Thursday, June 18, 2020

Easy hooded eyes step by step tutorial... with airbrush makeup!



Let's talk about eyeshadow for hooded and textured eyelids. Is airbrush makeup still an option for these types of features? What special actions should you take to avoid cracking and stamping, and to ensure durability? Here's a simple step by step guide as a complement to my latest video tutorial. I like to keep my videos short and to the points, so I made this guide for those who may need further clarification on the the on-screen directions that you will find in the video here below:




STEP 1: Prime the eyelid

Airbrush makeup is a fine mist of nebulized liquid pigment. As such, oily skin makes it harder for the product to perform at its best, especially in the case of hooded eyelids where the skin folds onto itself creating a potentially problematic crease. To best prime the eyelid, cleanse then moisturise the area with a minimum quantity of non oily moisturiser, then apply a mattifying lotion, and finally prime with the smallest amount imaginable of mattifying primer. By "smallest amount" I literally mean the minimum quantity to cover on your brush or sponge so that it can be dabbed lightly on the eyelid. No visible amount should be left on the skin. If the primer used is silicone based (most primers are) it will not cause any problem for water based products, so long as you didn't exceed the quantities and you layer the eyeshadow in light passes, giving each pass a moment to dry. If the skin of the lid area is particularly oily,  a very light dusting of HD (silica) powder will also help improve pigment adhesion and durability. We skipped filming the eye priming part on the video, and went straight to the general face primer, Smash Box Primer Water, which was perfect for our model's skin due to its water like, oil free formula.

STEP 2: Plan the eyeshadow design

If you know how to do traditional eyeshadow on hooded lids, you will know what to do with an airbrush: basically to create an illusion of depth you have to recreate the illusion of a lid crease above its actual natural seat, which is hidden by the over hanging skin. If you are not used to airbrushing color on smaller parts of the face, you can spray only air at the appropriate distance to see where the color will lay: the pressure of the air creates a visible depression on the skin which will help you get accustomed to the direction of the color. Once you have decided where you will apply the eyeshadow, evaluate the potential problems with skin texture: natural creases both horizontal and vertical will have to be opened up for correct application. In order to do that, you may have to gently stretch the skin by raising the eyebrow or the skit at the temple. For finer vertical lines near the tear duct, you can also stretch the area by gently pulling from the bridge of the nose.


STEP 3: Apply color

At this point you are ready to apply the color. Remember to set the pressure at a minimum strength to atomise the color correctly (without visible dots) and comfortably. Actual setting will depend on various factors such as product viscosity and equipment type. Practise on yourself first to ensure you know what you are doing before attempting on someone else. Barely rock the lever until you get a minimal output of color, which you will build up in intensity and coverage with repeated passes. Distance creates the blending, so practice spraying closer and gradually distancing your hand while spraying to create a seamless blend. Remember to dry the color by spraying air only after each layer. If you are stretching the skin to open up folds, remember to dry the color before releasing the skin. For a subtler result, start with lighter colors and use the darkest color for last. When applying on the mobile lid, start from the outer corner, which is always the darkest point. For the lower lid, you can also airbrush eyeshadow creating  a very subtle gradient. In order to do this without discomfort for your client, you will need to use a stencil as shown in the video (check the FREE STENCILS page of this website to download a free template and recreate the very one I am using in the video). The technique is totally problem free and much easier than it looks, so long as you are gentle in placing the stencil and always aware of your air flow. If you are using a double action airbrush, always remember start the air away from the face before you get close to the eye area.

STEP 4: Final touches

Once you have finished your main eyeshadow application, have the customer open their eyes and observe how the texture of the skin changes. If you see gaps due to the change in the skin position, as it often happens with mature skin, you can reapply while gently stretching the skin to open up those areas. In some cases, depending on what formula you are using, you may be able to touch up with a detail brush using a tiny quantity of liquid product (a steel palette is essential to pour a drop of pigment in these cases). If you have trouble doing this of course you always use powder product in matching colors.

I have always been a huge fan of airbrush makeup for eyeshadow as it offers amazing possibilities for an impeccably blended and super fast application. The formulation of the products you are using will determine the steps to take in the application. Both water based and silicone formulas offer beautifully different possibilities. Unlike powder eyeshadow, which very often must be built up in intensity, airbrush product offer 100% pigment intensity almost immediately, which is why you have to be particularly gentle in layering passes. Practice is essential, but becoming proficient takes a lot less than you think.


Wednesday, April 1, 2020

Makeup and the Pandemic: Implications of the Corona Virus Emergency for the Beauty Industry



How is the beauty industry going to be impacted by the Covid-19 virus? As the world is still struggling to gauge the scale of the pandemic and its implications for the economy, it might seem too early to ponder this question. Yet there is one thing that already appears obvious and tragic: the way we interact with each other is not going to be the same for a very long time.

In a recent post on Facebook, the creator of a once very popular beauty brand posed an interesting question: how many people will want you to touch their face after this? He then proceeded to make an interesting parallel with the aftermath of 9/11 and what that meant for the professional lives of makeup artists in the US, speculating that this current crisis may well have far more lasting implications on a global scale. Will our perception of the importance of self image forever be affected by the long quarantine that we are experiencing? Will working from home and apart become the new norm, and will the importance of appearing in person be dramatically reduced for the foreseeable future?
While it is really too early to tell, the questions are certainly valid and will soon be urgent for a whole sector of our economy both at corporate and individual business level.

My own intuition is perhaps obvious, given who I am and what I struggle to represent: I strongly believe that now more than ever, airbrush makeup represents a unique opportunity in the face of the challenges ahead. The fact that airbrushing offers the cleanest application available represents a stunning opportunity in the face of future hardship, if you think that an accomplished airbrush makeup artist can execute a whole makeup almost without touching the face -and yes, that can include eyes down to the eyeliner and eyebrows.
For those who stumbled upon these page and are wondering what I am talking about, in airbrush application the makeup goes from the bottle to the airbrush reservoir, and is then sprayed on the skin without any need for brushes, sponges and most importantly fingers. With proper care there is no cross contamination whatsoever and every client receives the benefit of pristine tools and products. Add that to single-use lip and mascara applicators, and you have created the cleanest possible makeup application. You can check any of my videos to see how very little, if at all, I need to touch my model's skin.

Of course I still believe mainstream beauty conglomerates will never give this technique a real chance, due to its learning curve, however small,  and its reduced profit margins: in airbrushing, a single airbrush does the job of a whole brush set, and in most cases one product does the job of three or four traditional ones, for example foundation barely needing primer, powder and setting spray.
However those courageous brands and forward -thinking makeup artists that have decided to produce and invest in this medium, are now faced with a unique opportunity to satisfy a potentially radical change in people's perception: the need for the maximum hygiene standards met by maximum makeup performance.
It is to salute these very brands that I am publishing this year's update to our LINKS page (no monetization or sponsorship involved) , where you will find a list of every airbrush makeup related brand and business in the world.
As for the makeup artists, this whole website is a free resource that I have created to help you in your first approach to airbrushing, or to take your skills to the highest level if you already have some knowledge of this amazing medium.

Please help me keep our LINKS page current by reading it and suggesting updates and edits.


Daniel Pacini
Editor,
Airbrush Makeup Guru.Com
April 2020

Tuesday, January 21, 2020

What's new at Dinair in 2020 -Airbrush Makeup Review

Dinair: The One Airbrush Kit
The whole airbrush makeup industry would not be what it is today if it wasn't for Dinair. When Dina Ousley and George Lampman created this brand in 1981, they where the first company dedicated exclusively to airbrush makeup, and the first to produce a line specifically for beauty airbrush makeup. The small revolution that they created in the industry continues until today with an incredibly dynamic approach where nothing stands still and innovation is the name of the game.
In the past we have covered Dinair's product lines extensively, and we will add a recap again at the end of this post for those who are approaching this brand for the first time, but now let's have a look at what is new for this year.

Compressor: Portability is the name of the game

Dinair started at the very beginning with a basic intuition: in airbrushing less is more. This applies to everything, from the amount of makeup you use to the size and weight of the tools you apply it with. Dinair's formula is specifically designed to be sprayed at very low pressure and with a lower flow ratio (liters of air per minute). Rather than using a third party manufacturer for their equipment, Dinair has designed and made its proprietary tools. Through the years the kits have become increasingly smaller and lighter, and when those two aspects couldn't be further improved, the machines have become battery operated for unrestricted portability. The flagship, variable speed Personal Pro compressor was joined this year by a battery operated version, the Pro Rechargeable, which is only slightly thicker and heavier and which retains the same specs but with the added benefit of the battery. Later in 2019 Dinair introduced its latest innovation: The Dinair One is a tiny hand held, cable and hose free system that is the smallest and lightest of its kind, with a pressure output set at the ideal strength for all Dinair fomulas. I am absolutely in love with this unit, and it has taken since taken the leading role in all my Dinair applications. Please read the full review here and watch me apply a complete makeup with it in the video below.



Airbrush: The best one yet

Dinair JX2 Airbrush
The One kit came with a surprise: the JX2 airbrush. This latest tool was quietly introduced on Dinair's website shortly after The One launched, and seems to have replaced the previous CX model. When I first saw it I thought this might have been a step back from the CX as the nozzle was a classic screw-on nozzle, while the CX had a conic one that could be taken out and reassembled by simple pressure. The fact is that after three months of extensive use with all the Dinair formulas, my JX2 is running as perfectly as the very first day, and I have not needed to take it apart at all for deep cleaning. The only maintenance I have done is the use of the Dinair Cleaning Caps at the end of each day of use. This consists of two silicone caps that come included with the airbrush, and that allow you to clean it very fast simply by pouring some Dinair cleaner in the airbrush and leaving it to work for a while, or even overnight.  The JX2 airbrush now comes with a warning notice that discourages you from attempting to disassemble it. While I am certainly not afraid to take an airbrush apart, I am happy to report that I simply never needed to do that with this one, and this is an absolute first in my airbrush history with any brand.


Makeup: The new Velvet foundation line

Dinair Velvet Foundation
With three foundation lines, a neutralizer, an extender and a tattoo cover product all declined in 22 matching shades (see below), I thought Dinair had one of the (if not the most) extensive range for skin out there. So when I heard about the addition of a further line called Velvet my first reaction was sceptical. Then I had a chance to try the product, and of course I saw exactly why it makes a great addition to the range. The finish of the Velvet foundation is exactly that: a soft, velvety quality that is right in between the lightness of the Glamour line and the high coverage of the Radiance range. While differences in the HD world of airbrush makeup are of course very subtle, Velvet provides a beautiful coverage that is more forgiving on difficult areas such as around the eyes, where it won't enhance fine lines at all if properly applied.

Makeup: New Eyeshadow  Colors

Dinair has an unrivalled range of eye shadow colors. The shades are not only beautiful, but their formulation has improved to the point of being totally crease free and water and rub resistant. Add the incredible pigmentation, which is buildable from sheer to crazy in a few quick passes, and you have a product which should take the world by storm if there was any justice or sense in the beauty industry. As I endeavour to demonstrate in all of my videos, the possibility offered by airbrush eyeshadow are simply breath taking, and it's a shame that more pro artist won't invest the little practice that airbrush eyeshadow requires to do it justice. Two amazing new collections have been added recently to the Colair Opalescent line: the Crystallized and the Venus collections These include opalescent, semi matte and downright sparkling colors that are simply unbelievable. Among them my all time favorite Venus, part of a selected few shades which sparkle as though they had been infused with diamond dust. This kind of shine is often found on powder palettes and I didn't think it was possible for airbrush, until I saw these shades. While they are produced right on site, not all the colors we mention may be available at some given point. The best way to find a specific color if you are looking for it is to input its name in the website's search field.

I could go on and on about Dinair's amazing products, but now it's time to provide new comers with a streamlined guide to the lines. I hope Dina and George will continue in their trailblazing, unparalleled endevour to "spray the world beautiful" for many years to come.

DISCLAIMER: This is an unsponsored, unpaid review based solely on my experience and opinion, like any other review on this website.
DISCLAIMER: Dinair airbrushes and compressor are designed to work exclusively with Dinair makeup. While the makeup itself can of course be used with any professional airbrush equipment, my opinions of the brand and its products are are borne out of strict compliance with their guidelines.

Dinair Product Guide for the uninitiated: 

Foundation Lines and Complements, all available in 20 matching shades, all inter-mixable 

-Natural: (AKA Glamour) the most natural finish, glamour offers the highest coverage with the lightest texture. Naturally matte finish.
-Velvet: As the name suggests, a soft focus, comfortable semi matte finish that works well even on delicate, textured skin areas.
-Matte: (AKA Colair Soft Glow) Light buildable coverage that is matte, yet luminous. Some prefer this line for bridal makeup.
-Satin: (AKA Colair Radiance) Luminous, intense coverage with improved comfort. Many prefer this line for mature skin.

Foundation Add Ons

-Neutralizer: (AKA Paramedical/Camouflage) This line has a small percentage of cosmetic alcohol that renders it more water and rub resistant. It is ideal to even out the skin and hide more visible imperfections before applying your preferred Dinair foundation.
-Extender: This is an additive that improves the durability of your chosen Dinair foundation and renders it more water and rub resistant
-Tattoo Cover: (AKA Colair Extreme): This amazing product allows for the fastest, most water and rub resistant tattoo cover up imaginable. A true game changer, it requires a little practice and fast cleaning from your system using the standard Dinair Cleaner and Cleaning Caps system

Please be sure to check Dinair's amazing eye shadow, eye brow and Hair touch up color lines. They are self explanatory and easy to find on the Dinair Website.





Wednesday, December 4, 2019

Airbrush Makeup Kit Review: "The One" by Dinair

Dinair The One Airbrush Makeup Tutorial
100% Airbrush Makeup Demo with Dinair One
Every once in a while the makeup world is shaken by an innovation that sets the course of the industry for the foreseeable future. This is true for the world of mainstream beauty brands and it applies just as well in the more specialized, somewhat elusive niche of airbrush makeup. Dinair's new system, aptly named "The One", is the next and in many ways the ultimate step in the move towards portability that has been the goal of this sector for the last few years.
"The One" system is an incredibly compact mini compressor that is slightly bigger than an egg, and only slightly heavier, yet it features an impressive and ultra quiet pressure output, a very durable battery, a fantastically ergonomic shape and most importantly, a spring clasp (standard "quick connect") that lets you swap airbrushes in seconds.

The pressure output is that sweet perfect setting that allows you to spray any of Dinair's formulas (all water based) without any problems, achieving perfect atomization even with shades that contain shimmers, which are usually the ones requiring more power in your standard table top unit.
The body of the compressor is made of a very attractive black high tech rubber polymer (like a deluxe cellphone case but thicker)  with a matte, satin finish that is almost velvety to the touch, and a polished Dinair logo on the side that reflects the light and looks almost like silver in photos. There is only one button on the unit to switch it on and off, and as I was saying the output is so quiet that you can use it in a hotel room (or pretty much anywhere else) without fear of disturbing anybody, even if they are sleeping on the other side of a thin bathroom door.
Charging time is about an hour, but you don't have to do any guess work about the time because the charger has a red light that will turn green when the battery is full. The duration of a single charge is quite impressive. When I unpacked my unit I went on using it every day for over a week for base and several tests before I had to recharge it for the very first time. The pressure output does not decrease in a noticeable way as the battery runs out, so you don't really have a warning sign that it will, but you really don't need it anyway as the unit works perfectly even while it's recharging, and the generously long cable that comes with it allows for full mobility.
Ergonomically speaking, how you use "The One" depends on you: if you have small hands, you can just hold the airbrush as you would any other and you quickly forget that the mini compressor is there. If your hands are slightly bigger, the mini compressor will come to nestle in your palm very comfortably.




As far as the airbrush is concerned, "The One" comes with Dinair's newer CX model, more reliable and easier to maintain than any of its predecessors. If you remember to use the enclosed cleaning caps, keeping the airbrush in tip top shape will be a breeze. Should you run into any flow issues however, you will be able to switch airbrushes in seconds and finish your makeup without a glitch.
"The One" comes packed in a plain white box with its kit bundle that includes foundation in your chosen shade range and a selection of shade appropriate colors for blush, highlight and eyeshadow. At the moment it is only available as part of a makeup kit, but I am confident that Dinair will make the compressor available on its own for established customers who already use the brand and will want to switch to this irresistible portable option.
"The One" represents an immense improvement over the firs limited edition hand held unit that was sold by Dinair a couple of years ago. This new proprietary design is the smallest, most efficient and versatile cable and hose free, palm top system out there. I absolutely love it and it has taken the prime spot on my desk for my Dinair products. In the enclosed video I used The One  to realize this complete makeup, using all Dinair colors also from the new Venus Collection and their just released Velvet foundation line. A more detailed review of these products will follow in my next post.

Pro Tips: 

-The quicker the compressor is turned off at the end of each makeup step, the longer the battery lasts and the less dry tip. Most makeup builds up sets on the needle tip when the airbrush is only blowing air, between applications and not applying makeup. The on/off button is positioned directly below where the ring finger tip typically rests when holding the ONE.

-Only use the Dinair One compressor with continuous airflow airbrushes. If the airflow is blocked (by an airbrush with the air valve closed such as a standard Double Action) it can quickly result in damage to the compressor, that is not covered by the warranty. 
 
Author's note: as with all of my reviews this far, this is an unsponsored and unpaid review. I wish to thank Dina Ousley, George Lampman and Dasia Sibrian at Dinair for kindly making this product available to me, and for their invaluable help and insight.





Friday, June 21, 2019

How to cover tattoos: fast, waterproof and rub proof (With Video Tutorial)


Airbrush makeup allows for the fastest, most durable and most undetectable tattoo coverage. In the video tutorial below you can see the process carried out mostly in real time. In this post I would like to go a little deeper into the details, but first an important disclaimer: while airbrushing as a technique is much easier than commonly perceived, I would definitely not improvise on others before extensive practice. Attend a class if you can, and if you can't be sure to check these pages for more information that may be useful in selecting the equipment and products that are best for you. 

PRODUCT SELECTION

Airbrushing offers incredible coverage that will be practically imperceptible, thanks to the process of nebulization of the foundation. There are many brands that produce makeup that is specifically designed to be used with an airbrush, and that will dry fast and be more durable than traditional brands. My first advice is therefore to use a made for airbrush product rather than try to dilute and spray your normal foundation. Airbrushing traditional products will still save you application time, but traditional formulas will not gain more durability simply by being sprayed. While silicone based makeup will retain its water proof finish, there are specific products created by airbrush brands specifically to cover tattoo, and these are the ones that will allow for the best results. Among these, two are definitely worth mentioning: Tattoo Cover by Dinair and the Dura line by Temptu.

Tattoo Cover (formerly known as Colair Extreme) is a water based formula that becomes totally water and rub proof once applied. It is truly an extraordinary product that can also serve as blocking concealer on the most severe skin irregularities, as well as latex safe skin color for SFX prosthetic applications. The product is available in a range of shades matching almost every color in Dinair's beauty lines (Glamour, Radiance, Soft Glow and Neutralizer).
The Dura line by Temptu is an alcohol based foundation that is available in the 12 shades of the classic S/B line by the same brand. Adjuster colors for color correction are also available, but almost never necessary in that the product offers enough coverage even for the darkest tattoos.
Other products that can be used successfully for tattoo camouflaging are the Endura line by European Body Art, the Hydro Proof line by Kett and the Nebula line by Kryolan. Non-monetized links to all these brands are available in our LINKS page.



HOW TO COVER TATTOOS: A STEP BY STEP GUIDE

The process of covering up a tattoo is pretty much the same for all the products listed above, regardless of their specific formulation. Each step will have a slightly different duration depending on the product you chose to use.

STEP 1: Shaving the area
Shaving the area you are going to cover is always necessary, even when there are no hairs visible to the naked eye. Even the tiniest, thinnest hairs will create texture unless we shave the skin first. 

STEP 2: Cleansing the skin.
A couple of minutes after shaving the area you can move on to cleansing with IPA. This will eliminate any oily residue and the skin will be ready for the application. 

STEP 3: Light layers
Now you can move on to layering the color in light passes. Color matching before starting is crucial in order to find the shade (or shade mix) that will be right for the skin tone. Don't be tempted to cover the whole tattoo immediately, as this will lead to hot spots and visible product accumulation. Proceed in light passes and keep the airbrush at the right distance. You will see the tattoo fade more and more with each pass, and by working this way you will allow each layer to dry before moving to the next one. As colors oxidize once applied and usually darken, this will give you a better sense of the final result. As I was saying, color correcting is almost always redundant with the products I have listed above. 

STEP 4: Setting Powder
Once you have layered enough passes you can move on to setting the area with HD powder or any fine powder. This will eliminate any residual wetness or stickiness. I advise using a flesh tone powder rather than a white or clear one, as these will leave behind a whitish cast. You can apply the powder by brush and later remove any excess with a setting spray or even water.  

STEP 5:Spattering (Optional)
Even if the airbrushed coverage doesn't add texture to the skin, its blocking power could create a very uniform effect that might look a little artificial also depending on the color scheme of the skin we are covering. In order to break up this seamlessness a to achieve a more natural result, we can break up the tonality by spattering darker foundation shades (or even blush shades if alcohol based). In order to spatter with your airbrush you simply have to remove the needle and nozzle cap and lower the air pressure to the minimum, then flick the airbrush lever. Of course you will have to be extra careful not to touch the skin with the exposed needle.

CLEANING YOUR TOOLS AND REMOVING THE MAKEUP
 When working with alcohol based products or with Dinair's Tatoo Cover it is crucial that you clean the airbrush immediately after the application. Failure to do so will lead to a very long, in-depth cleaning of all the pieces later on, because these colors create a sort of stubborn film in the deepest recesses of the airbrush. Removing the makeup from the skin on the other hand is quite simple if you use IPA or lacking that a very oily makeup remover.

"BEAUTY" CAMOUFLAGE OR SPECIAL EFFECTS?
For best results it is important to keep in mind that covering tattoos for "beauty" purposes is rather a camouflage work, where the primary goal is to prevent the eyes from focusing on what would otherwise be an obvious feature. If your goal is an absolutely perfect coverage that may recreate the exact color scheme of the rest of the skin unto the smallest details, you most likely will not use the technique described above, but rather a a multiple layer spattering of sheer alcohol base colors. This spattering technique is used in Special Effects, and it is not the object of this tutorial.


Wednesday, May 15, 2019

Airbrush Makeup Kit Review: Mistair Onyx Airbrush Makeup Kit with Video Tutorial



Bristish airbrush makeup brand Mistair was the very first brand I reviewed on these pages when I started publishing this website. I had met the Mistair team at that year's edition of Cosmoprof in Italy, and as they were the only brand dealing in airbrush makeup at that show I spent quite some time getting to know their products and lines. 
Today Mistair has a more streamlined yet still extensive product line that includes 14 foundation shades, 8 colors for blush and and highlighters respectively, 7 for eyebrows, and 8 adjuster and corrector shades. There are also a water based and an alcohol based line for body painting, and a very interesting product to create effects on hair called Hairlites. 

The Mistair Formula
Mistair Airbrush Makeup
All the beauty makeup colors are silicone based. The formula, which I think has been updated since I first used it, is comparable to Temptu's S/B line, but it's lighter in texture and quicker to dry. The foundation has a very natural finish and feels super light on the skin, with buildable coverage that starts sheer and intensifies to full with a few passes. The blush colors are delicately pigmented but can be built up to achieve more intensity as well. The opalescent highlighter colors offer beautiful shades, some of which are duo chrome such as the lovely Cornsilk, pearly white with pink overtones. As with any airbrush beauty product, all the colors can be used for all purposes, and the faster drying time makes them suitable and easy to use on the eyelids to create fast and natural eye shadows. As I didn't have the eyebrow color kit, I was able to fill the eyebrows well with the darkest foundation shade, and the result was very natural and durable, as you can see in the enclosed video tutorial.




The Onyx Kit
MIstair Onyx Airbrush Kit
The airbrush kit offering from Mistair is currently limited to three models. Starting at 159 British Pounds, The Onyx Airbrush Makeup Starter Kit is the least expensive of the three, and is the entry level option. It features a standard compressor with an adjustable airflow, a rubber tube suitable for "plug-in" connectors and a Continuous Flow airbrush, incorrectly described as "single action" on the website. For those who still struggle with the terminology, Continuous Flow means that the air flows out of the airbrush unobstructed as soon as the compressor is turned on, and that you use the lever to regulate the amount of color your are dispensing. This is a mode chosen by most beauty companies and it is perfectly effective and efficient for beauty makeup. The compressor is also mistakenly credited with a maximum working pressure of just 15 PSI, but I have personally tested it with a pressure gauge and have seen that it reaches 20 PSI comfortably, which is a plus. It still isn't particularly powerful and might struggle with thicker formulas, but it won't have any problems with the Mistair products, for which it was intended.

100% Airbrushed with Mistair
There are several combinations to choose from as far as the makeup bundled with the kit is concerned. The Onyx Starter Kit comes with a custom made packet of colors including four foundation shades (selectable from the fair, medium or deep groups), and one matching blush, highlighter and eyebrow color.  Of course the more colors you get the more options for fun and practice you will have, and the more expensive De Luxe version of the Onyx kit offers more shades, with the same equipment.  Like many brands, Mistair bundles its colors in very convenient starter kits, and in this brand's case they are very reasonably priced, so it will be possible to add on to your kit later without hurting the wallet too much. The starter kits packaging has been updated in recent years, and everything looks very slick. Unfortunately they still use the same bottles for their 7.5 ml packs. These infernal little bottles seem to let in air somehow, and after a while you will notice that the aqueous part of the colors decreases even if you don't use them. I suggest tightening the caps of each bottle as soon as you receive them, you will notice that you can twist the caps at least an extra half a turn, which hopefully will slow down the evaporation. Also very annoying are the stickers at the bottom of each bottle, which will come off even before you take them out of the package, making the color identification very confusing. I advise you to glue them on with a strong glue as soon as you receive them. On a much happier packaging note, Mistair has created a beautiful case for the Onyx with custom molded foam inserts, which are detachable. The case is very sleek and once again reasonably priced. I would definitely recommend it for the sleekest possible look of your airbrush kit. 


Mistair Ingredients:

Purified Water, Cyclotetrasiloxane (and) Cyclopentasiloxane, Glycerin, Polysobutene, Cetyl Dimethicone, Copoyol, Sodium Chloride, C12-15, Alkyl Bensoate, VP/VA Copolymer, Methyl Paraben, Disodium EDTA, Propyl Paraben, +/- Acrylates Copolymer. May contain: Titanium Dioxide (and) Methicone, Yellow Iron oxide, Red Iron Oxide, Black Iron Oxide, Carbon black, CL 77891, CL 45410, CL 77007, CL 77288




Tuesday, May 7, 2019

Airbrush Makeup primer How To and Review: silicone free vs traditional and airbrushable primer


What is the best primer for airbrush makeup? Where can I buy a silicone free primer? Do I even need a primer with airbrush makeup? These are some of the most common questions I get in my classes and online. The subject is vast, the answer to the questions needn't be. Let's do this!

Prepping the skin for airbrush makeup is as necessary as it is with your traditional beauty routine. The general rule is simply to avoid oil based formulas, which would by nature repel or destabilize any liquid that is layered upon them, and use as little product as possible.  If your skin is young, supple and blemish free, a simple light moisturizer used a few minutes before application will do. For any other skin condition (mature, oily, dry and so on), the general rule is to find the right balance between your skin care routine and the finish and consistency of the airbrush product you are going to use. If you came to this post thinking that airbrush makeup is one and the same for all brands, you should know that each product varies according to composition and manufacturer, just like traditional makeup does.

Airbrushable primers
Many brands of airbrush makeup produce their own ready to airbrush primers.These are generally very light formulas designed to moisturize the skin with the best compatibility for the product that will follow. They are mostly water based, such as Tickled Pink or Luminess, or might contain a light amount of dymethicone, such as Belloccio. If you have normal skin and live in a dry climate you may benefit from these formulas and their lightness, however some people might find them a little too thin, and might prefer a more comforting finish.  Temptu Brilliant Glow is a new airbrushable primer which is silicone based and has a much thicker consistency than other products. As the name implies, it adds a very subtle luminosity to the skin, and was created to mitigate the matte finish of Temptu's Perfect Canvas foundation. Because of its density, you will need an airbrush and compressor of the same power as Temptu's, however you can still apply this with a brush or sponge if you have a less powerful machine (such as the ones intended for water based makeup only).

Silicone Free primers
What if you want to avoid silicone in your skin care altogether? While silicone is inert and does not cause allergies, some people are sensitive to its prolonged use, meaning they show signs of intolerance such as blemishes and irritation. In these cases, silicone free alternatives will be the only options. While less common, silicone free primers do exist. Smashbox makes Primer Water, a water based product that can be used for both prepping the skin and as a makeup finishing spray, with a super light consistency. Milk Makeup produces the cult favorite Hydro Grip primer, with a more comforting gel like consistency and a more luminous finish, and mostly natural ingredients. If you wish to stay on the natural path, Nurturing Force produces its famous Blot Out Offensive and Twinkle Not Wrinkle primers, which we reviewed extensively in this post.  If you are in Europe, two products really stand out. For oily or combination skin, Ten Image Professional Matt Primer provides a super long lasting matte finish. You can use it on your T zone and even very sparingly on the eyelids to mattify the eyelid and prevent any cracking of your airbrushed eyeshadow. Bronx Colors Cosmetics Studio Line Magic Primer has a light, creamy texture, is very moisturizing and provides a lasting luminous finish that will add a very healthy glow to more opaque foundation lines.


Traditional primers
Let's say that my preferred airbrush makeup is water based. Would the presence of silicone in a primer really affect the durability and finish of water based airbrush makeup? Generally speaking, not really. It really depends on the concentration of silicone and other plasticizers in the formula. Personally, I would stay away from super slick formulas such as Urban Decay's or Benefit, but a the presence of common silicones such as dymethicone or cyclopentasiloxane in a primer does not affect the finish or durability, so much so that even the skin care sold by Dinair to be used with their products contains them. British airbrush makeup brand AirBase produces a perfect cross over between the two worlds: First Base Perfecting Primer is a Swiss formula with hydrating platinum technology that is slick at first but absorbs quickly to a soft, matte finish that is perfect both for their silicone formula and for any traditional makeup. Temptu's classic S/B Primer is a rich, super smooth formula that leaves the skin beautifully soft and mattified, and has the gorgeous light fragrance of its S/B line. It's also reasonably priced, which makes it the preferred choice of many. For the eyelids, regardless of the composition of the airbrushed eyeshadow, Make Up Forever Step 1 Skin Equalizer Mattifying is a perfect choice, just use it very sparingly and your eyeshadow will not crack even on textured, very oily eyelids.


Special thanks for the advice and information on some of these products to my amazing friends Regina Azizova @reginainneverland and Krysteane Duarte @Iheartairbrush