that it reaches 20 PSI comfortably, which is a plus. It still isn't particularly powerful and might struggle with thicker formulas, but it won't have any problems with the Mistair products, for which it was intended.
100% Airbrushed with Mistair
There are several combinations to choose from as far as the makeup bundled with the kit is concerned. The Onyx Starter Kit comes with a custom made packet of colors including four foundation shades (selectable from the fair, medium or deep groups), and one matching blush, highlighter and eyebrow color. Of course the more colors you get the more options for fun and practice you will have, and the more expensive De Luxe version of the Onyx kit offers more shades, with the same equipment. Like many brands, Mistair bundles its colors in very convenient starter kits, and in this brand's case they are very reasonably priced, so it will be possible to add on to your kit later without hurting the wallet too much. The starter kits packaging has been updated in recent years, and everything looks very slick. Unfortunately they still use the same bottles for their 7.5 ml packs. These infernal little bottles seem to let in air somehow, and after a while you will notice that the aqueous part of the colors decreases even if you don't use them. I suggest tightening the caps of each bottle as soon as you receive them, you will notice that you can twist the caps at least an extra half a turn, which hopefully will slow down the evaporation. Also very annoying are the stickers at the bottom of each bottle, which will come off even before you take them out of the package, making the color identification very confusing. I advise you to glue them on with a strong glue as soon as you receive them. On a much happier packaging note, Mistair has created a beautiful case for the Onyx with custom molded foam inserts, which are detachable. The case is very sleek and once again reasonably priced. I would definitely recommend it for the sleekest possible look of your airbrush kit.
Mistair Ingredients:
Purified Water, Cyclotetrasiloxane (and)
Cyclopentasiloxane, Glycerin, Polysobutene, Cetyl Dimethicone, Copoyol, Sodium
Chloride, C12-15, Alkyl Bensoate, VP/VA Copolymer, Methyl Paraben, Disodium
EDTA, Propyl Paraben, +/- Acrylates Copolymer. May contain: Titanium Dioxide
(and) Methicone, Yellow Iron oxide, Red Iron Oxide, Black Iron Oxide, Carbon
black, CL 77891, CL 45410, CL 77007, CL 77288
What is the best primer for airbrush makeup? Where can I buy a silicone free primer? Do I even need a primer with airbrush makeup? These are some of the most common questions I get in my classes and online. The subject is vast, the answer to the questions needn't be. Let's do this!
Prepping the skin for airbrush makeup is as necessary as it is with your traditional beauty routine. The general rule is simply to avoid oil based formulas, which would by nature repel or destabilize any liquid that is layered upon them, and use as little product as possible. If your skin is young, supple and blemish free, a simple light moisturizer used a few minutes before application will do. For any other skin condition (mature, oily, dry and so on), the general rule is to find the right balance between your skin care routine and the finish and consistency of the airbrush product you are going to use. If you came to this post thinking that airbrush makeup is one and the same for all brands, you should know that each product varies according to composition and manufacturer, just like traditional makeup does.
Airbrushable primers
Many brands of airbrush makeup produce their own ready to airbrush primers.These are generally very light formulas designed to moisturize the skin with the best compatibility for the product that will follow. They are mostly water based, such as Tickled Pink or Luminess, or might contain a light amount of dymethicone, such as Belloccio. If you have normal skin and live in a dry climate you may benefit from these formulas and their lightness, however some people might find them a little too thin, and might prefer a more comforting finish. Temptu Brilliant Glow is a new airbrushable primer which is silicone based and has a much thicker consistency than other products. As the name implies, it adds a very subtle luminosity to the skin, and was created to mitigate the matte finish of Temptu's Perfect Canvas foundation. Because of its density, you will need an airbrush and compressor of the same power as Temptu's, however you can still apply this with a brush or sponge if you have a less powerful machine (such as the ones intended for water based makeup only).
Silicone Free primers
What if you want to avoid silicone in your skin care altogether? While silicone is inert and does not cause allergies, some people are sensitive to its prolonged use, meaning they show signs of intolerance such as blemishes and irritation. In these cases, silicone free alternatives will be the only options. While less common, silicone free primers do exist. Smashbox makes Primer Water, a water based product that can be used for both prepping the skin and as a makeup finishing spray, with a super light consistency. Milk Makeup produces the cult favorite Hydro Grip primer, with a more comforting gel like consistency and a more luminous finish, and mostly natural ingredients. If you wish to stay on the natural path, Nurturing Force produces its famous Blot Out Offensive and Twinkle Not Wrinkle primers, which we reviewed extensively in this post. If you are in Europe, two products really stand out. For oily or combination skin, Ten Image ProfessionalMatt Primer provides a super long lasting matte finish. You can use it on your T zone and even very sparingly on the eyelids to mattify the eyelid and prevent any cracking of your airbrushed eyeshadow. Bronx Colors CosmeticsStudio Line Magic Primer has a light, creamy texture, is very moisturizing and provides a lasting luminous finish that will add a very healthy glow to more opaque foundation lines.
Traditional primers
Let's say that my preferred airbrush makeup is water based. Would the presence of silicone in a primer really affect the durability and finish of water based
airbrush makeup? Generally speaking, not really. It really depends on
the concentration of silicone and other plasticizers in the formula.
Personally, I would stay away from super slick formulas such as Urban
Decay's or Benefit, but a the presence of common silicones such as
dymethicone or cyclopentasiloxane in a primer does not affect the finish
or durability, so much so that even the skin care sold by Dinair to be
used with their products contains them. British airbrush makeup brand AirBase produces a perfect cross over between the two worlds: First Base Perfecting Primer is a Swiss formula with hydrating platinum technology that is slick at first but absorbs quickly to a soft, matte finish that is perfect both for their silicone formula and for any traditional makeup. Temptu's classic S/B Primer is a rich, super smooth formula that leaves the skin beautifully soft and mattified, and has the gorgeous light fragrance of its S/B line. It's also reasonably priced, which makes it the preferred choice of many. For the eyelids, regardless of the composition of the airbrushed eyeshadow, Make Up ForeverStep 1 Skin Equalizer Mattifying is a perfect choice, just use it very sparingly and your eyeshadow will not crack even on textured, very oily eyelids.
Special thanks for the advice and information on some of these products to my amazing friends Regina Azizova @reginainneverland and Krysteane Duarte @Iheartairbrush
Simply put, Temptu is the world’s most popular silicone based airbrush makeup brand. While I have visited their showrooms several times in the past, I have never had a chance to interview the forces behind this amazing company, who seem keen on maintaining a lower profile than most, perhaps in deference to their vision of Temptu as a team based business. Michael Benjamin is Temptu’s CEO, and has been with the company practically from its inception. This very affable, fast talking gentleman is possessed by an infectious enthusiasm for his company, almost as if he wasn’t aware of the legendary status it has gained among the niche of makeup artists who have fallen in love with the brand.
I was lucky enough to spend some time with Michael at Cosmoprof 2019, in my own city of Bologna, Italy. I had been waiting for Temptu to take part to this show for years, and almost couldn’t believe when I finally saw their booth on the floor of the massive trade fair. I am especially proud to welcome Michael to our Airbrush Makeup Hall of Fame, where this medium is celebrated for its own culture, and where I like to introduce the creators and the artists that move this culture forward.
How did the Temptu brand get started, and who created it?
Sam Zuckerman was the creator of the brand, which has been around since 1980. He did camouflage for the Army in WW2 and he was in cosmetics forever, working for Revlon and all the big companies. He was the very gifted chemist who put the stripes in stripe toothpaste, and for Saint Patrick ’s Day he made the Chicago river green. He was always an independent, then a couple of movie artists approached him for a movie called Tattoo (now a hard to find cult favorite) and that’s how Temptu was born. For the first ten years Temptu was doing temporary tattoos [hence the name of the company], and they were doing it for the movies. At first we would literally screen right onto the body, then we found a way to get the designs onto newsprint, and finally we found a better print paper that was not newsprint paper but a cosmetic paper. We had an amazing process of making temporary tattoos that nobody had, and it became a big Hollywood hit as well as in fairs and theme parks. That’s when we started a business.
What about your own background? How did you start in this business?
I was in the restaurant business, and one time I had to figure out a way to put tattoos on my waiter-actors for a 1950’s themed diner. There were basically no temporary tattoos on the market except for these first Temptu products. I found them as they were being used in another restaurant in the Theater District called Trixie’s, and through them I got to meet Roy Zuckerman (Sam’s son) at Temptu. I was young and I did not want to be in the restaurant business forever. Roy gave me a summer job at the same time the movie Cape Fear was being filmed, and all of a sudden I am new to New York and I’m alone in a room with Robert De Niro and a makeup artist. I loved this new, weird and eclectic business and that is what got me in. Within a few years we started airbrushing tattoos. Temptu partnered with leading airbrush maker Iwata. We were the first to do airbrush tattoos and that’s how we started learning the airbrush technology.
L to R: Stephanie Koutikas, Greg Mandor, Regina Azizova, me, Michael Benjamin
So the first few makeup lines were created mainly for tattoos…
Yes at the beginning in the 90’s Dura was the first line, that is what we used in the movie Tattoo, and we kept improving it. Unfortunately Sam Zuckerman passed away in the 90’s, but until then he used to grind the paint and the pigment himself. It was a crazy little basement lab, we were making paint in our office too… it was crazy, we have grown a lot from those days…
How did beauty makeup come into play then?
I took a break from the business in ‘94 to ‘96. I went to Russia and I was back in the restaurant business and when I came back we looked at where we were… We had a business that was very busy in the summer and very slow at other times. We knew that airbrushing had started spreading in the beauty makeup sector with Dinair. God Bless Dina [Ousley], she is the godmother of airbrushing and we give her a lot of credit for starting it. This was before the internet, and a bit later we came out with our own formula that was water based and we launched it at the first ever IMATS as Temptu Pro. It was not just airbrush at the time, it was also special effects products. We produced alcohol based palettes and started competing on that level as well. We were a NY based company and it was hard to break into the Hollywood scene at that time. We were mainly doing NY productions and people in the West Coast were mainly doing West Coast productions, and we thought it was easier that way as we were not stepping on anyone’s toes. That’s what really launched Temptu in ’97.
So you actually launched Temptu with a water based formula…
Yes, it was our original Aqua formula. A makeup artist named Syliva Pichler said we need to make this formula better so she and our chemist Roy started working on it and it was on the bench for two years. If Dina is the godmother of airbrushing, Sylvia is the Godmother of Temptu, so to speak. She is still working with us and I will always have her on my staff as long as she wants to be. She is our master educator and she does great classes in our NY showroom she also helps us on R&D and we love her opinion and people see her as a visionary.
We enjoy her so much on her live videos…
She has such a great personality, she was a jazz singer although I am not supposed to tell anyone, she might get mad. She has one of those characters, she can take the stage over, and she is an amazing artist who knows what it takes down to the ingredients, she has always studied everything…
Was it her idea to start with silicone based line?
I’m not sure where it came from. I think it came from Hollywood, but at the end of the day I do not really like focussing on one ingredient so much. Water is an important part of our formula too. I see a lot of water based companies that have silicone and in the end it’s about emulsions and blending ingredients. We have more water than most in some of our formulas. For me it’s more about pro performance, and that is the inspiration rather than the ingredients. That is was Sylvia and Roy ultimately achieved for the company, and that’s when we became famous. When SB came out in 2002 we became known for creating a superior product.
S/B was a game changer…
Yes it put Temptu on the map of airbrush makeup and ultimately beauty makeup became our main focus, while special effects and tattoos remained in the line.
You have been sharing the work with your wife and partner, Samantha Mandor...
Yes she is my wife and business partner and her brother Greg is my business partner as well.
So how are your roles divided, I know she was behind the design of latest Temptu Air hand held applicator…
She is the boss lady; she raised my kids and runs the business with me. She is book smart and she keeps things tight and organized and so does Greg who is our CFO and COO. We consider Sam our chief marketing officer, and they call me CEO but I am like that wacky guy… I am like Roy Zuckerman who comes up with a 100 ideas. But in truth we all collaborate well together. And not just Sam and Greg and myself, but all the employees as well, as we see them all as partners in this business. Sam is the one who holds everything together; she is the heart and soul of Temptu.
Is there a turning point or main event the defined the shape of the business?
The movie Stepford Wives. I think SB was never better used in the early days than in that movie. We create makeup that can be used by hand or air and people use it in both ways. In Stepford Wives we used it by hand on the body and by airbrush on the faces, and if you look back at the movie the women’s skin looked perfect, like porcelain. Cape Fear with Robert De Niro was the defining moment for our tattoo Dura line, and Stepford Wives was the turning point for our S/B line. We were very honoured to be part of both of these movies that put us on the map in the airbrush makeup world. I feel proud that we have given makeup artist the ability to work faster, market themselves more easily and charge more. Temptu has established itself for giving great complexion and that is our foundation. We have always had our in-house chemist going back to Sam Zuckerman. Our makeup is beautiful however you put it on, and airbrush gives you options as to layer it, and have the blush underneath the foundation as well as highlighting.
What do you think is keep airbrush makeup from going mainstream?
I think it is an educational problem, people being intimidated by the product and not wanting to a learn a new thing, but on the other hand professionals really get it after they see the finished product. I think that if consumers could only see how easy it is… I watch my wife put in on in 15 seconds in the morning and it speeds thing up for her, as she takes 20 minutes for her hair... We are at the Cosmoprof right now and we were just awarded the Cinderella Effect prize, which is indicative of the fact that people want instant results. I don’t think there is a faster way to better complexion than with Temptu, it takes only 15 or 20 seconds for a light to medium coverage and this is what we need to keep pushing out there the in the marketing world. We need to promote the idea that People need not to be afraid to learn something that is quite simple to use, as well the difference that airbrush makeup looks so natural. We are also happy with the Perfect Canvas line. It is the perfect combination of makeup and skincare. I always say the S/B is the mother, and Perfect Canvas the daughter who went to university to get a skincare degree. After using Perfect Canvas people feel their skin is healthier, and we have clinical studies that show that. I think that is the future. We also have a new product that has skin care properties that is called Core 7, and if you use it consistently it has wrinkle reducing properties.
Tell us more about it.
Core 7, the number stands for the seven signs of aging. It’s a new product that we will come out with in the fall. We want people to take care of their skin, we want people to use less makeup, based on the idea that I think the less is more when it comes to makeup. A lot of people want to see the makeup they apply, but as Sylvia says, if you can see it you’ve put too much on. We want to promote the idea of healthy people with healthy skin who just add a finishing touch. As a brand we want to hear from the artist, the artist has always inspired us and that is why we are the brand we are today. Silvia is an artist and it is just not her but she was probably inspired by artist as well, but we do what the artist want, we took a ten pound compressor and make it into 8 ounces and made it portable because that is what artists want we want them not to have a heavy bag so we are always inspired by the artist and that is really the vision we have for the company.
As a teacher I see how airbrush makeup changes people’s perspective on makeup. When a product is as effective as yours it literally changes peoples working life. Are you aware of the love that surrounds your brand and how does it make you feel?
It is humbling to me and ultimately it is a validation of our effort. We are working really hard and we are not a big corporation that you can find in all the stores. We are a little entrepreneurial company that is working hard to be inspired by artists, trying to do what they want and take it to the next level for them. Our job as a brand is to focus on pros while waiting for the consumer to catch on, and the “prosumers” that have caught on, God bless them… when you hear that affirmation from people using it means a lot me. It means we are on the right path.
How do you see with the future for Temptu?
I feel that with Temptu or every small company, every year is a new year and you hope you do well and you have to keep moving forward, the forces in this world are very competitive, so I am just honoured that we have been in business this long and we keep doing what we’re doing. We are the Little Engine that Can, and we do need to transform ourselves as we move forward. Right now we may be the airbrush beauty authority, but we want to be the complexion authority, and we want to keep working on products to this end. We are open to everything. As ideas come to me, or artists come to me with ideas, I take everyone seriously and I am ready to listen.
It was a pleasure and an honor to meet Michael and his team, and I hope to see him again soon in New York. As we part, I take pride in telling him that Temptu need not “want” to be the complexion authority in makeup. To the growing number who use their game changing products, they already are.
