Thursday, April 6, 2017

The truth about airbrush makeup: exposing false myths, lies and misconceptions (for pros and newbies).

Let's talk about all the misconceptions, false myths and flat out lies surrounding airbrush makeup. We just updated what we can proudly call the most comprehensive list of airbrush makeup related links in the world. Compiling it has required a lot of love, research and dedication, so allow me to indulge in a bit of a rant dictated by the very same love and dedication, hoping that it will be useful to both those who are approaching the technique for the first time, and those who have been using it for a while but have fallen pray to misinformation nonetheless.

There are mainly two types of false myths surrounding any discipline: those perpetrated innocently by people who still have to learn about it, and those spread more or less maliciously by some who practice the medium and have started pontificating and teaching others before gaining any real in-depth knowledge themselves. I have been using airbrush makeup -and only airbrush makeup- since 2011. In the last six short years I have traveled far and wide and met as many of the originators, makers and producers as I could find, often training with them, other times simply interviewing them. I have researched all the brands available and tried to acquire, test and demonstrate as many of their products as I could. It is an on going process, but the results are for every one to see in my videos, where the makeup is executed by myself and where no filters have been applied, and in the posts of this website, which were all written by me. So let's start debunking,

Myth number 1: Airbrush makeup is difficult to learn and execute, and is for professionals only.
FACT: It is no more difficult than using brushes. The idea that it's difficult comes from the fact that, unlike brushes, you probably haven't held one in your hand since you were a child. In fact once you have mastered a few basic techniques, you will realize that an airbrush is easier to use than a brush, in that it does the work of blending for you. All you have to do is learn to control it. Like Dina Ousley says, if you can hold a pen you can use an airbrush.

Myth number 2: Cleaning an airbrush is difficult and takes a very long time.
FACT: Once you get used to it, cleaning an airbrush takes no longer than cleaning a brush. In fact it can take less, because pigments wash off metal much faster than they do from bristles. The myth is born out of the fact that you cannot skip cleaning (at least minimally) an airbrush after each use, while people very often skip cleaning a brush. By the way, if you are a makeup artist who skips cleaning brushes, you should propbably rethink your profession.

Myth number 3: You cannot, under any circumstance airbrush around the eyes (to conceal under eye circles).
FACT: If you don't know how to do it, I agree that you should not. The fact is, with the right amount of pressure and the right amount of care you totally can and probably should. Don't believe me? Watch any of my videos, I demonstrate it all the time and all my models are perfectly fine with it. So why should you do it? Because airbrush makeup products allow for a finer application, if applied correctly they do not cake on the skin, and once applied they generally do not move and settle in fine lines.

Myth number 4: Airbrush makeup is only for contour and base anyway.
FACT: That is utterly ridiculous. In fact it allows you to create the most amazing eyeshadow looks in the shortest amount of time imaginable. Once again it's about a little practice and product knowledge, the necessary amount of which varies for each person. I have had many students realize perfect eyeshadows on their second day of class, which makes me very proud as a teacher and a bit jealous as an artist, as I wasn't that fast when I started.

Myth number 5: You must NEVER/ALWAYS use a circular motion when airbrushing.
FACT: As long as you keep your airbrush moving you may use whatever movement is suitable for the area you are layering colors on. A circular motion is only wrong if you keep circling in exactly the same spot, but as soon as you move the airbrush all over the area it is in fact a very efficient way to obtain a uniform coverage. This is a myth initiated by airbrush painters who started teaching makeup expecting to apply the same exact rules they used for canvas to a face, and it has somehow stuck with some pernicious youtubers who took their recommendations too literally. In all of our videos we use circular motions, linear motions, "dagger stroke" like motions and whatever else is useful. Judge for yourself. 

Myth number 6:Real professionals never use "single action" aribrushes. 
FACT: "Single action" is a misused term that in beauty makeup indicates "continuous airflow" airbrushes. Belittled by some airbrush painters who teach makeup, these airbrushes are in fact more practical and easier to use, and that's why the beauty industry has embraced them. Actual "single action" airbrushes are only used in painting and in special effects, and no beauty brand distributes them (see this post for more on the subject). 

Myth number 7: You can NEVER do "this" or "that" with an airbrush makeup.
FACT: Whoever says that is either ill informed or knowingly lying. There are of course several things you may prefer to achieve in other ways, but if you say airbrushing can't do something, chances are you're just not doing it right...

Thank you for reading so far. I hope this didn't come across as too direct or heaven forbid contemptuos, once again at the end of the day it's all out of love for this amazing technique.

Daniel Pacini,

Wednesday, December 21, 2016

Easy and Fast Airbrush Makeup Eyeshadow and Flawless Skin with Dinair -Video Tutorial

100% Dinair Airbrush Makeup
As the year draws to a close, so does our series of posts and reviews on Dinair, the first creators of beauty airbrush makeup and one of the most dynamic and prolific brands in the market today.
To mark the occasion we chose a look that is a celebration of color, and while this doesn't have much to do with the Holidays, it certainly showcases Dinair's primary achievement: an incredible range of products that allow both professional and consumers to easily create stunning makeup looks. 

Dinair Airbrush Eyeshadow
For this look we have used a combination of several different Dinair lines. We used the classic Glamour line for highlights on the eyes and on the face, and also for blush, contouring and eyebrows.  Our eyeshadow whas achieved by layering colors from the Glamour line (Vanilla, Mauve, Cutie Pie) with a touch of Shimmer (Gold) and finally the amazingly pigmented, ultra resistant Colair Opalescent line (Blood Orange), which was also used a a final touch of strobing highlight (Cashmere).

Although we edited some repetitious actions out, our video shows the colors as they are being applied in real time and with no "filters", whatever that might have come to mean today. We hope that the images will show how easy airbrush makeup really is once you have mastered a few basic techniques, and how rewarding the results. 

100% Dinair Airbrush Makeup
Of course as we were writing the reviews in this series, that eventually stretched into almost two months, new products saw the light at Dinair's headquarters in LA. We have already ordered a few and are anxiously waiting for our New York liason to carry them across the ocean for us, and as always we are excited to review and demonstrate them in the near future. 

Thank you Dinair, the adventure continues...

100% Dinair Airbrush Makeup
The look in the video tutorial and in these images was inspired by a makeup created by Italian makeup artist Simona Nappi. You can view the original video here.

Wednesday, November 30, 2016

Concealing Vitiligo, Hyper Pigmentation, Discoloration and Tattoos with Colair Xtreme Airbrush Makeup

I'm going to go out on a limb for this post, as I almost never do, and state that Dinair's Colair Xtreme is the most underrrated revolutionary product to come out of the beauty industry in recent years
Colair Xtreme is an extremely highly pigmented foundation line created to block out and conceal anything from tattoos to discoloration of hyper pigmentation on the body and on the face. 
The product applies very quickly, and its coverage power is so high that you don't need to color correct to even out the area before application. This allows you to save considerable time and money, but if that wasn't enough, you also get another amazing advantage: durability. Xtreme is extraordinarily resistant to rubbing, and totally water proof. As a result, the coverage will last pretty much intact until you take it off. The formula is water based, and can be mixed with or topped by any other Dinair product.

Using Colair Xtreme in beauty or corrective makeup is very easy, and good results can be achieved by anyone. Because of its high blocking power, the final effect will tend to look very uniform, something which may not be always ideal if you are striving for the most natural look, but keep in mind that you can use it on the affected area only and then top it with any other Dinair foundation. I would also avoid using this product over symptoms of an active skin condition such as flaring acne or flaking psoriasis. In theses cases you may want to consider other Dinair Lines more suitable for these purposes, such as Camouflage/Paramedical or even the more basic Glamour line. However if you are looking for something that will block out a situation such as a birth mark or a tattoo, Xtreme will be the most effective choice, and a professional makeup artist will know how to break up the seamless finish created by this product with the necessary contouring and highlights, or even by recreating the original skin intrinsic coloring with translucent paints.

Which brings us to the world of Special Effects. If you are a professional makeup artist, you may have heard of PAX Paint, the mixture of Pros Aide glue and acrylic paint that is used in special effects and movies to achieve the most resistant coverage. Because of its very nature, PAX is not the healthiest choice for prolonged use and it is certainly a huge pain to clean from the airbrush afterward. Xtreme is a very viable cosmetic alternative to PAX that is much safer to use and much easier to remove from your tools using Dinair's standard Airbrush Cleaner. As we said before this product can be mixed with or topped by any other beauty product. In special effects it will allow you to lay the base color on prosthetics incredibly fast, and won't budge when painted over with any other makeup, including alcohol based colors. 

I really hope that both the beauty and the SFX world will realize soon the incredible potential that this amazing formula represents, and that the line will be expanded from the current 14 colors to match the full range of foundations available from Dinair. 

Tuesday, November 22, 2016

Airbrushing hair with Dinair Hair Colair! Review and Video Tutorial

Last week we wrote an easy guide to the many products available in the extraordinary Dinair catalogue. This week I'd like to focus on a couple of lesser known gems available from this catalogue, and I will start with the most unusual one, and one of the most interesting for all the pros out there: airbrush makeup for hair!

There are many occasions when we'd like to be able to alter our own or someone else's hair quickly and temporarily. We may want to cover roots that are starting to show, put in temporary highlights for a special occasion, conceal thin patches or achieve a fuller mane look, or fix another temporary dye that may have started to fade. Dinair has come up with two lines of products that allow us to triumph in any of the above listed circumstances. 

Dinair Hair Colair Highlights is a range of twelve shades matching pretty much any hair color, whether directly out of the bottle or after a little mixing with a complementary shade. These colors have a shimmering consistency that allows them to cover darker tones (such as roots) with lighter ones, and the possibilities they offer are practically endless. Even the blackest hair can be streaked effectively with these colors, and it is incredibly easy, as we show in our video. Simply apply on clean hair, allow a couple of minutes to dry completely, then style as desired. Combing or brushing will not remove the color, it will only make it look more natural: thanks to a small percentage of cosmetic alcohol present in the formula of these colors, the application will last undisturbed until the hair is washed. 
The short video tutorial included in this post shows how the products were used fix the hair of one of our model whose hair was showing dark roots and a lingering bluish hue from a previous salon applied temporary dye. While the shimmer of the pigment might be evident right after the product is sprayed, it soon appears perfectly natural as soon as it is dry, and the overall result is amazing. The video also shows another application on a more mature model who had a lot of creative streaking in her hair that we muted successfully with the shade Chestnut. 

Dinair Hair Colair Shadows has a further seven shades that are totally matte, and that can be used for an even subtle, totally natural coverage of regrowth or thin spots. It can be applied directly to the scalp as well as the hair, and it alcohol components will guarantee it stays put until shampooed. This line is also ideal for man grooming to conceal white hair and to fill in and even out a beard. 

Dinair has a further line of Vivid colors to be used for semi permanent, amazing effects on the hair, and we will review that in the near future. 

Before and After Dinair Airbrush Makeup on Hair!

Wednesday, November 16, 2016

What kind of airbrush makeup? An unbiased guide to Dinair products.

100% Dinair Airbrushed Eyeshadow
Dinair was the first brand in the world to make airbrush makeup commercially available to both professional makeup artists and consumers alike. Founded by Dina Ousley and partner George Lampman in 1981, this family run company is stronger than ever and remains the most dynamic brand in the airbrush makeup field today, and with so many products and innovations coming through at a fast pace we thought we would lay out an easy guide to the brand for those who approach it for the first time.  
TIPS: Can't find a specific product in a section of Dinair's website? Try using their search button in the top right corner of each page! We will only be describing products in this article. If you are looking for equipment information please read our Kit Review.

Products Composition and Available Sizes

All of Dinair products are water based. Some lines (Paramedical, Fantasy, Hair Colair) have a small percentage of high grade cosmetic alcohol to render them extra resistant to water and rubbing. This makes the products very healthy and extremely safe for any skin type, with no known allergic reaction in the 35 year history of the product existence.
All the colors come in four sizes: tester (.12 oz), small (.25 oz), medium (.50 oz) and large (1.15 oz).  Of course as the size increases the price becomes more convenient, however even the very small tester size can yield many uses, and certainly enough to figure out if you like the color or product before committing to a larger investment: a .12 oz small bottles contains 50 drops approximately, enough for 7 foundation or 14 eyeshadow applications on a conservative estimate. The testers are also super handy to carry with you when you travel.
For quick reference and a guide to each color's undertones please download the free pdf of the latest Dinair Color Chart.

The Foundation Lines

Dinair has four foundation lines available in 20 equivalent shades:
-Dinair Glamour is the first line in the brand's history and it is still a strong customer favorite. It has the most natural and imperceptible finish while retaining great coverage, very good water and rub resistance. It is perfect for those wishing to achieve a totally natural, undetectable makeup, and it also ideal for men grooming. TIP: The matte finish can be easily be balanced if necessary by airbrushing a natural glow such as Dinair's Moist & Dewy or refined Jojoba Oil on top of the makeup.
-Colair Radiance has a satin/matte finish and a softer, more comfortable finish that make the final result very similar to what you would get using a silicone based products. It is less undetectable than Glamour but still very natural, and with twice the pigment content it offers superior coverage and greater resistance to rub and water. It has a very subtle intrinsic luminosity that makes it ideal for everybody and very suitable for more mature skin.
-Colair Soft Glow as the name suggests has a very subtle glow factor intended to blur imperfections optically. It is closer in texture to Glamour with a powdery matte finish that makes it ideal for normal oily skin, and a favorite for bridal makeup.
-Dinair Paramedical (Camouflage) is a water and high grade cosmetic alcohol based formula that allows for greater coverage and it rub resistant and water proof. It is especially indicated for correcting problematic skin conditions while still allowing the pores to breathe (i.e it's non-comedogenic). It can be used as a correcting and priming base on which to layer the other lines of foundation.

Tattoo /Serious Skin Imperfections Cover

-Colair Extreme is a very powerful product that can be used to cover tattoos and very evident skin conditions such as birth marks, vitiligo, strong rosacea and such. It has total blocking power and does not require color correcting, and it's totally water proof and rub resistant, with a long lasting finish under almost any circumstance. TIPS: Because of its extreme pigment content the finish tends to look very uniform, however this be softened by using Extreme under or even mixed with any other Dinair foundation line. Colair Extreme has also enormous potential in the special effects field, where it represents a valid cosmetic alternative to Pax paint, allowing artists to paint base tones on prosthetics extremely fast and with excellent results.

Eyeshadows, Eyeliner, Blush and Lip colors

With airbrush makeup any color can be used for any desired purpose. The difference is not in the formulation, but in the concentration and in the style of application. For example a shade of pink can easily be used as eyeshadow, blush, or even as a lip stain. Dinair's website usefully points out what colors maybe ideal for what use, and you should visit each section to make sure you see all the available shades. Having said that all colors are divided in three main groups according to their finish:
-Dinair Glamour: this is a group of  matte colors that are very easy to blend yet very pigmented. TIP: To ensure a durable, crease free application it is best to moisturize the eye lid and then to remove any excess oils with a mattifying lotion or even with Dinair Airbrush Cleaner (this may sound funny but given its organic, non toxic formula the cleaner lends itself beautifully for this purpose). 
-Dinair Shimmer: a further 24 beautiful shimmering shades. TIP: lid prep applies as described above. Some of the lighter shades have lots of pigment and shimmering particles, so remember to shake well before applying and you may need to rinse the airbrush with some water and /or cleaner after using them before proceeding to the next colors.
-Colair Opalescent: an ever growing group of 27 opalescent shades which are amazingly pigmented, water proof and rub resistant, yet water based. TIP: in spite of their high pigmentation, these colors can be layered to obtain the most subtle gradients, with truly amazing results. 
-Colair Matte: this is the latest addition to the Dinair range and the first six colors have just been released. They promise to be as pigmented and resistant as their opalescent counterparts, but with a matte finish.
-Colair Eyebrows: while makeup for eyebrows has always been achievable with the shades in the Glamour range, this new addition has six specific shades with the improved pigmentation, durability and resistance you have come to expect from the Colair range.

Effects and Fantasy Makeup

-Dinair Fantasy is a line of 13 beautiful vivid colors in a water and cosmetic grade alcohol base for improved resistance. TIP: These shades are amazing and can be used safely as eyeshadows as well. They can be mixed with any other Dinair color.
-Colair Electric: seven ultra bright shades that are water based with superior water and rub resistance. They can be used for fantasy makeup or as eyeshadows by themselves or mixed with any other Dinair Color.

Airbrushing Hair

-Hair Colair Highlights: this is a range of colors that can be used to cover roots or to create beautiful highlights on any original hair color: their particular pigmentation means that they are visible even on very dark hair, allowing for a world of possibilities. The application will last until the hair is washed.
-Hair Colair Shadows: these seven shades have a more natural matte finish that allows for the most natural root cover. They can also be used to fill in sparse scalp areas (alopecia) or to fill in beard spots in the most natural way. 
-Vivid Hair Colors: eight amazing shades of semi permanent hair colors for stunning effects lasting up until 15 shampoos. TIP:Please read the instructions on the page carefully before using this product.

Essential Complements

-Dinair Airbrush Cleaner has been reformulated a couple of years ago and it has dramatically improved to become absolutely essential. It is organic, non toxic and removes all of Dinair makeup from the airbrush like a breeze, even the very persistent Colair Extreme. Used with the genius Cleaning Caps system it allows you to keep you airbrush pristine and looking like new after every use. It can also be used as a mattifying agent on the skin to remove excess oil. While formulated for Dinair, it removes other brands of water based makeup from any system just as easily. 
-Dinair Deep Clean Clog Remover is the ultimate airbrush problem solver. When normal cleaning fails to restore the airbrush to perfect functionality, this genius liquid will take care of the situation with very little effort. TIP: Please do read the instructions on the bottle carefully. As most clogs happen in the nozzle of the airbrush, you can simply fill a small cap of Deep Clean and soak the nozzle of your airbrush (whatever the model or brand) for fifteen minutes. Then clean the nozzle with a synthetic brush, soak again for a fifteen minutes, reassemble and rinse: problem gone!
-Dinair Makeup Sealer is a lesser known, less advertised product that in our opinion should not be missing from any kit. This airbrushable sealer will greatly improve the water resistance of the applied makeup, making more resilient to heavy water exposure. It is indispensable for special occasions.

Non Airbrushable Complements

-Dinair Under Eye Concealers have the same composition and are available in the same shades of the airbrush foundations but are in cream form. They are very useful when correcting a problematic under eye area or when a person is particularly sensitive to air being blown close to the open eyes. They create the perfect base for a light airbrush pass, and like any concealer they must be used very sparingly and set with a very light dusting of powder to avoid accumulation in fine lines.
-Dinair Pucker Up! is a series of matte and recently added metallic lip stains. Even though they are not an airbrushable product they are worth mentioning for their incredible durability and their amazing payoff. The color "Vixen" may well be that ultimate true red we had been looking for through every brand, and it is our favorite lip color ever.




Thursday, November 10, 2016

Airbrush Makeup Hall of Fame: Robbie Miller

Robbie Miller
Robbie Miller is Head of Global Education at Dinair, the first legendary brand of airbrush makeup for the beauty industry created by Dina Ousley and George Lampman in 1981. Robbie's carrier in airbrushing is the stuff of dreams, in less than two years his passion and dedication allowed him to achieve amazing creative and professional results. While continuing in his role as instructor, Robbie actively collaborated on the creation of the first line of  airbrushable semi permanent hair colors called Dinair Vivid Hair, as well as securing a high profile collaboration for Dinair with TLC television network. It was a pleasure to sit down with him at Dinair's North Hollywood headquarters and ask him about his inspiring story.

Let's start with something about your background...
I grew up poor in West Virginia, in a little town of just three hundred people called Robson in the Appalachian Mountains,  then I moved to Virginia Beach and I went to Paul Mitchell school there, and that's where I was introduced to Dinair, through a workshop.

Model Zuzu wearing 100% Dinair makeup by Robbie Miller
Paul Mitchell is primarily a hairdressing school. How did you decide to focus on makeup?
I love hair but I really love makeup. The school's curriculum doesn't touch a lot on makeup so I was scared of it, but  then they brought this speaker in, her name was Jane and she was a representative of Dinair, and I thought "oh my God, I CAN do this type of makeup", it felt so easy and natural in my hands. So I just kept practicing more and more. 

Was your family supportive of your career choice?
Initially my dad thought that there was no money to be made in the beauty industry... but I proved him wrong! Of course there wouldn't be much in a small town, but in Los Angeles there certainly is a lot of money to be made from this craft. Now my parents are very happy to see me travel with Dina and do everything that we do...

How did airbrushing become your main focus?
Right out of beauty school I started working at a hair salon in Vigina Beach and I got really good at airbrushing, and being the only makeup artist who had perfected this skill the salon had me doing about five weddings a week!

How did the big move to LA come about, and how did you become Dinair's Head of Global Education?
Makeup and Hair airbrushed by Robbie Miller
When I moved to Los Angeles a little over a year ago I had never been here before. I just had a dream and a salon job that I had lined up previously. But Salon work is not for everyone and it really wasn't for me. So about two weeks after I moved here Jane (the lady who had taught me in my first Dinair workshop) passed away, and I posted on her memorial Facebook Page asking for a ride to her memorial service as she had meant a lot to me. The person that responded to that was actually Dina. So in the car I told her my story with Jane and she said to me "I'm going to make you and educator". About two weeks after that I was working for Dinair full time.

What an amazing story! So when you started learning was there any aspect of the technique that you thought was a little harder to master?
Well it took me a while to realize that airbrushing wasn't just putting product in this wand and pulling the lever. The airbrush is a tool and it takes practice  and the proper education to become an airbrush makeup artist. Of course color theory and placement still apply, but there are techniques that you need to learn as gradient, distance and pressure create different looks. As I was starting out I probably didn't realize all that. The most difficult thing to learn was probably eyeshadow and getting that blended look. It's all about how close you are, how far back you're pushing your lever and the angle that you are holding the airbrush at...

Hunger Games looks by Robbie Miller with Dinair
What's the most common mistake that your students do when they are learning airbrushing?
Definitely overspraying. Basically airbrushing is like having Photoshop in your hand, so you have to be very sparse and precise when covering the problem areas and then  apply a light pass on the rest to blend everything in, as opposed to a flat all over application.

Is there an aspect to the teaching that you enjoy less?
A lot of makeup artists just want to go straight to creating a look, but there are a few technical aspects that need to be taught before that. They aren't the funnest to teach but they are necessities because without the foundation techniques you will not be able to create the rest.
Dinair is one of the most dynamic brands in the makeup industry, with an incredible growth in the output of new lines in the last couple of years alone. What is your own favourite line?
Airbrushed grooming by Robbie Miller
I really like our Soft Glow foundation line. It really does stay put, and gives a nice glowing effect. Even though it was meant for oily skin types any type can wear it, and that's my go to. Each line we have is best suitable for a different skin type, but if I had to choose one to start my kit I would definitely go with Soft Glow. Then of course there is our Glamour line, which allows for the most natural looking skin. It's also the best for men grooming because it's undetectable. From a consumer's perspective, the fact that the airbrush wand is a "cool tool" also makes it easier for man to use for covering skin imperfections without thinking about it as makeup.

In your opinion what is the greatest misconception about airbrush makeup today?
There are actually two: one held by consumers and one made by pros. The consumers think it's too difficult, and the professionals think that they can't create the same look with the airbrush as they do with their brushes. Of course we live to prove them wrong [laughs].

Although it's only been a about two years from when you started with Dinair you have already been part of a lot of remarkable experiences. Which ones stand out so far?
The TLC Say Yes to the Dress filming experience was very exciting. The host of the program Monte Durham is a friend of mine from the same home town, so I suggested that he include makeup in his the show. He said he had been thinking about it and asked us if we'd be interested in collaborating on Say Yes to the Prom, so after months of planning and training artists all around the Country we were able to participate. We did a four city tour (New York, Miami, LA and Dallas) giving prom makeovers to deserving your girls who are less economically advantaged but have great academics. They received gorgeous dresses, jewellery, hair and makeup and then they were part of a runaway show. We had 120 airbrush makeup artists, 30 for each location, and it was great for them to be part of such a huge production. The show focused on four principal girls, and each of them was assigned a makeup artist so Dina and I plus two of our star artists were part of this group. [The show aired in May, 2016. Press coverage included a spread on People Magazine]

Robbie, Dina, the Dinair Team and Monte Durham on Say Yes to the Prom!

What is working with Dina like?
Working with Dina on Mario Lopez
Dina is such a wonderful mentor. She's an Emmy award makeup artist who has been in the industry for fifty years, has a celebrity clientele and still works on film and TV, yet she is humble and so giving. Dinair is the result of her love for the industry.

I know that you are also an actor, so was coming to LA a way to put your great passions together?
Yes, I love anything in front or behind the camera. I studied at Amy Pollard's school for improv and took acting classes on the East Coast, I just love creating for the camera, whether it's hair, makeup or performing it's all part of the same big dream...

What is the next dream you would like to achieve?
Being here at Dinair and being able to inspire new generations of  makeup artists to believe in themselves and their dreams, or helping someone like a burn victim with a workshop on camouflage, that is so much more rewarding to me than doing makeup in a salon. I love inspiring people to be the best they can, and whatever their dreams are to take a leap and believe in themselves. Right now I am writing a book on my journey in the past few years, and that will hopefully be completed soon, so I am very excited about that. 

Do you have any advice for new airbrush makeup artists?
Keep learning, don't just do foundation and blush. Get specialized. I know that the more specialized you are the more attention you get whenever you are on set. If you are quick and efficient they will remember that. Just as it happened in this last show for TLC. They told us makeup had never been on time before. We were able to get finished early every time with forty minutes to spare.

Follow Robbie Miller on Instagram at: @airbrush_makeup_dude
Robbie and Team on shoot for Vogue Italia

Saturday, October 29, 2016

Tim Burton inspired Vampire Makeup with Nebula and Kryolan professional products

Airbrush Makeup with Nebula by Kryolan
Kryolan is one of the most famous brands of professional and theatrical makeup in the world. As Halloween approaches we were super excited to have another opportunity to try products from their catalogue to realize the Tim Burton inspired look you see in these photos and in the Video. My long time collaborator Angela had this long held dream or a vampire look that would include prosthetic cheek alterations in reminescent of Maleficent. The challenge was not an easy one, and now we're going to describe how we did it in a step by step tutorial, starting with the airbrushed beauty makeup and then revealing the process behind the proshtetics.

Step by step guide to our Vampire look:
The beauty makeup application can be recreated regardless of the prostethics. If you are curious about the prosthetic process you can find the relevant description at the end of this post.
Skin Prep: apply a light layer of Kryolan HD Micro Primer on the face, and then Kryolan Eye Shadow Primer on the eye area. Allow a couple of minutes so that these products can be absorbed. 

Foundation: mix 10 drops approx of Nebula Complexion Fir (the lightest shade in the Nebula foundation range) with as many drops of True White from the Nebula Vivid color group. You can mix the colors directly in the cup of your airbrush. Be sure to regulate the pressure of your compressor on the lowest usable setting, layering light passes until the desired consistency is achieved. For contouring you can use a mix with a darker foundation shade or a light gray achieved by mixing True White and True Black from the Nebula Vivid Range. As our prosthetic already cast a sufficient shadow we decided to enhance only the highlights by dabbing on a few drops of Liquid Brightness in Silver. As the Nebula base is totally waterproof we could apply this highlight without fear of compromising the foundation. 
Airbrushed with Nebula by Kryolan
Eyes: layering the red and black eyeshadow was super easy. Remember to keep the pressure as low as possible. Mix five drops of Nebula Iridescent in Luxurious Red and tre drops of Nebula Vivid in Fiery Red to obtain this beautiful red hue. After the main eyeshadow is applied blend Nebula Vivid in True Black on the mobile lid. This will enhance the contrast with the amazing Kryolan Contact Lenses n. 811. These lenses are perfect for a vampire look, and Kryolan's reputation guarantees their quality against cheaper but less safe alternatives available on line.
Lips: our Kryolan 18 Color Lip Palette already contained LC404, which the perfect shade of lipstick for this look. Angela added depth to the lips design by adding two different types of artificial blood by Kryoan, Transparent Blood and HD Blood.

A question of cheekbones...
The cheekbones are one of the most difficult features to alter with a partial prosthetic. The edges of the application are especially difficult to hide in such a mobile and exposed area of the face. We proceeded as follows.

Prosthetic Preparation:
Luckily Angela had a full cast of her head that I could use to sculpt the new cheekbones with sulfur free Chavant clay of medium consistency. I heated up the clay in the microwave for a few seconds to render it more pliable before sculpting the application on the cast. Once done I carefully detached the clay and I laid it on a tablet where I reconstructed the edges and blended them further. I used some tongue depressors to build sides to the tablet and sprayed the positives with Kryolan Mold Release Spray, then I poured silicone molding material and waited for it to set. Once the silicone mold was ready i washed and dried it to get rid of any residue, then sprayed it again with Mold Release, and once this was dry I spread a thin layer of Glatzan. This bald cap plastic material is Kryolan's own alternative to Baldiez, and it is useful for encapsulating the prosthetic creating a thinner edge that will be easier to melt on the face using acetone.
Airbrushed Makeup with Nebula by Kryolan
Foam Gel: in order to create our prosthetic applications we used Kryolan Gel Foam, a foam gelatin that comes in blocks that are ready to be cut up and melted. I but half a block in a small see through plastic bowl, then I heated it up in 15 seconds increments in the microwave oven. It is crucial to do this carefully and to stop after each increment to check the status of the gelatin. As soon as it starts to raise you have to remove it from the oven and pour it in the mold, using a spatula to level it and remove the excess. The melting and cooling process is very fast, so you will have to work quickly, and you'll have to make sure that the gelatin doesn't reach boiling point or it will be unusable. After pouring it will take 45 minutes or less for it to be completely cured. Once dry I applied another thin layer of Glatzan (see above) and then waited for another hour for this to be ready. A light dusting with clear powder will help to keep the edges from folding over themselves and sticking together.

Prosthetic Application: first of all I applied Pro Shield Foam primer to Angela's face in order to protect her skin from all that was to follow. Then I spread a thin layer of Kryolan Special Adhesive B (equivalent to the famous Pros Aide glue) on the area of the face that was going to be covered, and I applied a thin layer on the back of the prosthetics as well. I waited until the glue became clear and then I applied the cheekbones. After the application I melted the edges away using a q tips and acetone, which worked well on Glatzan. In some spots a little more Special Adhesive B was necessary to further fill remaining discrepancies. After a light dusting with clear powder I proceeded to airbrushing the base coat of the makeup.