Monday, May 7, 2018

Elementwo Airbrush Makeup Kit Review and Video Tutorial



Elementwo is an international airbrush makeup brand that made its debut in 2012, and has kept a relatively low (but very stylish) profile catering mostly to professionals in the several countries where it is distributed. The brand was created in Taiwan and immediately distributed in the United States. Since then it gained a remarkable following in eastern countries such as Kuwait, Bahrain and even Japan. I had a first meeting with the brand at the Makeup Show in New York in 2014, and I am very happy to be able to review it in these pages now. 
Please know that a Pro Program offering 20% discount on all purchases is available from Elementwo Website. Elementwo ships to Europe at reasonable rates directly from its website (Custom fees and limitations apply).

High Quality Instruments

elementwo airbrush makeup review tutorial
                  Elementwo Airbrush Makeup PRO System          
The first thing that stands out about this brand is the high quality of the tools comprised in the kit.
Elementwo has a very close relationship with  manufacturer Sparmax (also from Taiwan), which is the company that provides tools for most of today's popular brands of airbrush makeup. The reason of Sparmax's ubiquitous presence in the beauty industry is simple: they provide the best value for money around when it comes to tools for airbrush application. Elementwo offers two versions of its kit. The Perfect Skin Airbrush System features a one-setting compressor and a continuous airflow ("single action") airbrush. The PRO System, which is the one I received and that is featured in these images, features the same powerful compressor (up to 35 PSI output) with the addition of a pressure valve regulator right on the chassis of the compressor itself. The regulator has the same sensitivity of the hand held pressure valve typically found on quick-connect adapters, and will require a minimal practice to get used to the range it offers.  
The airbrush is the very reliable and sleek workhorse SP35, and is provided with a double action valve that is easily modifiable into a continuous airflow mode if  so desired. Both compressor options have a pre-disposition for a battery unit, which can be purchased for Elementwo's website and which can be extremely useful for location or on set work. The kit comes in a very sleek, elegant packaging that includes a strong, long air hose, a power unit, an airbrush holder and a nozzle wrench, and a concise printed page with operating instructions. 

Elementwo Makeup Lines

elementwo airbrush makeup review tutorialThe idea at the core of Elementwo, (and the reason behind its name, I suspect), was to offer the same exact lines of makeup in a water base option (Skin Harmony) and a silicone based alternative (Canvas Blend), in order to cater to everyone's preferences and resolve once and for all the eternal struggle between silicone and water. Today the Skin Harmony line seems to have been put on hold in favor of the silicone based Canvas Blend option, which is the product we received and the one you can see being used in the enclosed video. 
elementwo airbrush makeup review tutorial
         100% Elementwo Airbrush Makeup     
The range of makeup by Elementwo features 16 foundation shades, 10 blush colors, 3 bronzers and two highlighters. To complement these, an impressive range of 11 shimmer and 18 matte pigments have been added to be used for any option imaginable, from eyeshadows to body art. 
The Canvas Blend makeup is very fluid and the application feels very light, with a consistency that is very similar to that of water based products. When applying foundation, this allows for a very fine, imperceptible finish and a very natural overall effect, with the ability to cover imperfections well without having to color-correct first and without the risk of creating unsightly accumulations. You can see how well the coverage works when I am addressing my model's acne breakout in the enclosed video. The foundation shades have a mostly neutral undertone which adapts beautifully to most skin colors, with more pink or yellow options available as well. The blush and highlighter colors are very subtle and delicate, and again they create a very natural effect that allows them to be applied without fear on top of the foundation (as opposed to underneath, which I usually prefer). The bronzer  options are more pigmented, but still very natural looking when applied carefully.
                      100% Elementwo Airbrush Makeup                        
Finally the pigments offer endless creative possibilities, with an easy to blend,  sheer finish that can be built up to full intensity and brightness simply by layering light passes, as I am doing for the eyeshadow in the video. As with any silicone product, it is a good idea to prep the lid with a mattifying lotion, dry each pass thoroughly and set at the end with a fixing spray or with a light dusting of HD powder. Once set, the eyeshadow will be water proof and stay perfect until removed. 
Like most silicone based products, the Canvas Blend colors are long lasting and once fully dry they become virtually water proof. Because of their light texture they are able to set in place quickly and the tendency to gather in fine lines is very reduced, requiring very minimal or no setting at all even in delicate areas such as under the eyes. This allows for a very natural finish while retaining high coverage. All the product lines are also completely fragrance free. The colors from each group are available individually in 1.15 fl.oz. (30 ml.) bottles, but they can also be purchased in pre selected, generous Starter Kits of .34 fl. oz. (10 ml) which are very convenient and which will allow you to try most shades with a smaller investment. You can select several of these Starter Kits for an even more convenient price when you purchase your kit from the Elementwo website.

Elementwo Kit Complements

There are a couple more products that you can purchase directly from the website individually or as part of your kit. 
The H2O Infusion Moisturizer is a very light, clear liquid enriched with Hyaluronate Sodium and Aloe Extract that can be airbrushed before or (preferably) after your makeup application to add extra hydration and a very natural sheen to your foundation. The Flawless Finish HD Translucent Powder is a very fine fixing product that will set your makeup without altering its texture in any way. It is not absolutely necessary for foundation, as the makeup is pretty stable by itself, but it can provide you with added security and it will help a lot to maintain a matte finish on oily skin types trhoughout the day. Finally the Elementwo Airbrush Cleanser is the ideal solution to keep your airbrush in top shape. You will not need it at every color change, but it will be useful when switching from a dark to a light color, and of course at the end of each session.

Elementwo Ingrendients:

Purified water, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclopentasiloxane, methicone, isoparaffinic hydrocarbon, glycerin, polyisobutene, cetyl dimethicone copolyol, acrylates copolymer, isoparaffinic hydrocarbon, talc, VP/VA copolymer, methylparaben, disodium EDTA, propylparaben.
May Contain (+/-): Red 40 lake CI 16035, yellow 5 lake CI 19140, yellow iron oxide, CI 77492, mica CI 77019, black iron oxide CI 77499, red iron oxide CI 77491 titanium dioxide CI 77891

100% Elementwo Airbrush Makeup



Thursday, April 19, 2018

Summer Glow and Illuminators: Airbase Airbrush Makeup review update




100% Airbase Airbrush Makeup
I love Cosmoprof  as it brings makeup brands from all over the world right to my home town of Bologna, Italy. This year's edition saw our friends at Airbase Airbrush Makeup back for the second year in a row, and this time I had the great pleasure of demonstrating at their booth on the last day of the show. While I've known and loved Airbase for a while now, as I explained in our first review, working with the product for a full day in a very busy context such as a trade show of this magnitude really gave me a chance to get to appreciate the brand in depth. 
After over twenty full face demos in one day on as many different people, selected at random among the trade show's visitors, I have gained a deeper understanding of how the brand's products work. 

High Performance Equipment and Makeup
First of all, the excellent Airbase equipment (customized for Airbase by the leading Taiwanese manufacturer Sparmax) never let me down once, not even for a second, and I performed no special maintenance on the airbrush at all except for a good cleaning at the end of the day to prepare the kit for storage. The small compressor (see our original Kit Review) never faltered either despite the long day.
Secondly, I had a chance to appreciate just how well the very neutral foundations do match complexion to perfection. I rarely had to mix two colours together to achieve a perfect match, and this is remarkable considering there are just seven different shades in the range. 
Finally and most importantly every single person who I tried the product on left the booth happy and extremely enthusiastic about the look and feel of the product on the skin.

The new Illuminators
New Airbase Illuminators Swatches
The Airbase Foundation formula, which has a definite matte, almost velvety finish, can be easily adjusted and made more luminous by the addition of four beautiful new shades of highlighters. These are called Illuminators and you can get an idea of their tonality by clicking on the enclosed photos of the swatches I made. 
The illuminators add a gorgeous, subtle sheen and can be mixed with any of Airbase's foundations or blushes to make new colors. They can be sprayed on top of the foundation at the end of the job, under the base for a very subtle radiant effect, or they can be mixed directly with the foundation to add a healthy glow applied intrinsically. 

Airbase Aqua Colors
The new Aqua Colors
Airbase has further expanded its color offer by adding another eight colors to its Aqua range. While the first group was made up of primary colors with the addition of Gold, Silver and Bronze, the new shades include beautiful secondary colors such as Turquoise, Lilac, Pink and Plum. The formula is a water / silicone hybrid which is very rich in pigment. While it is marketed as a body paint line, its colors double perfectly as eye shadows, as you can see in our video here, just be careful to dry the product well after application for optimal performance. As the name implies, the formula is not waterproof, which is better in many cases such as children face painting. However it can easily be water proofed by using an alcohol base fixing spray, such as Ben Nye's, Kryolan's or Eulenspiegel's. 
We will post more about this formula soon, including a video that shows all the colors being applied in one single face paint.

Tuesday, April 17, 2018

Ultra Violet Makeup with 100% Dinair Airbrush Makeup, and AirStyle 4 months later review!




Ultra Violet: a tribute to Dinair's range of purples 

100% Dinair Airbrush Makeup
Dinair Airbrush Makeup has the most extensive choice of airbrushable colors on the market. As I was planning a look inspired by Ultra Violet, Pantone's choice for color of the year, it was only natural that I would turn to this fantastic brand and its amazing range of shades of purple. From the most subtle and understated, like Orchid Plum and Deep Purple in the Glamour and Shimmer lines, to the most vivid and deep, like Magenta and Villain in the Colair Electric and  Opalescent range, Dinair has you spoiled for choice. The great things about these different lines is of course that the formulas are all compatible, and you can mix any of them together in the airbrush cup or layer them on top of each other to create beautiful custom blends. Despite being water based, the colors are also extremely resistant to touch and water, especially in the Colair range where the shades are virtually indestructible. Doing this look gave me the perfect excuse to experiment a little more with these fantastic products. I intentionally aim to make the looks I film easy to execute even for those who have just started exploring the possibilities of airbrush makeup, and I really hope the video will inspire you to try your hand at this amazing art whether you are a personal user or a consummate professional. 

Dinair AirStyle four months later

100% Dinair Airbrush Makeup
To achieve this entire look I decided to use my Dinair AirStyle applicator once again. Not that I had to look for it. It hasn't left my counter since the moment I took it out of the box. After a little initial awkwardness I have gotten very used to its convenience. Being able to apply makeup with a full fledge airbrush but unencumbered by cables or hoses is incredibly addictive, and this little friend has won a big place in my heart, not having let me down once since the first time I used it. I didn't expect it to last use after use without clogging, but having used the very effective (and fast!) cleaning caps system together with Dinair Cleaner, I haven't run into any problems and have not had to take it apart or deep clean it at all so far (of course I have only ever used Dinair products with it, as per instructions). Yes, it's still a loudish puppy, and yes I am sure future version will be even better, but so far I am very happy with this gadget indeed. 


Dinair AirStyle Kit

*USEFUL AIRSTYLE TIP: If after cleaning it thoroughly you notice that the unit seems a bit "slower", or it looks like the spray is weaker, check the front needle and nozzle caps. These occasionally come a little lose with the vibration of the unit, and by simply tightening them you will see full spraying power restored in a flash. Happy AirStyling!





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Wednesday, February 28, 2018

What's new at Dinair in 2018 - Airbrush Makeup Review


Founded by Dina Ousley and partner George Lampman in 1981, Dinair was the first airbrush makeup brand to produce beauty makeup lines designed for both professionals and consumers. The company has remained fiercely independent through the years, and it's still a family business at heart that keeps growing along with the reputation of its product. Never happy to rest on its laurels, Dinair keeps renovating its offer and updating its formulas in order not only to remain current, but to produce innovation and inspire the rest of the industry.
Last year we gave you an extensive, unbiased guide to their vast offering, which you can read here. Let's see what has changed since then. If you wish to see all these new products in action, please check out this video we recently released where we use all of them. 




A new approach to concealing: Dinair Neutralizer

Concealing Rosacea with Dinair
While normal hyper pigmentation, redness and blemishes will be perfectly covered using just your preferred foundation line, Dinair has renewed its approach to concealing more serious imperfections.
Traditional color correctors such as light green for redness or peach for bluish/purple areas usually require a high level of skill while airbrushing: they must be used very sparingly or they may show under the foundation as greyish spots. To avoid this outcome, Dinair is now directing customers to conceal using just the foundation colors from their newly renamed Neutralizer line. Formerly known as Paramedical or Camouflage, the updated Neutralizer line is water based with a percentage of  cosmetic grade alcohol, and offers high coverage power and strong resistance to water and rubbing. This line is available in all the twenty shades that make up the other foundation lines, and while it can be used on its own, it is ideal in addressing just the trouble areas, and takes the guess work out of color correcting. Simply select the same color of your foundation, and neutralize the problem spots before applying your preferred preferred line (Glamour, Soft Glow or Radiance). The Neutralizer will conceal any shade of blemish underneath and even out your canvas for a perfect foundation application.


Strenghtening your finish: Foundation Extender

The biggest Dinair innovation this year as far as makeup is concerned is the new Foundation Extender line. This product can be added seamlessly to your preferred  foundation line to improve its wear, water and rub resistance, and comes in all the 20 shades that make up the foundations range. It works by adding just two drops every 6-8 drops of foundation directly in the airbrush cup, and then mixing them through back bubbling. The composition of the product is a lighter version of the Tattoo Cover (formerly Colair Extreme), the most powerful blocking product of all. It could be used on its own to block strong imperfections under the foundation, but the end result would probably be more obvious than what you would achieve by using the Neutralizer line instead (see above). I have tested this product and I have to say it does work remarkably well. I would reserve it for special occasions when prolonged wear is crucial, or when the climate is particularly threatening to the resistance of your makeup. Or you could use it (mixed with the remainder of your foundation) for those areas that are more prone to stress, such as the chin or the forehead if you have oily skin. In any case it's a great complement to have and it could be your foundation's best ally on many occasions.


Tattoo Cover

This product is the new version of the amazing Colair Extreme, offering total blocking power and the possibility to erase any tattoo or very visible skin tonal irregularity with just a few passes and no need for color correcting.  The formula is pretty much the same as the original, the only difference I could devise is that it flows better in the airbrush than before. Two shades (black and white) have been added as adjusters for the other 14 colors that mirror the most popular shades in the foundation lines. Thankfully the colors are now called by the same name used across the other lines, and no longer by number. The serial number remains printed under the name, an this is useful to determine the undertone (Warm tones are even numbers, cool tones are odd numbers and neutral tones end in 0 or 5).  The Tattoo Cover colors seem to have a less neutral slant, so for example if you get Olive Beige you might see that it looks more yellow than its counter part in any other line, This could be a chance variation on the batch that I received, however if you are considering getting your own shade in this line, you may want to buy the closest color with the opposite undertone as well in order to mix it and balance it out if necessary.

Dinair AirStyle and One Speed Compressor

Things never stand still at Dinair even as far as equipment is concerned.  A new One Speed compressor has been added to the line for the most inexpensive kit option. The next step up is now the Pro Basic compressor, which has variable airflow, and after that the Personal Pro, which is the one I would definitely recommend for its versatility and performance. The portable solution, battery powered compressor Dinair Go is no longer the only cable free option, and a new hand held device called AirStyle is now available. This unit is completely hose and cable free, and with a higher PSI output than the GO represents a very interesting option to give personal users complete mobility. Please read the in-depth review of the AirStyle kit in our previous article

We will be travelling to LA in may, and we are very excited to be touching base with our amazing friend at Dinair again. We can always look forward to this legendary brand to inspire and shake up the game for the whole airbrush makeup industry.
 
100% Dinair Airbrush Makeup, Unfiltered Skin


Wednesday, February 14, 2018

Dinair AirStyle Airbrush Makeup Kit Review and video tutorial

Dinair Airbrush Makeup: AirStyle Kit

Dinair AirStyle is the first all-in-one, hand-held rechargeable applicator to feature an actual airbrush.  The device debuted on the market at the end of 2017, and is now available on Dinair's webiste within a kit bundle or just by itself .

What is it?
Dinair AirStyle Airbrush
The AirStyle was conceived to allow Dinair users to apply makeup with total freedom, regardless of the location and independent form a power supply. As you can see from the images, it basically consists of a handle with an airbrush on top, and there is no air hose or power cord to stand in the way. The "handle", which houses the micro compressor, features an off/on button and a charging port at the bottom where you can plug in the charging cable, which features USB connectivity. According to the instructions the unit charges fully in about an hour, and a single charge provides over a half hour of continuous use. This means that if you remember to switch it off when you are not spraying (for example when you are loading colors) a single charge may last you up to five days for personal use. The airbrush on top is just 5'' (12 cm) long, and is a continuous airflow model with a classic screw-on nozzle wide enough for all of Dinair's colors and lines. The strength of the airflow is proportionately adequate, and while I have no way to measure it exactly I would estimate it at a good 10 PSI. The pressure output is not adjustable and remains constant throughout the battery life, and the unit simply stops working when the charge has run out. It will of course work while it is plugged in, so if  users miscalculate the time left on the charge all they will have to do is find an outlet to finish their application. The AirStyle is not a very quiet system. It produces a level of noise comparable to that of an average hair dryer. Not a major issue, but one to keep in mind if you wish to use it in the same room with someone who is sleeping.

Kit Contents
Dinair AirStyle Kit
The Airstyle Kit comes with the unit itself housed in a sleek white box with a molded velveteen tray inside, an elegant packaging solution reminiscent of Apple's devices. There is also a small clear pouch filled with goodies that are selectable from the options listed on the website page. You will get three foundation colors in your chosen color range and in your preferred line (Glamour, Soft Glow or Radiance are the options that Dinair offers based on their finish, please see this article for full explanation). You also get a blush, a highlighter and an eyebrow color, automatically selected to complement your choice of shade range, and of course you will be able to use these colors also as eye shadows. Also present is an eyebrow stencil set, a bottle of practice color for your exercises on paper (sheets are provided along with an operating instruction sheet), a sample of post-application moisturizer Moist and Dewy and one of cream concealer. Finally, a bottle of Dinair cleaner and a set of cleaning caps, with a bonus anti-spill cap. The small clear pouch housing these products is also the ideal size for your AirStyle. While it offers no shock protection, it is perfect for carrying the device and the few products you might need when going outside, which is what the kit is intended for in the first place.

Who it is for?
Dinair Airstyle in clear pouch
The Dinair Airstyle is intended explicitly and solely for Dinair product users. You will NOT be able to run products by other brands, at least not comfortably and without major clogs,  as the nozzle size and pressure output are designed exclusively to run with Dinair lines. This might sound strange to professionals who are used to thinking, as I do, that after all "an air source is an air source and an airbrush is an airbrush", but trust me, in this case the caveat does apply. A very good ally in using the product smoothly will be found in the Cleaning Cap system, which is included in the kit. The cleaning system works and works well, and it is crucial for optimal performance.

My experience and thoughts
I have been using the AirStyle system for a while now and I have to say it gets easier every time. Please view the video below to see it in action as I conceal prominent rosacea spots on a model. The ergonomics of the design may require a little getting used to if  you are used to traditional airbrushes, but the commodity of being unencumbered by cords and hoses makes me reach for it much more often than I expected for personal use.
On a technical level I find the idea of a a truly hand-held, cable and hose free compressor with a real, full-fledged airbrush nothing short of genius, and I highly commend George Lampman (Dinair's CEO and co-founder) for this remarkable innovation.
I think personal users will find the AirStyle to be a very interesting alternative to their table top system for all those occasions when mobility and speed are important. I do wish it came with a CX airbrush on top instead of the current one, because that is a superior quality airbrush and an easier one to maintain and deep clean. I also hope that future versions will feature charge indicator lights, a stand or base that would allow me to keep it on my desk upright, and a reduced noise output.
On a professional level I think the AirStyle has an enormous innovation potential.  With the addition of a few features such as a selectable pressure output and a quick-connect adapter (to allow you to connect any compatible airbrush), this  tool would represent a total game changer not only the airbrush makeup industry, where everyone would want one, but I suspect for airbrushing as a whole. I was fortunate enough to meet George Lampman, and I wouldn't be in the least surprised if he came up with exactly that product in the future. 




Thursday, December 21, 2017

DARK CIRCLES correction with Airbrush Makeup: How To Video and Temptu Review

100% Airbrush Makeup including dark circles correction
AIRBRUSH FOR DARK CIRCLES? MOST DEFINITELY
Correcting and concealing dark circles or under eye hyper pigmentation  is one of the most common yet hardest tasks when it comes to makeup. Why? The skin in the periocular area is thinner and often more mobile than anywhere else on the face, and subject to very fine to very pronounced creasing because of the muscles underneath.  In order to color correct the area with traditional makeup we need products with a high coverage power yet the lightest possible texture, because whatever we apply on this surface will inevitably end up enhancing the creases and lines that can very often be found there, whether it be due to aging or simply to natural constitution.

Enter airbrush makeup. First of all we have to dispel one of the most persistent false ideas about airbrushing: you CAN airbrush around the eyes, and it will NOT hurt, damage or irritate the eyes in any way, in fact it will bother the skin much less than a brush would. All you have to do is know how to do it. Once we have finally established that, let's see why we SHOULD airbrush the eye area. Because of the its complicated texture, the thicker the layers of product we apply, the more they will tend to move and set in the negative spaces thus making the texture more obvious. Airbrushing allows for the highest coverage with the lightest texture and thinnest layering imaginable, allowing for the best results. Moreover, the best products created for airbrushing don't need setting powder, set very quickly and remain in place without settling in fine lines for the longest time. Of course the end result in terms of effectiveness and durability will also depend on the unique characteristics of each individual, as factor such as age, firmness, oil production and so on will vary for everyone, but I can state with a certain confidence that if you try airbrush you may never want to go back to traditional. The following How To describes and illustrates the process used in the video tutorial enclosed in this article, as well as all the other tutorials we published. Please read the disclaimer at the bottom of the page before implementing any technique.



HOW TO AIRBRUSH THE EYE AREA
Preparation: Start with clean, hydrated skin. The moisturizer you use should be the lightest, least oily type that the individual will allow. Once the moisturizer has been thoroughly absorbed, you can judge whether a primer is necessary or not. If you are working on young, firm skin with little to no texture, a primer will be superfluous. Ultimately it depends on the product you use as well, as some (especially the silicone based ones) will act as a primer as well.

Application:When applying the makeup your client should start with closed, relaxed eyes. Give the person a chance to get used to the process and relax by spraying only air first, and describing the process. Your airbrush pressure should be set at the lowest PSI allowed by the type of product you are using. Test on paper first to make sure the nebulization is correct. Very often you will be able to correct the entire area without the person needing to open their eyes, which will be the most comfortable option. Very gently stretch the skin around the eyes to open creases and folds. You can do so by pulling lightly at the temple, the cheek under the eye or by "pinching" the bridge of the nose. Build the coverage using multiple passes and spraying as little as you can each time. Keep a suitable safe distance of at least 2 inches. Don't look to see the color you apply, rather observe the change in the skin and continue until you are satisfied. Angle the airbrush so you can spray under the bottom lashes and cover that area too. When the person opens the eyes, the skin closest to the eye rim might look uneven, as the whole texture can change. You can correct further by spraying light passes on the under eye area after asking the person to look up, so long as you are able to aim the air so that it doesn't hit the eye. You can also delicately place a soft plastic stencil directly below the bottom lashes to deflect any air at all from the eye if needed. Some people are more sensitive than others to air around their eyes, especially if they are wearing contact lenses. Make sure you test this before you start the actual makeup. Instruct the person to simply close their eyes if they feel their eyes water, and take a few seconds between passes so the person can relax. Have a q-tip ready should there be any tearing. Ask the person how they are doing all the time.

Problematic skin or sensitive person: If the person does feel uncomfortable keeping their eyes open while you are spraying, or if the small area under the bottom lashes still needs touching up, you can certainly go in with a velour pouf or with a small brush and fix the area. In the case of very mature skin, you can also use tiny amount of colorless HD powder to set the area further.

PRODUCT REVIEW 

If I could award a makeup Product of The Year prize, this new starter set by Temptu would take it for 2017. This set includes seven colors that will allow you to neutralize any discoloration in the fastest time and with the tiniest amount of makeup. Color correcting in airbrushing is not done very often because the airbrush foundations usually offer enough coverage, and layering a color corrector underneath can create unwanted texture. Moreover, because you are not applying a solid stroke of color but many tiny dots when airbrushing, the color correctors tend to be visible through the foundation or appear as grayish spots if applied too heavily. The game changes completely with this amazing set: their texture is so fine that they will literally erase the discoloration while you watch, and then rest invisibly under the foundation that you will apply on top. The Perfect Canvas formula means that these silicone based products behave almost like water based ones: they dry much faster and their finish is much finer that the classic silicone based counterparts. This makes them ideal for application in troubled areas, where they will not create extra texture, nor move or set in the fine lines even after many hours. Just like water based products, they generally won't require any powdering or setting after application. This set is a MUST HAVE for any makeup artist. Personal users who know what shade they need for their particular need will also be able to buy single colors from the Temptu Website. If you are outside the US, please check our LINKS directory for European Temptu retailers.

Disclaimer and recommendation: we have just described a makeup application technique. You should always describe the technique in full before attempting it on someone else, and always ascertain that there are no medical issues or impediments of any kind in working around the person's eyes or your own. Always test on yourself before trying on others, after receiving medical clearance. The above only reflects the writer's personal experience and opinion, and should never be considered as or in place of medical advice. 




Wednesday, October 4, 2017

Airbrush for Special Effects: Easy Succubus Halloween Tutorial with 3rd Degree Silicone

Halloween is many a makeup artist's dream festivity. Creativity runs amok and everybody is trying to outdo each other in coming up with the most whimsical and surprising look for the occasion. Some newbies might even feel intimidated at times, but the industry nowadays is supplying us with so many amazing products that literally anyone can create a frightfully good makeup without too much effort. Like every year we turned to our favorite online store in the world, Camera Ready Cosmetics, to put together the look you see in these photos and video tutorial. If you follow these pages you might have read our previous Camera Ready rave review of a couple of years ago. Since we wrote it the business moved to a new location in Dallas, Texas, and grew exponentially under the guidance of their amazingly talented founder and owner, makeup artist Mary Erickson. They now stock about twice as many brands, have lowered their shipping costs and continue with their policy of unrivaled customer service. Much to our delight, they stock an extensive catalogue of airbrush products and special effect supplies, and they ship all over the world at fair prices when many of their competitors still hesitate to do so. 
Let's talk about some of the products we used in our demo, hoping that what you see and read here will inspire you to get creative for Halloween 2017!



This amazingly versatile product is made of two components that must be mixed in equal parts. It is extremely easy to blend on the skin and can be cleaned up and smoothed out while still curing with 99% alcohol. It will cure in about 5 minutes, so be sure to work fast. Also be very careful not to cross contaminate the jars when extracting the product, or you may render it unusable. This product is available in various colors. We had the clear version which can also be easily colored intrinsically by mixing pigment in powder form. Once cured the application will look very shiny, but it can be painted easily and blended perfectly.

Skin Illustrator On Set Palettes
These alcohol activated pigments are the most famous and most widely used in the professional SFX industry. The On Set Palettes are smaller, more portable (and less expensive) versions of the full size product, and the colors apply so sheer on the skin that they will look like they are coming through from underneath, with a startlingly realistic effect. They can be reduced with their special Activator, which is less irritating to the eye than straight alcohol 99. To use these colors in your airbrush, as we did in the video, simply pour
a small amount of alcohol or activator in your airbrush cup and then "tint" it by dipping a brush into the palette's well and then "rinsing it" in the airbrush reservoir. It is a simple process that is quicker to do than to describe, and require minimal experimentation in order to achieve the right color intensity. If you don't want to do this, you can also order the same colors you find in the palettes in a liquid format that is ready to be airbrushed. 

European Body Art Colors
EBA is another brand that is becoming an industry standard in the SFX world, with outstanding lines  for airbrushing and solid palettes. We used Endura Airbrush Liquid (alcohol based) in white to prime the face and get rid of the silicone compound's shine, then some flesh tone and some straight black to finish the makeup. EBA also offers Endura Vibe, a line of water based colors of extraordinary pigmentation and water and rub resistance.

Bdellium Tools Brushes
So you finally saw me using a brush or two, and these could only be coming from the amazing SFX collection by Bdellium Tools, a vegan product created especially to achieve amazing pictorial textures. These brushes are another industry favorite, and if you look hard enough in related videos, you will see them being used by the very best artists in both the beauty and the special effects fields. 

Graftobian Walk-Around System
We fully reviewed this beauty in a previous post that you can read in our Kits Reviews page, and we are happy that CRC is still stocking this beauty!