Temptu Marsala starter set and Color True lipstick: review and video demo!

Temtpu Marsala Set & Color True Lipstick

Every year the world leading authority on color Pantone organizes a meeting of experts in a secret town in Europe to determine what the color of the following year will be. The outcome of the meeting will influence every visual industry very deeply, starting of course with fashion and makeup. When the color Marsala was announced as the choice for 2015, Temptu was not caught unprepared: their wide range of silicone based shades already included an ideal group of colors that could be bundled together to create fantastic looks within the new color of the year palette. The Marsala S/B Starter Set is a wonderful selection that will inspire any airbrush artist to move out of their comfort zone and experiment more with their airbrush. This liquid palette includes four matte shades :Brick, (which is a perfect Marsala) and Wine, Plum and Raspberry. The matte colors are complemented by four more shimmer shades: Pearl, Peachy Pink, Champagne and Gold. Please scroll down for swatches. 

Each of these colors can be used in a variety of ways, alone or combined, to create highlights, eye shadows, blushes and even lip shades. In a situation where the only limits are those of your own imagination, I find that grouping colors in palettes can be wonderfully helpful, and I really hope that Temptu will come out with more in the future. The bottom line here is one that the company itself is starting to use in their marketing: airbrushing is so much more than foundation!  There is still a lot of diffidence amongst airbrush MUAs when it comes to airbrushing eyes, especially with silicone based products that scare many because of their mobility on the eyelid. I personally love the possibilities that S/B colours offer, especially for eyeshadow. I love their soft blend, and once they are properly set, they are virtually indestructible. 

 

The video tutorial we are posting here is aimed at showing exactly what we just described. We used the recent Marsala campaign by Sephora as our inspiration in creating this look entirely with Temptu products. We used almost the entire Marsala set and other colors coming from the foundation group and from the Airbrow kit. 

Temptu Aibrush Makeup: Marsala Set

We are also super excited in introducing Temtpu's amazing new line of lipstick called Color True lipsticks. These are truly among the best lipsticks we ever tried. They are amazingly pigmented, and you can see for yourself right in our video the 100% color payoff they offer. The texture is firm but incredibly smooth, and the finish is beautifully semi-matte. There are currently 8 shades available and while they are on the pricey side, the website often offers promotional codes that will allow you to save considerably even if you don't have a pro card.

Finally, Temptu Pro has just launched a new series of  kit combinations, so if you are considering trying this brand for the first time or if you are looking for an upgrade of what you already have, there is not better time than now for a visit to the Temptu Pro website! 

PRO TIP: To airbrush silicone based eyeshadow successfully, lightly prime the eyelid with silicone based primer. Spray colors lightly, thoroughly dry with airbrush on air only, then spray Mist & Fix by Makeup Forever and dry again: your eyeshadow is now set and will not crease, smudge, transfer or move.

Temptu Airbrush Makeup Marsala S/B Set Swatches

Ultra glam airbrush makeup look with Liquid Metals by Kett: video tutorial

Made with Kett Liquid Metals

The Holidays are upon us and metallic shimmers are back in the spotlight, so it is only natural that we would focus on the fantastic Liquid Metals series by leading airbrush makeup brand Kett.

We had been eyeing these gorgeous colors for a long time, and we were finally super excited to get them from the always fantastic Camera Ready Cosmetics, with the added bonus of free and super fast shipping. The Liquid Metals line was launched by Kett a couple of years ago and we feel that in spite of the wild acclaim  received from every blogger that tried these colours, there is still a little room for yet some more celebration. There are six gorgeous shades in the line (Iron Maiden, Mercury, Stardust, Rush, TNT and Purlple Haze) , each color coming in a generous half ounce (15 ml) bottle priced st jus 16 dollars each. The colour payoff is simply amazing. For once you get a product that looks even bolder and more vibrant out of the bottle. 

The staying power of these pigments is definitely above average. The colors don't budge or crease, and you can touch them once applied with no fear whatsoever of them transferring. 

Airbrush Eye Makeup with Kett Liquid Metals

What's even more impressive is their versatility: you can apply them in sheer layers with your airbrush, or create stunning "liquid metal" effects by using your traditional brushes. In the video demo posted below we did just that. The look is inevitably bold and trendy, but of course these colours can be used as subtly as any airbrush eyeshadow... except that being subtle in a demo with such powerful pigments is like going half the speed limit on a Ferrari, so we decided to go for a bold eyeshadow look and a more layered approach to blush and highlighting, also achieved using liquid metals. The makeup was completed using other classic Kett products from the contouring and foundation lines. The shade "Shape" is a wonderful colour to contour Caucasian complexion, creating very natural lowlights. Finally we blended everything with the foundation 03 from the Kett Hydro line. This product, available in five olive based shades and five ruby based tones is one of the most highly praised water based foundations ever, with its soft, natural texture and perfectly balanced hue. Of course everything was applied with Kett's Transformer Airbrush, an excellent and versatile tool that we reviewed in the last few months. The Kett products are compatible with any professional system featuring a compressor with a minimum output of 10 PSI and an airbrush nozzle of .25 and up.

This video tutorial was co-designed and assisted by our collaborator Angela Rosa, and our wonderful model Silvia. From all of us at Airbrush Makeup Guru, all the very best for the forthcoming Holidays!

Airbrush maekup kit review and video tutorial: Belloccio airbrush kit

The Belloccio Airbrush Kit

Tri City Paints is a company established in 1976 and distributing paints and airbrushing tools for the most diverse uses, from architectural and automotive to fine arts. With the growing success of airbrushing in the field of cosmetics, it was only natural that this company should develop its own brand of airbrush makeup, and so Belloccio was born. The Belloccio brand is proudly marketed for the general consumer, and this is great as more competition in the market can only mean constant improvement and a better quality-price ratio. As a professional I am happy to report that this product exceeded my expectation as far as the makeup is concerned, and that many a MUA would appreciate and find good use for this line. Let's take a closer look at the Kit.

Unretouched before and after with Belloccio Aribrush Makeup

The first thing that has to be said about the Belloccio kit is that the price is really very honest. Their most basic option, now called Beauty System, is only U$D119,  and the other kits go up from there varying in price according to the size of the makeup bottles and the number of shades included. The mini compressor and airbrush will be exactly the the same for every Kit option, but a professional and much more powerful alternative (Model TC-32 Air Compressor) is offered in the equipment page of the the website for a reasonable price. The kit that I found at the New York Makeup Show and that I am reviewing here is called Standard Kit, and has the same exact contents as the Beauty System, but with the foundations in 1/2 oz size instead of 1/4 oz. To give you an idea of what you can get right out of the box we created the look demonstrated in our video tutorial using only the contents of this kit.

Natural look with Belloccio Airbrush Makeup Kit

The Makeup was the best discovery for me. It is practically fool proof, allowing for multiple layers with no danger whatsoever of a caked result. The water based formula is sheerer and thinner than a lot of comparable products, but offers very good coverage and stability, and results in a totally undetectable application. To give you an idea it is thinner than Dinair and thicker than Luminess, and the shades have an excellent tonal balance. If you are a home consumer daunted by the idea of airbrushing yuor makeup you can rest easy: it is almost impossible to look overdone using this product, and the application will feel as easy as the ads promise. If you are a makeup artist, you will find this line to be a very strong contender when tasked with a corrective job for HD that needs to be undetectable, such as for a "no makeup" period piece or for men's grooming in general.  The finish of the foundation is matte, but not overly dry. As for the formula composition, we definitely love and appreciate the addition of Aloe and Hyaluronic Acid in a list of ingredients that does not include fragrances, oils or parabens. The formula, while water based, is not entirely silicone free as it contains Dimethicone, something you should be aware if you have an intolerance to silicone. As with any water based formula you will benefit from priming and moisturizing before application. An airbrushable primer is included in the package, and it works reasonably well for everyday use on normal to oily skin. Its formula contains anti aging ingredients as well as Hyaluronic acid, Aloe and also Dimethicone. The same characteristics are also true of the other makeup products that you will find in the kit. The blush, bronzer and shimmer all apply in very sheer and buildable layers, as you can see in our video demo.

Made with Belloccio

The application tools provided are of course intended for home use and for this brand specifically. The very slick looking mini compressor has three different pressure settings: medium for foundation, low for eyes and details and high for tanning or cleaning. It has a maximum output of 15 PSI, the same as the Dinair and slightly less than Luminess, but it is significantly louder than both the other brands. The low-noise claim in regard to this machine is the only statement I have to disagree with in the Belloccio marketing. While not offensively so, this little devil is definitely on the loud side.

Made with Belloccio

As far as the airbrush goes, the .4 mm nozzle airbrush provided is once again adequate for the makeup, and its maintenance very easy if used with Belloccio products only. If you are wondering about compatibility with other brands of makeup, this kit will be fine with any water based makeup of similar viscosity to Belloccio's, but I would not recommend using thicker or silicone based formulas as the compressor may not be strong enough to guarantee a smooth application. As always, also be aware that using other brands of makeup may void the Belloccio warranty on the equipment. 

The kit also features a 4 oz bottle of airbrush cleaner, a sample of Belloccio highly praised self tanning formula and a makeup bag where you can store everything comfortably. It does not feature an instructional DVD, but you can find a good selection of tutorials both on YouTube and directly on the Belloccio Website. Of course you can also watch our own, we hope it will inspire you to try this brand for yourself. Belloccio ships in all the approved FedEx countries, including the UK, Spain, Mainland France and most of Europe. 

Airbrush Makeup Kit In-Depth Review: Temtpu 2.0 Starter Kit

We have written extensively about Temptu in the last few months, which should not be any wonder given their status as world leading brand in silicone based makeup, among many other things. Today we are going to review Temptu's latest kit offering, called 2.0 Starter Kit, which is currently being offered on their website for 250 U$D. 

Temptu 2.0 Starter Kit

Let us get this out of the way right at the beginning: in our humble (but quite informed) opinion, this is simply the BEST kit combination being offered right now on the market and featuring a mains reliant compressor. The quality and quantity of the components and their value make this the best choice for a starting professional contemplating airbrush makeup. In a rather comical twist of fate, we had assembled this very same combination (with a compatible airbrush) for the students of our classes a almost a year before Temptu came up with this package, so we can't help but feel a little proud and a lot validated, even though of course we never told them about it. Let's look at this beautiful bundle up close. 

The compressor is Temtpu's standard 2.0 model. It is in short a slightly improved version of their very first mini compressor, gutsier and quieter than its predecessor but with the same maximum power of 30 PSI, a very remarkable strength for such a small and light unit. The 2.0 compressor will allow you to use any kind of airbrush makeup (water based, silicone based and alcohol based), and it will allow you to execute a full body painting with no major problems. It has a security shut off system that will turn off the machine after 15 minutes of continued use, but I can assure you that in years of extensive usage It never shut off on me once. The reason?  It is almost statistically impossible that you will keep it running for that long without switching off if only to recharge your airbrush. So unless you have to body paint twenty people in a single session, or to do extensive FX using paints rather than makeup, this compressor will be more than adequate. Another plus of this latest edition is the colour choice, which is not restricted to black anymore, but also offers White, Hot Pink, Poppy Red (more orange than red) , Lime Green, and Light Blue. 

Temptu SP-40 Airbrush

The airbrush included in this kit is a brand new model made for Temptu for this specific release, the SP-40. It looks exactly as the SP-35, the brand's trusted workhorse, but as the name suggests it has a slightly wider nozzle. You will still be able to do detail with this size, please keep in mind that we are talking a difference of points of a decimal, but the slight difference allows for a better flow, which is great especially with thicker silicone based products. A peculiarity of this airbrush is its "hybrid" mechanism, which means it is a continuous airflow airbrush, but you can also push down the trigger to make it work, as you would in a standard dual action airgun. I am saying that you can push down, not that you have to, as the act of pushing down does not have any effect whatsoever. I suspect this mode was chosen to create a transitional tool for people who are used to dual action airbrushes. If it bothers you in any way, all you have to do is unscrew the valve (easy to find in specialist shops)  and replace to turn the gun in a standard dual action or a simpler "continuous airflow" tool. [For further clarification on these terms, please read this article on the subject].  The airbrush comes with a custom hose connector that will allow you to plug it in the standard hose provided with the 2.0 compressor. What is great is that you can use this very same connector to attach any other airbrush with a standard 1/8 fitting (that means most models and brands around). 

Also included in the kit is an AIRpod airbrush tool, that will allow you to use Temptu's proprietary AIRpod capsules. While the AIRpod line is still the one originally conceived for consumers and has a different formula and colour system than the pro S/B line, it is absolutely great to be able to experiment with it, as it can be a real time saver and a great commodity in many a situation. 

As for Makeup, this package includes the S/B Foundation Starter Set which means all the 12 colors in the S/B Foundation range in 1/4 oz. bottles, and a bottle of airbrush cleaner which is indispensable for silicone based makeup. We love the S/B line and have written extensively about it here. The Kit also includes an AIRPod highlighter in Gold, an excellent choice to familiarize yourself with this proprietary technology, as highlighters are really quite wonderful in this line. The presence of both the SP-40 airbrush and the AIRpod make this kit much preferable to another bundle being offered, the "Starter System " with the SE-50 Airbrush that we have also tried to less than exciting results (this model seems to be from another manufacturer and is not up to par with the SP airbrushes).  

We have used the 2.0 Starter Kit and many more Temptu products in our latest video tutorial, the very first fully airbrushed drag makeup video every made. We hope it will give you an idea of how fantastic this brand really is. 

Drag Airbrush Makeup video tutorial with Temptu Pro Multicolors!

100% airbrushed eyes with Temptu

Is silicone based airbrush makeup really viable for eyes? A lot of makeup artists love airbrushing foundation, but quite a few still have doubts when it comes to eyeshadows, especially with silicone based makeup. Maybe they are just too fond of their brushes, or maybe they haven't experimented at length with the possibilities that silicone colours can mean to eye makeup. More realistically, they may be wary of the challenges that the very mobile and often uneven skin on eye area poses, especially when using a medium that requires a relatively long drying time. 

Airbrushed with Temptu

When Temptu Pro came out with a collection of new S/B shades called Multicolors I couldn't wait to try them and confront those very doubts for myself. As always I purchased my set from wonderful CRC Makeup, who ship worldwide. Drag makeup has always been the perfect context in which to test the possibilities offered by any makeup line, stretching them both creatively and technically. I was inspired by the makeup of LaLa McCallan, which is always airbrushed in its entirety (with water based colours) safe for an undercoat of creme products used to create an even canvas for airbrushing on top. I decided to pursue a very classic (and hopefully classy!) at this stage, leaving more experimental looks for the next round.

 

Airbrushed with Temptu

The results of the experiment are in this video, of which I am also proud as it is, as far as I know, the first entirely airbrushed drag makeup tutorial ever. The colours used for the eyes are all from the Multi Colors set. The set consists of 12 wonderful shades, which you can see in the airbrushed swatches posted below. The colours are of course extremely pigmented and vibrant, and like the rest of Temptu's S/B line the coverage is fantastic. There are ten matte shades and two shimmers, Pearl and Platinum, created especially for this set and not included in the standard Shimmers Set they offer. Application, as you can see in the video, is extremely smooth. 

Drag Airbrush Makeup

Drying the colours with air only after application is essential, as is a light dusting of clear setting powder. An extra step that I took off camera and totally on a whim was a couple of spritzes of Makeup Forever's Mist & Fix setting spray. After taking these precautions, the makeup did not move, crease, or smudge for the entire time of filming and the extensive photo session that followed. It was still perfect when our model went to take the makeup off. For giggles, I told him to soak his face with water and dry it to see what would happen. Nothing moved in the least. Silicone eye makeup offers perfect and super fast blending possibilities, and when properly set is indestructible. I hope this video will inspire more makeup artists to experiment with it, as it is definitely worth it. 

The whole tutorial was shot using Temptu's starter kit with the 2.0 compressor and the brand new SP 40 airbrush. We also used AirPod for blush and final highlights. We will post an in depth review of the system very soon. You can also find a review of the whole S/B line here and here. 

Swatches of Temptu Pro Multicolors, Part 1

Swatches of Temptu Pro Multicolors, Part 2

Airbrush Makeup Guru Profiles: an interview with RJ Haddy from Face Off

Long before it became popular in beauty makeup, airbrushing has been a staple in the special effects industry, as the amazing show Face Off demonstrates in every episode. We will be talking more and more about FX on these pages, and what better way to start on the subject than an interview with one of our favorite Face Off alumni of all times: "RJ" Haddy!
Please click on each image to see every amazing makeup in full size.

 

Robert "RJ" Haddy

Robert"RJ" Haddy is a terrific special effect artist with extensive movie credits and impressive teaching experience. A native of Charleston, West Virginia, He has become a household name to FX fans world wide thanks to his double stint in Face Off, the SYFY hit reality competition show that has played such a major role in bringing the world of special effects makeup to the mainstream public. RJ was one of the three finalists of season two, and returned for a further five episodes for the show's fifth season, an atypical "veterans vs newcomers" edition. His Bell Hop makeup, inspired by the imagery of Tim Burton, was one of the most memorable looks ever featured on the show, and in my opinion it sums up RJ's most prominent trade mark, with its mixture of perfectly executed makeup, inspired fabrication and superb attention to details, all accompanied by an irresistible underlying sense of humour. Since the show RJ has kept an incredibly busy schedule, teaching highly praised courses and seminars and being featured prominently in the most important makeup related events around the US. RJ has his own product distribution website, www.radfxco.com, and has also achieved what to us airbrush makeup fans is the ultimate accomplishment: he has designed a signature airbrush called "The Shadow" with Leading American airbrush brand Paasche. We are very excited to be able to ask RJ a few questions on his life and his art.

-What made you decide to become a makeup artist?

 Well I started out as a puppeteer when I was very young building and creating puppets, and it sorta transformed (or transgressed if you will LOL) to FX make up because the techniques and materials for more advanced puppetry are almost identical. In fact it's FX artists that create all the animatronic monsters you see in films.

RJ's unforgettable Bell Hop Face Off Makeup

-During the course of FaceOff you often described the beautiful relationship you had with your parents. Were they immediately supportive of your passion for FX?

Not from the get go. I think my mother still wants me to become a dentist or a doctor at some point, lol but once they saw what I could do that I was pretty decent at it and could make things with my hands they became very supportive.

-You are a graduate of the celebrated Joe Blasco Make up Artist Training Center in Hollywood. How difficult was the transition into the professional working world after leaving school?

Actually, if there was one thing that was the best help of attending Joe Blasco it was the preparatory for how to find and procure jobs: that was the most valuable information parlayed to me through the courses ... I was already a pretty decent make up artist by the time I got there but had NO clue about how the business of films worked or how we as make up people were to find jobs and work in the industry. So for that reason above all others it was beneficial and worth being in school. This is business stuff that you can either learn by getting thrown to the wolves and making lots of mistakes, or from someone a little older and wiser, and that was a HUGE help!

-Your original creations seem to be conceived with performance in mind, as opposed to static beauty, and I know you have some acting experience already. Do you imagine yourself pursuing acting more in the future?

RJ in his super popular Penguin cosplay

 Actually yes, I just finished filming a cameo role in a very neat thriller by Fist In Post productions called “Old Baby” and I am currently working on producing my own film “The Family Business: Blood is Thicker” for my own production company Rad F/X Pictures. I will star in the film in a way reminiscent of an Eddie Murphy or Mike Meyers vehicle where I wear several character makeups and play 3-4 different characters throughout the film. The difference between those guys and me is that I can design and apply the make up AND act in it ;) It's going to be a wild ride of a film Id love it if you could check it out a little more by visiting our facebook fan page for the film and there you will find lots of behind the scenes photos and exclusive stuff that I won't be posting anywhere else. What we do is only 50% completed when we pass it off to the actor. The actor has to create that character based on the script and what you have physically transformed them into. Many times they do not have the complete puzzle until the first time they see themselves in make up: Now think of a make up artist, who is also an actor, creating the make up for the many weeks prior to the first application. That person will SOAR in the role because of all the prep time they have had to think about the physical direction the make up is going into and I think its honestly the purest form of BOTH arts. I love acting make up artists like Lon Chaney, for example... and even Tom Savini... Actors who intrinsically KNOW how the make up is created and how far they can push the boundaries are usually very seasoned in wearing FX make up and have been doing it for many years. Stuff like that usually only comes in time... but an acting make up artist knows both sides of that coin and can hone in on a character BEFORE ever seeing himself in make up and once he is ... stand back and watch the show ;)

-I would like to move on to our favourite subject now, which is of course airbrushing. Face Off did an incredible service to this technique simply by showing how much it is actually used in the FX world. A lot of our readers, especially here in Europe, had no idea of the extent of its use until they saw the show. When did you first learn how to airbrush?

 I picked up my first airbrush, a Paasche VL, when I was 13 years old. I was instantly hooked, but I was also a stupid kid, lol ... I didn’t understand the importance of or how to clean one properly until after I went to Joe Blasco. Cleaning is VITAL to keeping your brush in proper working order! Not tomorrow, the next day, or next time you use it but IMMEDIATELY after usage and before you store it. TRUST ME! It really is a key component in speeding up the entire process.

-What aspects of airbrushing that you like most, and what in your opinion is the greatest misconception in regards to this technique among young makeup artists today?

18 to 88 Aging on actor Jordan Nickles 

 Well That's a tough question.... but I guess I can summarise it in this way: an airbrush could make a MONKEY look like they know how to paint. I recently did a make up that was a typical “cracked doll make up” for a client. I decided I would paint the cracks in by hand the first day. The second day I used the airbrush to paint in the cracks and the difference was astounding. I didn’t think it would make that much of a difference, but it was just a more complete, uniform look. Also I love the process of painting in thin translucent layers. You can get the thin washes of colour layered one on top of each other until you have sufficiently created the illusion of the translucency of real skin. That is VERY important. It has to be broken up. You can't just leave a porcelain doll finish on a character make up (unless its a porcelain doll, lol ) and think that's finished. The look is created by layering many many thin washes of colour in organic patterns. Ve Neil would say to me on the show: “Your paint jobs are nice but they’re a little flat ...” well I learned how to fix that throughout the 2nd season on Face off. This was the most invaluable technique I took from the show. The way something is painted can destroy a beautiful sculpture, or save a mediocre one.

-You had the amazing opportunity of creating your own signature airbrush with a major company. What makes "RJ's The Shadow" different from other airbrushes?

RJ Haddy's The Shadow Airbrush

 Well first and foremost, Paasche is an American Made product. (SORRY EU! lol) but honestly that is very important to me, keeping people in jobs and manufacturing a high quality product at the same time. Secondly the price is VERY affordable at US $155 its FAR less than other brands of the same quality. Third point it has a 3 year warranty not the usual 2 year warranty. About specific stats, the cup is smaller because I specifically asked for that. As I blow through colour quickly and want to move on to a new choice its much easier than emptying out the cup cleaning out the residue and when you are on Face OFF trust me, time to clean an airbrush is NOT available. We also have developed a special needle and tip for the gun that sprays at .32mm, which is in between the Talon airbrush standard of .25 (fine) and .38 (medium). This is a neat little bonus that the Shadow has over the other guns. The gun comes installed with that set at time of purchase but it also includes in the box a tip, needle, and cap for the size .25mm fine spray, if you wish to get down to finer details. All Talon Parts will interchange with the Shadow as well. So if you already own a Talon this is a perfect complementary gun to set up next to it. I set up three or four guns when I am working and have the quick change fitting on my hose and I just pop back and fourth between those guns.... its so much easier!

-Is there a kind or brand of paint/makeup you prefer to use in your airbrush?

European Body Art, the Endura line specifically. It's amazing and it paints anything! Skin, Silicone, Hair, Latex, Foam Appliances, Fabric. Its tough as nails but gentle on the skin. It's the best paint out there. I always cut it with 99% and thin it because its just a great highly pigmented paint.You can use it full strength if you want to but I prefer to thin it, you can essentially stretch a 1oz bottle into a 2 oz bottle so you definitely get your moneys worth!

Actor David Selby made up as Lincoln by RJ 

-We follow you on Facebook and Twitter, and we love to see how phenomenally busy you are. What future goal would you like to reach in your career?

I’d like to start producing and directing my own films more regularly.That's why “The Family Business” is going to really be a proving ground so to speak. We will definitely show the world what we can do here in West Virginia with a little drive, ambition, skill , and just plain ol stubbornness to not give up! :)

 

-Finally, going back to Face Off, is there an aspect to the show that is less apparent to the public, but that was important for you as you actually went through the experience?

I think definitely the one thing none of us realised or counted on was the fact that we would become such good friends and close through the experience. Now after seven seasons it's become like an exclusive fraternity/sorority where you all have a common background of having been through this “trial by fire” so to speak. That's been the biggest reward of it all as well! I'm incredibly close to several members ... Beki Ingram, David Greathouse, Roy Wooley, Nix Herrera, Frank Ippolito, Rod Maxwell , Jerry Macaluso, Scott Ramp, Brea Joseph and Athena Zhe who was crucial to my team in the season 2 final. And of course I cant forget my fellow finalists from season 2 Rayce Bird and Ian Cromer.... that's just to name a few. They are all wonderful. They have become wonderful confidants and friends because of the experience. The friends we’ve made at SYFY and the production company Mission Control ... the casting company Pittman Casting ... All amazing people and truly wonderful friends!

RJ's love for fun in his work and his unassuming, lovable character make him the makeup artist you would love to work with and the teacher you would die to learn from. We look forward to meeting him at one of his courses one day, and to reviewing "The Shadow" on these pages soon.

 

Airbrush Makeup Kit In-depth review: Graftobian GlamAire and Walk-Around System

Graftobian is one of three major American companies that have made theatrical, FX and professional beauty makeup available to the public at large. As far as airbrush makeup is concerned, what makes Graftobian unique among its competition is mainly one thing: their Glam Aire line has the widest range of foundation shades of any other makeup company, period. 

GlamAire 1 oz sizes and matching cremes

We are talking 58 colours divided in Warm, Neutral and Cool tones, plus six blushes (also divided by undertone) and 6 adjuster colours, totalling a staggering 70 shades. This color system was conceived in collaboration with Hollywood makeup artist Brad Look to be perfectly matched with Graftobian's celebrated High Definition Glamour Cremes, an excellent series of creme foundations that has become an industry standard. This means that not only you are going to find your perfectly matching tone, but you will also be able to integrate a cream product for that same colour, which is something you may want a need to do for a number of reason. For example, the less experienced airbrush user will be able to use the cream colors in areas where airbrushing can be problematic  (such and the sensitive  under eye area), or for effective spot concealing prior to airbrushing. The color range is so wide that it was used by Mary Erickson and Suzanne Patterson as the base for a multi brand foundation comparison chart in Gretchen Davis' seminal book  The Makeup Artist Handbook. 

Foundation: GlamAire in Prima Donna

The GlamAire range is water based. The formula is very smooth and finely pigmented, with a light texture that is buildable in sheer layers to achieve the desired coverage with a very natural effect. The finish is matte but not overly so, and does not feel nor look at all dry like some water based formulas tend to do, although of course it is always better to moisturize prior to application on naturally drier skin. GlamAire's durability is very good, it does not settle in creases and has a great resistance to transfer. The foundation shades come in 1 oz bottles, but an extensive range of .25 ounce samples can also be purchased if you wish to try it before you commit to larger sizes. Oh, and did I mention it lasts practically forever? A few months ago I accepted a challenge: Two hours to do a complete makeup on ten women (ages ranging from early 20's to late 50's) who had been selected for a historical costume parade. As I was in northern Italy, the women turned out to be all Caucasian of fair to medium complexion. There was zero time for colour matching, but they all turned out beautifully using just three GlamAire shades from the neutral/fair range. After doing ten different faces I thought I had used a lot of product, but then I looked at the bottles and they all still looked totally full! 

On a more technical note, the product does separate quickly and needs quite a bit of shaking after sitting idle, but I found that if you store the bottles laying flat, the pigment settles on a larger surface and mixing is much faster. The only thing I am not crazy about in regards to this product is the blessed screw caps that tend to make a mess every time you use them, so I hope they will honour my OCD and change them one day.

Graftobian WalkAround System

As I was saying in my review for the F/X Aire line, I purchased my HD Glamour Walk-Around™ Kit at Crc Makeup.Com, where the whole Graftobian product range is available. Eric Coffman, Graftobian's owner, shot a very exhaustive video on the contents of the kit, so i will just advise you to watch it here as I could not illustrate it better than he does. I personally enjoy the kit a lot. The design is very compact and it feels even more powerful than its maximum 26 PSI output. The pressure can be adjusted right from the valve via a tiny knob. This takes a little practice if you are not used to it, but some end up preferring this way of controlling the output for its immediate proximity to the hands. The detachable battery works beautifully and the unit performs exactly the same when on battery power. Finally, the airbrush is the very reliable and seemingly ubiquitous S35, an excellent airgun chosen by Graftobian and many a great brand, and that together with the strong pressure output makes the system compatible also with any kind of airbrush makeup available, including silicone based colours. Four different plug adaptors included in the kit will allow you to use it pretty much anywhere in the world.

Graftobian WalkAround System package

As Eric shows in the video, the HD Glamour package does come with a great lot of makeup, consisting in three sample packs of five shades each with matching creme colour palette (Cool#1 from the lightest of the pink undertone range, Warm#2 from the middle of the yellow undertone range, and Neutral#3 from the darkest of the neutral undertone range). This is a very generous bundle making up an excellent starter kit catering to all ethnicities. The Walk-Around Kit is also available in an F/X Aire package and a Student/Character package with different colour selections.