Wednesday, February 28, 2018

What's new at Dinair in 2018 - Airbrush Makeup Review

Founded by Dina Ousley and partner George Lampman in 1981, Dinair was the first airbrush makeup brand to produce beauty makeup lines designed for both professionals and consumers. The company has remained fiercely independent through the years, and it's still a family business at heart that keeps growing along with the reputation of its product. Never happy to rest on its laurels, Dinair keeps renovating its offer and updating its formulas in order not only to remain current, but to produce innovation and inspire the rest of the industry.
Last year we gave you an extensive, unbiased guide to their vast offering, which you can read here. Let's see what has changed since then. If you wish to see all these new products in action, please check out this video we recently released where we use all of them. 

A new approach to concealing: Dinair Neutralizer

Concealing Rosacea with Dinair
While normal hyper pigmentation, redness and blemishes will be perfectly covered using just your preferred foundation line, Dinair has renewed its approach to concealing more serious imperfections.
Traditional color correctors such as light green for redness or peach for bluish/purple areas usually require a high level of skill while airbrushing: they must be used very sparingly or they may show under the foundation as greyish spots. To avoid this outcome, Dinair is now directing customers to conceal using just the foundation colors from their newly renamed Neutralizer line. Formerly known as Paramedical or Camouflage, the updated Neutralizer line is water based with a percentage of  cosmetic grade alcohol, and offers high coverage power and strong resistance to water and rubbing. This line is available in all the twenty shades that make up the other foundation lines, and while it can be used on its own, it is ideal in addressing just the trouble areas, and takes the guess work out of color correcting. Simply select the same color of your foundation, and neutralize the problem spots before applying your preferred preferred line (Glamour, Soft Glow or Radiance). The Neutralizer will conceal any shade of blemish underneath and even out your canvas for a perfect foundation application.

Strenghtening your finish: Foundation Extender

The biggest Dinair innovation this year as far as makeup is concerned is the new Foundation Extender line. This product can be added seamlessly to your preferred  foundation line to improve its wear, water and rub resistance, and comes in all the 20 shades that make up the foundations range. It works by adding just two drops every 6-8 drops of foundation directly in the airbrush cup, and then mixing them through back bubbling. The composition of the product is a lighter version of the Tattoo Cover (formerly Colair Extreme), the most powerful blocking product of all. It could be used on its own to block strong imperfections under the foundation, but the end result would probably be more obvious than what you would achieve by using the Neutralizer line instead (see above). I have tested this product and I have to say it does work remarkably well. I would reserve it for special occasions when prolonged wear is crucial, or when the climate is particularly threatening to the resistance of your makeup. Or you could use it (mixed with the remainder of your foundation) for those areas that are more prone to stress, such as the chin or the forehead if you have oily skin. In any case it's a great complement to have and it could be your foundation's best ally on many occasions.

Tattoo Cover

This product is the new version of the amazing Colair Extreme, offering total blocking power and the possibility to erase any tattoo or very visible skin tonal irregularity with just a few passes and no need for color correcting.  The formula is pretty much the same as the original, the only difference I could devise is that it flows better in the airbrush than before. Two shades (black and white) have been added as adjusters for the other 14 colors that mirror the most popular shades in the foundation lines. Thankfully the colors are now called by the same name used across the other lines, and no longer by number. The serial number remains printed under the name, an this is useful to determine the undertone (Warm tones are even numbers, cool tones are odd numbers and neutral tones end in 0 or 5).  The Tattoo Cover colors seem to have a less neutral slant, so for example if you get Olive Beige you might see that it looks more yellow than its counter part in any other line, This could be a chance variation on the batch that I received, however if you are considering getting your own shade in this line, you may want to buy the closest color with the opposite undertone as well in order to mix it and balance it out if necessary.

Dinair AirStyle and One Speed Compressor

Things never stand still at Dinair even as far as equipment is concerned.  A new One Speed compressor has been added to the line for the most inexpensive kit option. The next step up is now the Pro Basic compressor, which has variable airflow, and after that the Personal Pro, which is the one I would definitely recommend for its versatility and performance. The portable solution, battery powered compressor Dinair Go is no longer the only cable free option, and a new hand held device called AirStyle is now available. This unit is completely hose and cable free, and with a higher PSI output than the GO represents a very interesting option to give personal users complete mobility. Please read the in-depth review of the AirStyle kit in our previous article

We will be travelling to LA in may, and we are very excited to be touching base with our amazing friend at Dinair again. We can always look forward to this legendary brand to inspire and shake up the game for the whole airbrush makeup industry.
100% Dinair Airbrush Makeup, Unfiltered Skin

Wednesday, February 14, 2018

Dinair AirStyle Airbrush Makeup Kit Review and video tutorial

Dinair Airbrush Makeup: AirStyle Kit

Dinair AirStyle is the first all-in-one, hand-held rechargeable applicator to feature an actual airbrush.  The device debuted on the market at the end of 2017, and is now available on Dinair's webiste within a kit bundle or just by itself .

What is it?
Dinair AirStyle Airbrush
The AirStyle was conceived to allow Dinair users to apply makeup with total freedom, regardless of the location and independent form a power supply. As you can see from the images, it basically consists of a handle with an airbrush on top, and there is no air hose or power cord to stand in the way. The "handle", which houses the micro compressor, features an off/on button and a charging port at the bottom where you can plug in the charging cable, which features USB connectivity. According to the instructions the unit charges fully in about an hour, and a single charge provides over a half hour of continuous use. This means that if you remember to switch it off when you are not spraying (for example when you are loading colors) a single charge may last you up to five days for personal use. The airbrush on top is just 5'' (12 cm) long, and is a continuous airflow model with a classic screw-on nozzle wide enough for all of Dinair's colors and lines. The strength of the airflow is proportionately adequate, and while I have no way to measure it exactly I would estimate it at a good 10 PSI. The pressure output is not adjustable and remains constant throughout the battery life, and the unit simply stops working when the charge has run out. It will of course work while it is plugged in, so if  users miscalculate the time left on the charge all they will have to do is find an outlet to finish their application. The AirStyle is not a very quiet system. It produces a level of noise comparable to that of an average hair dryer. Not a major issue, but one to keep in mind if you wish to use it in the same room with someone who is sleeping.

Kit Contents
Dinair AirStyle Kit
The Airstyle Kit comes with the unit itself housed in a sleek white box with a molded velveteen tray inside, an elegant packaging solution reminiscent of Apple's devices. There is also a small clear pouch filled with goodies that are selectable from the options listed on the website page. You will get three foundation colors in your chosen color range and in your preferred line (Glamour, Soft Glow or Radiance are the options that Dinair offers based on their finish, please see this article for full explanation). You also get a blush, a highlighter and an eyebrow color, automatically selected to complement your choice of shade range, and of course you will be able to use these colors also as eye shadows. Also present is an eyebrow stencil set, a bottle of practice color for your exercises on paper (sheets are provided along with an operating instruction sheet), a sample of post-application moisturizer Moist and Dewy and one of cream concealer. Finally, a bottle of Dinair cleaner and a set of cleaning caps, with a bonus anti-spill cap. The small clear pouch housing these products is also the ideal size for your AirStyle. While it offers no shock protection, it is perfect for carrying the device and the few products you might need when going outside, which is what the kit is intended for in the first place.

Who it is for?
Dinair Airstyle in clear pouch
The Dinair Airstyle is intended explicitly and solely for Dinair product users. You will NOT be able to run products by other brands, at least not comfortably and without major clogs,  as the nozzle size and pressure output are designed exclusively to run with Dinair lines. This might sound strange to professionals who are used to thinking, as I do, that after all "an air source is an air source and an airbrush is an airbrush", but trust me, in this case the caveat does apply. A very good ally in using the product smoothly will be found in the Cleaning Cap system, which is included in the kit. The cleaning system works and works well, and it is crucial for optimal performance.

My experience and thoughts
I have been using the AirStyle system for a while now and I have to say it gets easier every time. Please view the video below to see it in action as I conceal prominent rosacea spots on a model. The ergonomics of the design may require a little getting used to if  you are used to traditional airbrushes, but the commodity of being unencumbered by cords and hoses makes me reach for it much more often than I expected for personal use.
On a technical level I find the idea of a a truly hand-held, cable and hose free compressor with a real, full-fledged airbrush nothing short of genius, and I highly commend George Lampman (Dinair's CEO and co-founder) for this remarkable innovation.
I think personal users will find the AirStyle to be a very interesting alternative to their table top system for all those occasions when mobility and speed are important. I do wish it came with a CX airbrush on top instead of the current one, because that is a superior quality airbrush and an easier one to maintain and deep clean. I also hope that future versions will feature charge indicator lights, a stand or base that would allow me to keep it on my desk upright, and a reduced noise output.
On a professional level I think the AirStyle has an enormous innovation potential.  With the addition of a few features such as a selectable pressure output and a quick-connect adapter (to allow you to connect any compatible airbrush), this  tool would represent a total game changer not only the airbrush makeup industry, where everyone would want one, but I suspect for airbrushing as a whole. I was fortunate enough to meet George Lampman, and I wouldn't be in the least surprised if he came up with exactly that product in the future. 

Thursday, December 21, 2017

DARK CIRCLES correction with Airbrush Makeup: How To Video and Temptu Review

100% Airbrush Makeup including dark circles correction
Correcting and concealing dark circles or under eye hyper pigmentation  is one of the most common yet hardest tasks when it comes to makeup. Why? The skin in the periocular area is thinner and often more mobile than anywhere else on the face, and subject to very fine to very pronounced creasing because of the muscles underneath.  In order to color correct the area with traditional makeup we need products with a high coverage power yet the lightest possible texture, because whatever we apply on this surface will inevitably end up enhancing the creases and lines that can very often be found there, whether it be due to aging or simply to natural constitution.

Enter airbrush makeup. First of all we have to dispel one of the most persistent false ideas about airbrushing: you CAN airbrush around the eyes, and it will NOT hurt, damage or irritate the eyes in any way, in fact it will bother the skin much less than a brush would. All you have to do is know how to do it. Once we have finally established that, let's see why we SHOULD airbrush the eye area. Because of the its complicated texture, the thicker the layers of product we apply, the more they will tend to move and set in the negative spaces thus making the texture more obvious. Airbrushing allows for the highest coverage with the lightest texture and thinnest layering imaginable, allowing for the best results. Moreover, the best products created for airbrushing don't need setting powder, set very quickly and remain in place without settling in fine lines for the longest time. Of course the end result in terms of effectiveness and durability will also depend on the unique characteristics of each individual, as factor such as age, firmness, oil production and so on will vary for everyone, but I can state with a certain confidence that if you try airbrush you may never want to go back to traditional. The following How To describes and illustrates the process used in the video tutorial enclosed in this article, as well as all the other tutorials we published. Please read the disclaimer at the bottom of the page before implementing any technique.

Preparation: Start with clean, hydrated skin. The moisturizer you use should be the lightest, least oily type that the individual will allow. Once the moisturizer has been thoroughly absorbed, you can judge whether a primer is necessary or not. If you are working on young, firm skin with little to no texture, a primer will be superfluous. Ultimately it depends on the product you use as well, as some (especially the silicone based ones) will act as a primer as well.

Application:When applying the makeup your client should start with closed, relaxed eyes. Give the person a chance to get used to the process and relax by spraying only air first, and describing the process. Your airbrush pressure should be set at the lowest PSI allowed by the type of product you are using. Test on paper first to make sure the nebulization is correct. Very often you will be able to correct the entire area without the person needing to open their eyes, which will be the most comfortable option. Very gently stretch the skin around the eyes to open creases and folds. You can do so by pulling lightly at the temple, the cheek under the eye or by "pinching" the bridge of the nose. Build the coverage using multiple passes and spraying as little as you can each time. Keep a suitable safe distance of at least 2 inches. Don't look to see the color you apply, rather observe the change in the skin and continue until you are satisfied. Angle the airbrush so you can spray under the bottom lashes and cover that area too. When the person opens the eyes, the skin closest to the eye rim might look uneven, as the whole texture can change. You can correct further by spraying light passes on the under eye area after asking the person to look up, so long as you are able to aim the air so that it doesn't hit the eye. You can also delicately place a soft plastic stencil directly below the bottom lashes to deflect any air at all from the eye if needed. Some people are more sensitive than others to air around their eyes, especially if they are wearing contact lenses. Make sure you test this before you start the actual makeup. Instruct the person to simply close their eyes if they feel their eyes water, and take a few seconds between passes so the person can relax. Have a q-tip ready should there be any tearing. Ask the person how they are doing all the time.

Problematic skin or sensitive person: If the person does feel uncomfortable keeping their eyes open while you are spraying, or if the small area under the bottom lashes still needs touching up, you can certainly go in with a velour pouf or with a small brush and fix the area. In the case of very mature skin, you can also use tiny amount of colorless HD powder to set the area further.


If I could award a makeup Product of The Year prize, this new starter set by Temptu would take it for 2017. This set includes seven colors that will allow you to neutralize any discoloration in the fastest time and with the tiniest amount of makeup. Color correcting in airbrushing is not done very often because the airbrush foundations usually offer enough coverage, and layering a color corrector underneath can create unwanted texture. Moreover, because you are not applying a solid stroke of color but many tiny dots when airbrushing, the color correctors tend to be visible through the foundation or appear as grayish spots if applied too heavily. The game changes completely with this amazing set: their texture is so fine that they will literally erase the discoloration while you watch, and then rest invisibly under the foundation that you will apply on top. The Perfect Canvas formula means that these silicone based products behave almost like water based ones: they dry much faster and their finish is much finer that the classic silicone based counterparts. This makes them ideal for application in troubled areas, where they will not create extra texture, nor move or set in the fine lines even after many hours. Just like water based products, they generally won't require any powdering or setting after application. This set is a MUST HAVE for any makeup artist. Personal users who know what shade they need for their particular need will also be able to buy single colors from the Temptu Website. If you are outside the US, please check our LINKS directory for European Temptu retailers.

Disclaimer and recommendation: we have just described a makeup application technique. You should always describe the technique in full before attempting it on someone else, and always ascertain that there are no medical issues or impediments of any kind in working around the person's eyes or your own. Always test on yourself before trying on others, after receiving medical clearance. The above only reflects the writer's personal experience and opinion, and should never be considered as or in place of medical advice. 

Wednesday, October 4, 2017

Airbrush for Special Effects: Easy Succubus Halloween Tutorial with 3rd Degree Silicone

Halloween is many a makeup artist's dream festivity. Creativity runs amok and everybody is trying to outdo each other in coming up with the most whimsical and surprising look for the occasion. Some newbies might even feel intimidated at times, but the industry nowadays is supplying us with so many amazing products that literally anyone can create a frightfully good makeup without too much effort. Like every year we turned to our favorite online store in the world, Camera Ready Cosmetics, to put together the look you see in these photos and video tutorial. If you follow these pages you might have read our previous Camera Ready rave review of a couple of years ago. Since we wrote it the business moved to a new location in Dallas, Texas, and grew exponentially under the guidance of their amazingly talented founder and owner, makeup artist Mary Erickson. They now stock about twice as many brands, have lowered their shipping costs and continue with their policy of unrivaled customer service. Much to our delight, they stock an extensive catalogue of airbrush products and special effect supplies, and they ship all over the world at fair prices when many of their competitors still hesitate to do so. 
Let's talk about some of the products we used in our demo, hoping that what you see and read here will inspire you to get creative for Halloween 2017!

This amazingly versatile product is made of two components that must be mixed in equal parts. It is extremely easy to blend on the skin and can be cleaned up and smoothed out while still curing with 99% alcohol. It will cure in about 5 minutes, so be sure to work fast. Also be very careful not to cross contaminate the jars when extracting the product, or you may render it unusable. This product is available in various colors. We had the clear version which can also be easily colored intrinsically by mixing pigment in powder form. Once cured the application will look very shiny, but it can be painted easily and blended perfectly.

Skin Illustrator On Set Palettes
These alcohol activated pigments are the most famous and most widely used in the professional SFX industry. The On Set Palettes are smaller, more portable (and less expensive) versions of the full size product, and the colors apply so sheer on the skin that they will look like they are coming through from underneath, with a startlingly realistic effect. They can be reduced with their special Activator, which is less irritating to the eye than straight alcohol 99. To use these colors in your airbrush, as we did in the video, simply pour
a small amount of alcohol or activator in your airbrush cup and then "tint" it by dipping a brush into the palette's well and then "rinsing it" in the airbrush reservoir. It is a simple process that is quicker to do than to describe, and require minimal experimentation in order to achieve the right color intensity. If you don't want to do this, you can also order the same colors you find in the palettes in a liquid format that is ready to be airbrushed. 

European Body Art Colors
EBA is another brand that is becoming an industry standard in the SFX world, with outstanding lines  for airbrushing and solid palettes. We used Endura Airbrush Liquid (alcohol based) in white to prime the face and get rid of the silicone compound's shine, then some flesh tone and some straight black to finish the makeup. EBA also offers Endura Vibe, a line of water based colors of extraordinary pigmentation and water and rub resistance.

Bdellium Tools Brushes
So you finally saw me using a brush or two, and these could only be coming from the amazing SFX collection by Bdellium Tools, a vegan product created especially to achieve amazing pictorial textures. These brushes are another industry favorite, and if you look hard enough in related videos, you will see them being used by the very best artists in both the beauty and the special effects fields. 

Graftobian Walk-Around System
We fully reviewed this beauty in a previous post that you can read in our Kits Reviews page, and we are happy that CRC is still stocking this beauty!

Thursday, September 14, 2017

How to airbrush eyeshadow with Temptu Air and Airpod Pro: Earth StoneCollection Video Tutorial

Temptu has quietly introduced another potential game changer with the release of the first eyeshadow colors in the new Perfect Canvas / Hydralock formula. The Earth Stone Collection includes six earthy, neutral shades that constitute the ideal palette for any natural tone or smokey look. My guess is that the brand wanted to test the waters for an eyeshadow line by starting with the basic go-to colors that any makeup artist cannot do without, encouraging the public to experiment more with their Temptu Air system and with their Airpod Pro.
Once again I find that congratulations are in order, because Temptu absolutely aced this product. 

Silicone based eyeshadow?
100% Temptu Airbrush Makeup, Unfiltered
Unfortunately there is a lot of prejudice among makeup artists on the idea of airbrushing eye shadow. Many imagine that the level of skill required to work on such a tiny space as the eyelid surpasses their own, while others have had less than satisfactory experiences with the way the colors behave on the mobile lid, especially when using silicone based formulae.
The classic Temptu S/B line, which I absolutely love, does imply a little learning curve when it comes to using the many beautiful shades available for eyeshadow. In order to avoid creasing, the S/B colors require lid preparation,  a thin, layered application, very thorough drying of each layer and possibly setting spray before eyes can be opened in order to avoid creasing. That said, once these precautions have been taken, the color payoff is amazing and the product will stay perfect for hours and will be completely waterproof.
These Perfect Canvas Airshadows simply retain all the good qualities of the S/B line, at the same time doing away with the drawbacks. They dry quickly and do not require extra prep or setting. They do not crease or move, and are also totally waterproof, with a perfect wear for hours and hours. Because of the tonality they are also super easy to blend. In short creating a beautiful eye makeup is literally a breeze even for less experienced airbrushers, who will become proficient at using them after a simple try or two. Moreover, the colors are very comfortable to wear and feel soft on the skin, and do not feel or look in any way heavy, in fact quite the opposite.

Earthy pleasures...
100% Temptu Airbrush Makeup with Temptu Air
The Earth Stone Collection comes as a starter set of 7.5 ml bottles for use with your traditional airbrush or with the Airpod Pro. Each color also comes in Airpod form for use with the Temtpu Air System or with the Airpod airbrush. As far as the application goes, I have shot the enclosed video tutorial to show how the colors can be easily used with the portable system and the Airpod Pro. Personally, I still prefer my traditional airbrush as I feel that I can achieve a more precise, easier to control application. Having said that I do believe it is just a matter of habit, and if you use your pods often enough you should have no particular problem in getting good results with that option.

Perfect Canvas Color Correctors
An important complement in achieving the look of the video was also Temptu's new Perfect Canvas Color Corrector set. This bundle contains seven popular complementary colors that can correct any type of skin irregularity. Once again this is a fantastic product with an amazing correcting power, that works perfectly for the Hydralock/Perfect Canvas Foundation line, which is by nature sheerer in order to allow for a natural finish. The correctors work so fast and so undetectably that it was hard to render in the video we shot. It took only a couple of second to neutralize our model's under eye area perfectly. Once again this product represents a fly in the face of the false myth that you "cannot airbrush around the eyes". You can indeed, and indeed you should, with the right amount of pressure and after a little practice to make sure you are using your tools correctly around the delicate eye area. 

More please!
Temptu has already switched their highlighters and blush airpod lines to the new Hydralock formula, which makes them completely compatible with the Airshadow range and opens up a whole lot of possibilities for eyeshadow designs. I really hope that they will soon offer more Airshadow colors, perhaps reissue the former S/B Hi Def and Multicolors selections with the new Hydralock formulation as well, so that we can continue using bold and beautiful colors. I hope this video and review will inspire more people to try airbrushing eyeshadow. Aside form the advantages of speed, durability, hygiene, no transfer and waterproof finish, airbrushing eye looks is jut plain fun!.

Wednesday, August 30, 2017

How to assemble, disassemble and clean your airbrush for makeup (with video tutorial)

Let's tackle one of the most feared and often misunderstood aspects of airbrush makeup: the assembly, disassembly and cleaning of your airbrush.
The bad news: cleaning is boring. There is no way around it. Even if you are a bit obsessive compulsive like me, and even if you love your instrument and enjoy taking care of it, like I do.  It is also inevitable. You cannot skip or delay cleaning your airbrush at the end of a session, at least minimally, or you might compromise its functioning. But more on that later.
The good news: cleaning an airbrush is NOT difficult and does not take much longer than cleaning a medium size brush once you get used to the process. If you consider that an airbrush does the job of many brushes, or if you are like me of all of them, you will realize that you will in fact save time by cleaning just one tool as opposed to many.

A simple matter of practice.
Practice is all it takes in order to become fast and efficient at cleaning your precious tool without causing damages. Once you become familiar with the pieces you will get faster and faster. These days it takes me less than a minute to disassemble any of my airbrushes. In the enclosed video I have slowed down the process a bit to show you how it works as clearly and as closely as possible. The video wasn't easy to film and may not be technically perfect, but it sure is clearer than any I have been able to find. The airbrush I am using in the video is the Temptu SP-40. This excellent tool is produced by Sparmax and has the exact same parts and look of its more popular twin, the ubiquitous SP-35 which is the flagship airbrush of most makeup brands, including Temptu, Graftobian, Kryolan, Airbase, Mistair, Monda Studio, Ten Image and Sparmax's own Element Two, making it the most widely used airbrush for makeup. Other brands use their own proprietary airbrushes or more generic tools produced by third parties. These may have parts that differ slightly (such as a floating nozzle instead of a screw in one, or a primary lever that is attached to the piston below), but the process of assembly and cleaning should not change much.

I almost always prefer not to voice over my videos as I would like them to be enjoyed by anyone all over the world regardless of the language they speak, so I'd like to add a few more suggestions here and point out a few things that may be overlooked when watching the video. 

TIPS for assembling / disassembling

Always work over a tray, a plate or any kind of flat enclosed surface when disassembling your airbrush. There are many tiny pieces, and these will easily fall from your hands. If they hit the floor you may spend hours looking for them, and they may get damaged by the fall.

Except for the hose attachment and the air valve, no part of the airbrush should be wound too tightly or you will compromise the proper functioning of the parts. The spring case and needle chucking nut in particular need to be carefully balanced, or the lever and needle will not function properly. Don't worry, you will develop an awareness of the right balance very quickly after the first few times.

The nozzle is the most delicate part of the airbrush, and the one where almost all the issues with the flow originate.
Once again, be extra careful when unscrewing and screwing in the part. If you apply too much pressure the wrong way, the tip of the nozzle will break and separate from its base, which will remain stuck in the airbrush threading. Pay extra attention to the way the airbrush is turned in the video, and to the direction in which I am turning the wrench when removing or reattaching the nozzle. If the nozzle does break DON'T PANIC, it will be relatively easy to clear the base from the threading using a tooth pick, and you will be able to buy a spare nozzle from your brand's website or directly from a Sparmax retailer.

The needle is the other delicate part in your airbrush. The tip is very fine and if handled improperly it can bend ever so slightly and compromise the product flow. Once again pay attention to how I use my fingers in the video to lean on the airbrush body when inserting the needle. If you do bang the tip of your needle there are easy ways to repair it, or if it has bent too much once again you can always buy a replacement needle from your brand's website or from a Sparmax retailer.

Aside from that little extra attention that you have to pay the nozzle and needle, the airbrush is not that delicate at all. It's made of steel, and breaking it is actually very difficult. Most times when people think they have "broken" their airbrush they simply tightened a screw too much or too little, or there is some extra cleaning that they neglected to do.

Tips for cleaning:

The video shows you five different stages of cleaning. You can use them in sequence or one step at a time and in any order you see fit, but the answer to the question is: clean whatever is appropriate whenever it's needed. There is only one rule: you must always clean your airbrush at the end of a day's work, and if you are using alcohol based products, you should clean (or at least rinse) as soon as you're done. This is because alcohol based colors dry very quickly and will clog your system very fast. If it does happen don't worry, everything will go back to normal after a deep clean, but it will take a while. This is another reason why you should always have at least one spare airbrush if you go out on a job. And talking of jobs, a deep clean is not necessary at the end of a session if you are using the airbrush on yourself or for home studying, but you should always do one the day before you work on a client. You want your airbrush to be in tip top shape in a professional situation, and never risk embarrassment. I personally test the airbrushes before I leave for a makeup session, you can never be too sure.

Almost every makeup brand has its own cleaning product. This is because each formulation is slightly different (water base, hybrid base, silicone base, alcohol base...). If you just ran out of your specific cleaner or you want to carry just one that will work with all the different formulae, Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) at 99% purity is your best bet, as it will work on anything. A more "natural" alternative to alcohol 99% is Nurturing Force Airbrush and Brush Cleaner. This is a wonderful, non toxic product made of food grade ingredients that comes as a concentrate, so you will need to mix a few drops in the cup with some water. It will be slower than alcohol 99% on silicone and alcohol based products, but it will do its job well and with no chemicals involved.

One of the best kept secrets in the airbrush makeup industry is this product by Dinair called Deep Clean. It does an amazing job of dissolving the toughest clogs in just a few minutes. It must be used sparingly because it's not exactly ideal on the inner plastic o-rings that are present in the inner recesses of your airbrush, but if you stick to the suggested times (just a few minutes) it's perfectly safe to use. I use it very often instead of IPA to clean the nozzle as shown in the video.

Finally, there is nothing better and more effective than an ultra sonic cleaner in order to get your airbrush back to like new functionality. It doesn't have to be an expensive machine, and you can easily find one online. They are sold as "Jewellery Ultra Sonic Cleaners", and any of them will do so long as the frequency is around 42,000 Hz, the well is big enough to contain your airbrush, and
they plug in the mains (there are some battery operated ones too, but they don't seem nearly powerful enough). You only need to use it for the pieces that come in contact with the colors, but of course you can put in all the other ones as well if you wish, just remember to disassemble everything first, or it will be ineffective. 

Tuesday, August 8, 2017

Airbase airbrush Pro makeup kit review!

Last week we introduced the British brand Airbase with a detailed review of their makeup line and a video tutorial of a fully airbrushed makeup look. 
Now it's time to take an in depth look at the tools that this company offers in their pro kits. There are several kit combinations on offer on the website, all including a different selection of makeup and tools and proportionally priced. All the pro kits share the same compressor and airbrush. Other optional components can be ordered from the website regardless of the chosen kit composition.

The compressor and Airbrush
Like most of the best brands of airbrush makeup, Airbase decided to source their tools from the high quality yet cost effective catalogue of Taiwanese manufacturer Sparmax. The Airbase kit features the beauty industry workhorse called DC-25, a very reliable, quiet, small and light weight compressor that never disappoints, with its maintenance free motor capable of an output of up to 30 PSI (2.1 BAR). The Airbrush is another beauty industry standard, the SP .35 with its sleek chrome finish and its stylish carrying case. The reason why many company feature this same airbrush is very simple: it's one of  very best tools for makeup out there, and it will not disappoint you. Because of its ubiquity, it will also be very easy to find spare parts for this instrument no matter where you are.

Variables and accessories
As I was saying earlier, the Airbase kit has a series of optional components that can be part of your selected bundle, and if they are not they can easily be ordered from the online store on the website. A little but crucial part that should not be missing from your professional kit is the Pressure Adjuster. This is currently included only in the Platinum kit, but in my opinion it should be added to all the other options too. It's a simple valve that must be screwed in between the airbrush and the air hose, and that will allow you to lower the pressure output for more delicate parts of the face, such as around the eyes, making the whole experience more comfortable for the client and the application of the makeup truly flawless. Then there is a bunch of other add-ons that can be selected at your discretion. The rechargeable battery pack will allow you to complete a whole makeup and more in total mobility, which some may consider very important. The cleaning pot is always a very safe, practical and professional way to discharge your airbrush during makeup and cleaning. Speaking of cleaning, the online store also offers a reasonably priced ultrasonic cleaning machine. This is an excellent tool that will restore your airbrush to like new conditions every time you use it. Not many makeup companies offer these online, so it is great that Airbase does. Finally, the shading pad is included in every kit option and it's very useful when creating contouring effects and eyeshadow designs. 

Airbase Airbrush Makeup Case
The Airbase Makeup Case
This one complement needs a special mention. I don't even know if this is the most practical way of carrying your airbrush kit, but it certainly is the best looking. The Airbase case is so sleek and awesome that I finally had to give in and buy it. With a sturdy, anti scratch outer paneling and a custom made foam insert with spaces for pretty much every component of your pro kit, the case makes for a luxurious, awesome presentation item and it's just plain gorgeous (see photo for indication of what goes where). It is included in the Platinum Kit bundle, but can also be purchased from the pro section of the online store at a later stage if you started with a different kit option. 

Makeup Complements
Our previous review focused on the main silicone based line. Airbase also offers a hybrid silicone/water based line of primary colors that can be used alone or mixed together to create infinite possibilities for fantasy makeup and body painting, or even simply as eye shadow colours. We will feature this line in a future tutorial. Other high quality makeup components offered by the airbase online sotre include the best selling First Base Perfecting primer, a fine HD powder, corrector and concealer palettes, and a selection of ultra pigmented eyeshadows presented in palettes that have been raved about by several beauty gurus on YouTube.